Pics, some info on the BOSCH 044 Intank pump
11-09-2008, 08:21 PM
#1
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Pics, some info on the BOSCH 044 Intank pump
Swap. There was quite a bit of the bucket that had to be modified, along with the stainless legs in the bucket, as you can see the new pump is HUGE compared to the stocker. Make sure that all the parts that were cut are clean, remove all the excess plastic off thats left after cutting. I used a pencil grinder to do it, but a dremil tool will work fine. I might have went a lil further then most will do, as I used stainless bolts, so there wouldn't be a chance of it leaking, for the hot wire, ground coming through the top of the bucket hat/cap.. since it was 13 5/8 to the bottom of the tank, the legs need a inch cut off of them so the whole unit would compress and fit in the tank. I also re reflaired the ends on the legs. As you can see the new sock sits about 2 inches lower then the stock one, so the float had to be bent down that much, so you could still get a accurate reading. Now for making a new fuel tube. I decided to go with 3/8 efi fuel line, a AN fitting with a 3/8s nipple, lol nipple to take the place of the check. It has to be for fuel injection, other wise reg gas line will blow apart, under the pressure. I used stainless hose clamps on the top and bottom, had to notch a groove in the cap in order to tighten it up. In order to get tline the right length, you have to have the pump in the bucket, togther to do it. I simply compressed the bucket, to a measurement from the base of the fitting to the base of the tube neck on the cap.. It turned out pretty good. As you can see the pos,neg post is a tight squeeze, the plug that is on the wire harness in the truck needed to be trimmed at the lock in order to clear the nut on top of the hat/cap. The fuel lines are pretty much simple, only go on one way.. Other then time consuming, it is not as bad as I intended, cost me a total of about 270 bucks... The hot wire from the fuse box I tucked it behind the original harness, retaped it, to appear factory, as it does.. Hope this helps out some people, to get a idea of what there getting into.. The longest part of the swap was modding the bucket, alot of material has to come out for sure, but after it was done, it fits nice and snug, works perfect, solved my fuel problem... Make sure the tank is empty, you have a few extra hands around to drop it,put it back, it makes things much nicer, ohh ya don't forget cold beer LOL
MIGHT WANT TO STICKY THIS
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This is the wire that needs to be jumped to the relay
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Used the post for the pos(hot) wire, it is direct from the batt.
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John
MIGHT WANT TO STICKY THIS
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[/IMG]This is the wire that needs to be jumped to the relay
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[/IMG]Used the post for the pos(hot) wire, it is direct from the batt.
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[/IMG]John
Last edited by Mangled03gmc; 07-31-2012 at 12:15 AM.
11-09-2008, 09:50 PM
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I just used a flaring tool, yah I forgot to add, make sure you put the springs back in the bucket.. MIne only had 2 springs thow
Yah nati light is the **** babyJohn
11-15-2008, 11:34 AM
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can you clear some things up for me? why did you jump the relay wire? is the stock wiring not enough to hadle the load of the bosch pumps? Not to jack your thread or anything but here are some pics of my bosch 040 pump install. Maybe it will ad to the info available to everyone since I could really not find anything.
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11-15-2008, 11:54 AM
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There is a few that is running it/them on stock wiring, but I did't want to go threw the trouble of dropping the tank, then have to do it again. It is alot of draw, on the stock wires, not that they can't do it, but I didn't want to risk it. The relay was jumped to the added relay, so that a bigger wire could be run to power the pump.
John
John
