1994 Blazer Diesel
11-23-2011, 08:48 PM
#21
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Just picked up a line on a set of Baja ATZs... I hope theres as much tread on them as he claims!
As for better ride... I guess compared to my GTO... all things are relative. LOL
Speaking of GTO, I realized the truck made it into the background of this pic. I TOLD you guys the paint was hideous!
As for better ride... I guess compared to my GTO... all things are relative. LOL
Speaking of GTO, I realized the truck made it into the background of this pic. I TOLD you guys the paint was hideous!
Last edited by Wagonbacker9; 11-23-2011 at 08:53 PM.
11-24-2011, 11:50 AM
#23
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haha thanks. And yeah, I have been fighting the urge to just rattle can it black for a few weeks now. It was much worse when the hood was half peeled paint and surface rust, thankfully I found a local guy parting out.
11-24-2011, 06:46 PM
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Question guys: will a 305/70/16 clear?
Edit: NVM... They will. If I can't turn them to full-lock, not a big deal, the turning radius on this truck is absurdly tight anyway.
Now I've got 2 sets of CL tires I need to evaluate:
285/75/16 Baja ATZ
305/70/16 BFG All-Terrain TA
Same asking price, the BFGs are a LOT closer. I think its going to come down to whichever has better tread.
Edit: NVM... They will. If I can't turn them to full-lock, not a big deal, the turning radius on this truck is absurdly tight anyway.
Now I've got 2 sets of CL tires I need to evaluate:
285/75/16 Baja ATZ
305/70/16 BFG All-Terrain TA
Same asking price, the BFGs are a LOT closer. I think its going to come down to whichever has better tread.
Last edited by Wagonbacker9; 11-24-2011 at 06:53 PM.
01-02-2012, 04:17 PM
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AND I popped the diff on the way back from picking up the tires. Irony? Sounded like a jackhammer under the truck by the time I got home.
I was able to limp it home. Just disconnected the rear driveshaft (thinking maybe I could FWD it for a couple days (Don't want to take my summer car out seeing as it FINALLY snowed for the first time here yesterday), and now it clunks in reverse, and when I try to go forward, it completely locks up the rear end.
Need a 10 bolt 3.73, I believe a local Buick GN guru is going to help me rebuild it.
I was able to limp it home. Just disconnected the rear driveshaft (thinking maybe I could FWD it for a couple days (Don't want to take my summer car out seeing as it FINALLY snowed for the first time here yesterday), and now it clunks in reverse, and when I try to go forward, it completely locks up the rear end.
Need a 10 bolt 3.73, I believe a local Buick GN guru is going to help me rebuild it.
01-09-2012, 12:54 AM
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So I found a guy on CL selling a axle set of 3.73 axles out of an 89 2500LD (14 bolt SF 6 lug rear with matching front), and he was also parting out a 95 1500 with a 10 bolt in 3.73. He offered me the 10 bolt for 150 or the 14 bolt set for 400, I opted for the 10 bolt.
Well, he got drunk the night before and didn't pull it, so I got the 14 bolt with (reportedly) 75K on it this morning for $200. Paid 35 for a 2" lift block kit and Ubolts, bought 2 brake lines (advanced auto parts has a weird dead space with no threads that wouldn't thread into the T connector, Autozone's line worked great) and some brake fluid.
So for $250, I now have my truck working first of all, and even better, its got a light lift, and a LOT stronger rear. Pinion angles and yoke slip looked good to my untrained eye.
I will say though, that no human (especially a 6'3 170 lb scrawny *** dude like myself) should be moving a 14 bolt around by himself. I can handle the 10 bolt, but the 14 was tough. especially getting it out of the back of the Odyssey without fing up grandma's van! I'm hurting (I work in an office so I don't do this daily, I know, office hands FTL), but I got it done. My buddy showed up with a trans jack after his kid woke up, about 3 hrs after I had it bolted in. Some banged up knuckles, dropped a tire on my ankle and a backing plate gave my pinky toe a glancing blow.. Other damage included a bleeder that snapped off on me, so I currently have very spongy brakes (opposite side from the line I changed thank goodness) and no e-brake... as I did NOT have the patience to screw with that stupid clip, and one of the rotors was frozen on (didn't turn or anything until 6.5l of diesel fury was unleashed on it). It goes, it stops, and in between it doesn't make any weird noises (aside from the vibration and hum caused by my new bigger Mickey Thompson MTZ's). And actually with the new wheels on it I hate the paint a LOT less.
