Just my opinion, I would never put 3.42s. 6.0 just dont make enough power below 2000 rpms to cruise as I like.

 

Not trying to argue, but they put 3.23s and 3.42s behind 4.8s and 5.3s...
Do they make more power below 2000 rpm?:nunchuk1:

 

So let me get this straight.....

You plan to spend $500 swapping to some lower gears in order to save money and sacrifice performance?

So with gas at around $2.50 that equates to about 200 gallons of gas.

Even if you get 3 mpg better(which you aren't going to), and normally average about 15 mpg. You're going to have to drive 15000 miles just to break even. If you only gain 1.5 mpg it's going to take you 30,000 miles before you start saving anything.

I know you said to help with towing, but it's only going to hurt you when towing.

 

I'm a little confused about the purpose of the truck. First you say you purchased it to tow, then you say it will be your daily driver. Do you tow every day?

If you don't, please tell us the breakdown (percentages) of how much of the time you will be DD the truck, and how much time will be spent towing.

 

They do, and it is an absolutely joke. Cruising on the highway with the 6.0, 3.42s, and 31" tires was miserable. But that's just my take on it.

 

You guys make good arguments. Let me clarify.

I purchased it to tow because my wife wanted a 6000 lb camper. My DD truck was a 4.7L Dakota. It had a 6000 lb tow rating, but I'm not big on pushing the limits on that stuff. It was great for driving around but the brakes and engine would be outmatched when doubling the total weight. It lacked torque and would be outweighed by the camper.

I wanted a larger V-8 and more importantly bigger brakes. I went w a 2500 because I wanted the bigger brakes, springs, and 6.0 with a stick (a 1500 with a 4.8 and stick wouldn't be much better than the Dak - I had one in 04).

Use: It will need to pull the 6000 lb camper a few times a year. But much more frequently it will be empty, driving around town. Or hauling a light load like kids 4 wheelers up to the family farm ~2 hours up the interstate.

If I were pulling 10,000 lbs, I could see needing the 6.0 at 3000 rpm while cruising down the interstate. But with only 6000, I think i won't need to be spinning it so high.

Make no mistake, this mod would not be purely for practicality. It, like most mods would just be to make it more to my tastes.

 

Why is it cruising at 3000 rpm?

 

What was it doing that was bothersome? Down shifting a lot?

You had a 6.0 / 3.42 / 31" tire combo already? Was the 6.0 stock?

Like I mentioned earlier in the tread, my father in law has a 2500 Dodge w a 5.7 Hemi, 3.5X gears, and 31" tires (and a NV4500). It drives great and pulls well, loaded and empty.

I'm assuming the 6.0 should be similar in power to the 5.7 Hemi. Do you disagree?

 

Its cruising at 3166 rpm at 70 in 4th gear pulling the camper. My understanding is you are not supposed to pull in 5th. Though to be honest I did pull in 5th and it seemed fine (power wise). I would, however, prefer not to strain the OD and have issues. With the 3.42s I could stay in the stronger 4th gear and turn similar RPMs to the 4.10s in 5th.

Plus then when I don't have a significant load I can combine the 3.42s and OD gear to get under 2000 rpm cruising speed.

 

Mine was a high comp 6.0 with mods. And yes I had it already, which is why I went with 4.10s. The 3.42s were miserable on the highway. Cruising at 60mph was 1500 rpms. Very sloppy pedal and it just didn't "go" like I wanted to when I pushed the pedal down. Now with the 4.10s it cruses at 2000 @ 65 which is perfect. Much more responsive, and much better to drive. Gas mileage only went down 2 mpg. No big deal. It's still 20 on the highway. I'm actually looking forward to the .75OD of the 4l80e which will take the revs up even a little more.