ls6 intake swap write up
01-30-2007, 05:27 PM
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ls6 intake swap write up
where should i start with this 
after doing some research and seeing numerous n/a 5.3's and 6L hp flatlineing around 5800 and slowly falling after 6k, i decided to take the plunge and do the ls6 intake swap. the ls6 intake seems to be a proven performed intake that pulls all the way to 6500 in modified engines (ei full boltons, cam, etc...)
stuff you will need to get the job done:
a nice set of various ratchets, sockets, wrenches, etc...
4" electric grinder. (grinding discs/ cutting discs)
fuel line disconnect tool
big 3 jaw puller
1.5 ft of 5/16" & 3/8" fuel line
1 5/16" & 1 3/8" barbed fuel line fitting
6 hose clamps for the hose sizes above
small diameter vacuume line
gallon anti freeze
parts for the job:
ls6 intake
ls1/ls6 intake bolts (can't use the truck ones, they are too short)
97/98 vette fuel rail (for 99 to 03 trucks) or 98 to 02 f body fuel rail (04 & up)
ls1/ls6 style injectors (i chose 28.8#'s b/c i needed bigger ones already)
ls1/ls6 injector pigtails summit part no. MSD-2400
ls1/ls6 water pump
ls1/ls6 map sensor
custom idler pulley relocation bracket (haven't made one yet)
bout to get started
removed the truck intake. alternator and p/s bracket removed also.
the fuel rail feed and return line will not clear the coil packs.
action: bend the lines upward to where there is enough clearance
notice how the fuel rail lines clear the coils
the coolant hard line nipple, needs to be bent out to clear the intake also
alternator and p/s bracket has to be cut in order to clear the throttle body since the ls6 intake sits alot lower than the truck one
the bottom of the tb needs to be grinded some in order to clear the top of the water pump.
new injector pigtails wired up. plug the vacuum line from the valve cover to the front passenger side nip on the intake. fuel pressure regulator line goes to small nip in back of the intake.
pcv line goes to the small nip in the back of the intake also. barbed fuel line fittings are used to connect the fuel lines. evap sensor tucked behind the alternator (use a vacuum line to connect it to the front drivers side nip on the intake)
final product. well not really since i have no welding machine/cutter to fab up the idler relocation bracket. driving around with 275/45/20's and no p/s sucks
once i get one made up and put on the truck, i'll post up some pics of it. in the mean time yall can check out kano's write up for pics of the bracket.
if you see anything out of place or think more stuff needs to be added, just put in your input.
mods, feel free to add/move this to how to's if it's good enough.
vids:
engine idle
exaust idle/rev
Enjoy
after doing some research and seeing numerous n/a 5.3's and 6L hp flatlineing around 5800 and slowly falling after 6k, i decided to take the plunge and do the ls6 intake swap. the ls6 intake seems to be a proven performed intake that pulls all the way to 6500 in modified engines (ei full boltons, cam, etc...)
stuff you will need to get the job done:
a nice set of various ratchets, sockets, wrenches, etc...
4" electric grinder. (grinding discs/ cutting discs)
fuel line disconnect tool
big 3 jaw puller
1.5 ft of 5/16" & 3/8" fuel line
1 5/16" & 1 3/8" barbed fuel line fitting
6 hose clamps for the hose sizes above
small diameter vacuume line
gallon anti freeze
parts for the job:
ls6 intake
ls1/ls6 intake bolts (can't use the truck ones, they are too short)
97/98 vette fuel rail (for 99 to 03 trucks) or 98 to 02 f body fuel rail (04 & up)
ls1/ls6 style injectors (i chose 28.8#'s b/c i needed bigger ones already)
ls1/ls6 injector pigtails summit part no. MSD-2400
ls1/ls6 water pump
ls1/ls6 map sensor
custom idler pulley relocation bracket (haven't made one yet)
bout to get started
removed the truck intake. alternator and p/s bracket removed also.
the fuel rail feed and return line will not clear the coil packs.
action: bend the lines upward to where there is enough clearance
notice how the fuel rail lines clear the coils
the coolant hard line nipple, needs to be bent out to clear the intake also
alternator and p/s bracket has to be cut in order to clear the throttle body since the ls6 intake sits alot lower than the truck one
the bottom of the tb needs to be grinded some in order to clear the top of the water pump.
new injector pigtails wired up. plug the vacuum line from the valve cover to the front passenger side nip on the intake. fuel pressure regulator line goes to small nip in back of the intake.
pcv line goes to the small nip in the back of the intake also. barbed fuel line fittings are used to connect the fuel lines. evap sensor tucked behind the alternator (use a vacuum line to connect it to the front drivers side nip on the intake)
final product. well not really since i have no welding machine/cutter to fab up the idler relocation bracket. driving around with 275/45/20's and no p/s sucks
once i get one made up and put on the truck, i'll post up some pics of it. in the mean time yall can check out kano's write up for pics of the bracket. if you see anything out of place or think more stuff needs to be added, just put in your input.
mods, feel free to add/move this to how to's if it's good enough.
vids:
engine idle
exaust idle/rev
Enjoy
Last edited by bluecajun5.3; 01-30-2007 at 05:37 PM.
01-30-2007, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dirt_track_racer_81
good job lance..nice to see ya get it going again..you got any wot runs yet?
Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Why didnt you use the speartech bracket?
Originally Posted by 04BlackGmc
feeel any differenet?
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01-30-2007, 09:30 PM
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About the injectors. I have the 8.1's (31# I think) and am still running about 90% IDC I think. is there any way to use the truck style injectors with the LS1/LS6 intake?