This is actually from before I swapped the rear diff, but it was dark after, so, this is all you get. Rear end is now up 2" plus whatever the 14 bolt over the 10 bolt adds (I assume not much)
Its got a rake for now. Torsion bars will need to be run up a tad. And before anyone says it, yes, she leaks a little oil. But at 18 years and 203K miles, I forgive her for soiling my otherwise pristine driveway, as long as she gets me to work.
OH... and I discovered my 2 middle right leaves are broken right behind the spring perch... looks like the zero rate is keeping things from sagging too bad though, as the right is only 3/4" lower
Well, he got drunk the night before and didn't pull it, so I got the 14 bolt with (reportedly) 75K on it this morning for $200. Paid 35 for a 2" lift block kit and Ubolts, bought 2 brake lines (advanced auto parts has a weird dead space with no threads that wouldn't thread into the T connector, Autozone's line worked great) and some brake fluid.
So for $250, I now have my truck working first of all, and even better, its got a light lift, and a LOT stronger rear. Pinion angles and yoke slip looked good to my untrained eye.
I will say though, that no human (especially a 6'3 170 lb scrawny *** dude like myself) should be moving a 14 bolt around by himself. I can handle the 10 bolt, but the 14 was tough. especially getting it out of the back of the Odyssey without fing up grandma's van! I'm hurting (I work in an office so I don't do this daily, I know, office hands FTL), but I got it done. My buddy showed up with a trans jack after his kid woke up, about 3 hrs after I had it bolted in. Some banged up knuckles, dropped a tire on my ankle and a backing plate gave my pinky toe a glancing blow.. Other damage included a bleeder that snapped off on me, so I currently have very spongy brakes (opposite side from the line I changed thank goodness) and no e-brake... as I did NOT have the patience to screw with that stupid clip, and one of the rotors was frozen on (didn't turn or anything until 6.5l of diesel fury was unleashed on it). It goes, it stops, and in between it doesn't make any weird noises (aside from the vibration and hum caused by my new bigger Mickey Thompson MTZ's). And actually with the new wheels on it I hate the paint a LOT less.
This is actually from before I swapped the rear diff, but it was dark after, so, this is all you get. Rear end is now up 2" plus whatever the 14 bolt over the 10 bolt adds (I assume not much)
Its got a rake for now. Torsion bars will need to be run up a tad. And before anyone says it, yes, she leaks a little oil. But at 18 years and 203K miles, I forgive her for soiling my otherwise pristine driveway, as long as she gets me to work.
OH... and I discovered my 2 middle right leaves are broken right behind the spring perch... looks like the zero rate is keeping things from sagging too bad though, as the right is only 3/4" lower
Last edited by Wagonbacker9; 01-09-2012 at 01:02 AM.
01-09-2012, 11:43 AM
#29
ah, an old 6.5..not too much performance can be done to them. head gaskets are notorious for failing. you could do a early pump swap and install a mechanical pump. alot more reliable and could turn it up a little easier and make a few more ponies. check out heathdiesel.com..they specialize in 6.5 performance.
01-09-2012, 01:21 PM
#30
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90% of this truck's duty is to make the 8 mile commute to and from work, so engine upgrades are unnecessary, the 6.5 does fine. This one has been well cared for. The brake fluid looked great, there was anti-seize on the wheel studs, PMD relocated... fairly obvious that it was maintained. So far all its needed from me was an alternator and an axle. So for about the next $300 of repairs or so, I'm still ahead on my purchase price. lol