So I removed the solenoid thinking it was a source of some of the oil issues I was having and took it for a test ride.
It ran well at low boost and also on high boost too. actually felt stronger than before, anyways...
After a 30-80mph run on high boost I headed for home to check all my connections again and put it to bed for the night. I'm coming up the street to my house and I smell OIL real bad!!
I pulled into the drive and popped the hood, OIL everwhere on the passenger side?!?!? I just got done cleaning all the old oil off the bitch and now its soaked worse than before.
It looks like the oil fill cap tried to come off!! I had it safety wired to the fill tube via a hose clamp and some safety wire.
It also looks like the whole fill tube was popping up as well?!?!?!?
This seems to be where the majority of the oil was coming from.
I capped the line that used to go to the TB to reburn crank fumes too.
DAMMMMMM.

Could this be the Hobbs switch failing??
There is no solenoid so it can't be that.
I left the ground wire that used to go to the solenoid fastened to a ground on the valve cover, could it be that? Maybe creating a ground loop f-ing up the system??
I am at a loss on this. I am starting to get very discouraged on all the little issues with this oil crap!!
Anyone who can provide any help please post up, I have to drive this thing to work in the morning.

 

the ground wire on your valve cover is doing nothing at all. it is already grounded and needs to be connected to the little stud on the solenoid valve. Ive been through your same problem for a long time till i found the simple solution i kept over looking!

 

I tested the Hobbs switch and it does activate the return pump into high speed mode so that's not it, didn't think it was but still wanted to know if the pump was kicking into high.
I am at a loss.

 

please tell me you have the solenoid valve grounded so we can eliminate this prob.

 

how about a picture of your switch valve on your engine.

 

I removed the solenoid because I thought it may have been a problem spot. Not opening and venting crank pressure properly.
The ground is just a ground to ground wire right now.
I just didn't want to cut it or tape it up if I needed to put it back the way it was before.
Vanillagorrila eliminated his and it works good for him.
Maybe the lines I have going to my catch can do not have enough flow to vent properly??
They are about a 3'16" hole and the one off the stock valvecover location is about 1/4". Maybe I just need more flow to vent all the built up pressure.

To say again, I also capped my TB return to burn spent gases.

 

No pics tonite sorry, left my cam at work.
My ground wire is blue and the wires to the hobbs switch are red and light brown. I know they are different than the wires in the kits instructions, I remember it being that way doing the install.
I may be putting the solenoid back on if I can't get it to work this way.
Guess I'll have to keep my foot out of it until I get this rectified.
Just don't understand why it worked before and why this now when there is no slenoid to screw up the whole thing, or the fact that there are no restrictions in the system now compared to before.

The main ground wire has a solid connection, even though it is not hooked to the solenoid because its not there anymore.

TIMZ...
You have your custom billet cap threaded right into your valve cover right? How does the filler tube come out?? I tried to unscrew it like the cap and no dice, I even tried pulling straight up on it and it does not budge, just comes up a little toward the drivers side and shows the thick o-ring under the flange.

 

What kind of PCV valve do you have? I have the check valve type. If you do not have the check valve type, then I would think eliminating the solenoid would lead to problems like you've encountered. You should have a catch can at least, but even then I think you'll have to empty it a lot.

I can't remember exactly how I did the wiring, but my solenoid isn't actually off the truck. I did keep the hobbs switch hooked up, but if I remember correctly I just disconnected the solenoid ground. I then plugged the line that comes off the end of the hobbs and the breather is right off the valve cover. My solenoid wasn't working though. I really don't think it ever did. No matter where I grounded it, it NEVER worked right. My dipstick tube would blow out all the time and my breather was never dirty. Now the breather has a little oil on it, but it has never leaked past it.

 

Well my breather is a leaking sive of oil puking diaster!!
I really need to know how your wiring is hooked up.
You say the solenoid is still on your truck, just not hooked to any crankcase lines, but still grounded?
What is your hobbs switch getting the pressure from so it triggers the oil return pump to go ointo high speed mode?
If you have a line going into the hobbs switch, where is it coming from?
Also if you have the line coming right off the valve cover just venting to a filter is it suppying the hobbs switch a pressure signal through some type of t-fitting?
I know, allot of questions, but I need to get this fixed so I can drive like a maniac again!!! I'm starting to go through withdrawls already.
The ride to work was hell always watching the boost gauge and keeping it out of the FUN ZONE!!

I'm thinking that the hobbs switch can get a pressure signal from the maifold too if it just needs to know that there is more than 1psi of pressure, maybe this is a no-no and could damage the hobbs switch.

 

I'll get you some pics tonight.