So i got my 383 running now. Now i'm having issues with my carb. I'm a newb when it comes to all this carb stuff so if i ask something stupid just bear with me. So i have an edelbrock 750 carb with electric choke model 1411. I've heard these are tuned fairly lean. I have an air fuel ratio gauge, and it reads pretty much in the middle at idle, but when the motor is under a load and i take off it goes all the way on the lean side of the gauge. I've adjusted the carb at idle and cant get it to richen at all at idle (compared to the gauge). Engine flutters a little as if its not getting enough fuel during accelleration whether from a deal stop or from cruising at about 2000 and giving it half throttle. I've checked for vacum leaks and there are none. Also i know my timing is not perfect (plan on getting that set soon), but it does idle real well.

So i guess what i need to know is how accurate is the airfuel gauge. Its not a wide band one, and its running off the factory o2 sensor. Gauge is an autometer phantom. Also, i obviously need to rejet the carb (unless any of you have any other idea why it would be running lean), so if i do need to rejet it how do i know exactly which jets i need? do i need to get a calibration kit with several jets and metering rods?

 

I would get a windband to tune with....stock o2s stink for modified engines IMO.

Next thing....once you get the wideband or learn how to read your plugs, and you are still lean, I would reget it. You would need a Jet kit that you can get from summit or jegs. It should have jets and metering rods in it. Not hard at all do to...just make sure you don't drop anything into the holes.

 

thanks for the reply ill probably be ordering a wideband here soon. I know its running really lean down low with the primaries because it stutters when taking off and when the secondaries kit in you can deffinately feel it, although its still a little lean it really picks up and goes once they kick in. I'm going to get my timing dialed in better this week and order a calibration kit for my carb. Way i see it is even with this air fuel gauge, if it says its lean, im sure its lean probably really lean, but ill def pick up a wideband soon. Thanks for the info.

Also realized i used my rocker arms that weren't self aligning so i bent a pushrod, changed those out to the self aligning ones and now the motor runs much much better.

Funny thing is a lot of people were telling me not to go with a 750 (said it was probably too much for my motor) turns out now its not enough, well what do you know? haha cant wait to get this thing tuned and running right i can tell it has so much potential

 

Did you have guideplates on with the non-self-aligning....if so...did you take them off with the self aligning rockers?

Most 383s need a 750...however, Edelbrocks are known for being a pain to jet and get right...they usually come lean. I perfer Holley 750s.

 

no im running vortec heads that have been built a little and they don't have guide plates. its a wonder all of the rocker arms didnt come off, but i put on the self aligning rockers and now everything is great. motor runs a LOT better. drove it around almost all night and didnt been another pushrod. I had assumed wrong and assumed they didnt require guide plates with those push rods because something about the heads keeps them lined up (don't think its guide plates tho so idk). But anyway, i swapped them out and now its all good. Just a stupid mistake on my part.

Yea i've read about the edelbrocks being lean out of the box. I'm going to order a calibration kit this week and jet it up. I got my timing set right now and its still really lean so hopefully jetting up my primaries will fix it. Down low its real studdery but ones the secondaries kick it that sucker flies and the air fuel ratio gauge is in the middle during hard accelleration.

I've heard from some people they are hard to jet and some people they're not, and this is my first carb ive messed with but i think i can figure it out and get it right. Also i've read about my carb (its the 1411 edel 750) is lean out of the box compared to the 1406 (manual choke model 750). I wanted electric choke so i went with the 1411 and i'm planning on changing the jets to match the 1406 and seeing if that fixes it, because the only difference between the two other than electric and manual choke are the primary jets are one stage bigger in the 1406, all the metering rods, springs, and secondaries are the same.

I'll keep everyone posted once i get the calibration kit and let you know if that fixes it. Main reason i went with edelbrock is because i'm running there performer intake so i got the carb to match. But all seems good so far and this thing has tons of power.

 

planning on ordering my calibration kit this week. Got to get a curve kit for the dissy too. Set my timing from idle but it doesn't advance enough at higher RPMS. Don't want to advance it anymore than what it is at idle because it idles real smooth now and drives better, just a little less power it seems especially up high. But has GREAT throttle response, but you can tell its not pulling as hard at say 4000 RPMS as it was when it was too advance down low. Anyway ill let you know what else i figure out. Don't have too much time to work on it as much cause i'm finishing my last semester at school this summer and working full time but ill try and keep everyone posted. Heres a few pics of my motor since i got it put in along with my gauge setup inside the truck. Thanks for everyones help.











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nice... i still have the stock tbi with a few mods. its so dependable i don't want to mess with it, but the moment i have a hiccup, i'm getting a 383 short block to put my vortec heads on that i bought a few months ago.

 

cool man vortec heads seem to be workin great supposedly you can get 400+ hp out of them with a 383 bottom end and the right bolt ons, still wanna get mine dynoed to see how much i got for sure. Be sure to watch it tho because if your cam is too big like more than .460 lift (correct me if im wrong) then you have to get your valve guides machined. I had mine machined from a guy i bought them from on ebay for free and and also pocket ported them and did a 3 angle valve job. Heads were about 320 i beleive with shipping so it turned out to be a good deal. My cam only had like .490 lift so he didn't have to maching much but don't forget it or it could be a big headache later on.

 

Your lift needs to be more than .475 for screw in studs but your valve guides should be fine with the proper springs suited for your camshaft. The press in studs are suited for high lift applications.

Depending on your camshaft and compression, you can get 400hp from a 383 vortec setup.

I'm running a 383 AFR headed engine in my 1990.

 

I know you guys probably don't care about MPGs, but what type of mileage are you getting from your 383s?