LS1 / 4L80E in a 63 Pick up (Pics and build up thread)
I'm looking forward to watching the build come along.
11-16-2006, 03:51 PM
#13
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Blownchevy,
I saw your thread last night before going to bed.. You got that truck at a great price.. I thought about having mine stock height and stomping some *** on the street, but the truck was already lowered. Our frames / front ends should be very similar so I'd be glad to help you where I can..
Places I think we might have common ground are:
Fuel System (due to the power we both want to make)
Suspension
Actual placement of motor / Tranny (Fabing my own mounts, waiting on the new plasma cutter to come in)
PCM and harness
Guages
Fuel System
The plan on the fuel system can go 2 ways. Either I am going to
A) pull the sending unit out of the stock tank, cut the end off of it, drill a bigger hole and bolt in a bulk fitting, 90* it on the inside with a new line and sock, 90* on the outside with -8 going up front to the rails
B) Put a 20ga cell in the back of the bed in front of the fabbed tow hitch running -8 up to the front.
Regardless of the how I do the tank, I am running:
-8 out of the tank
Splitting to two -6 lines
Dual -6 40 micron filters
Dual External Walbro’s
Back in to a single -8
Up to a Aeromotive adjustable regulator
-6 return
Suspension
Rear suspension
Simple adjustable coil overs (Hals or maybe the new Alston shock)
New cross member
Probably off the shelf rear shock brackets
Custom bracket for the bags that keeps a gap between one bracket end and the back when the bag has little to no air in it. The bags will only be used for towing.
Front suspension will get regular coils with adjustable shock
Motor Placememnt
I’m trying to move the motor back as far as possible and as low as possible. With it about 1 inch from the deep portion of the firewall I can still pull valve covers, get to the plugs and exhaust bolts on the heads.
Using a truck oils pan, the front of the pan is 1 inch off the cross member right now. I think the motor would sit higher with an F-body pan. The back of the pan is about level with the bottom of the cross member. This portion would sit higher with an F-body pan.
Motor has about a 2* slope right now (adjusting the jack) but once I figure out the pinion angle on the rear I will tilt the tailshaft accordingly.
The C5 Z06 manifold fit in real nice.. There is about ¼ - ½ inch on each side by the collector. I am going to grind that area of the frame just incase the motor torques over enough to contact it. They are still tucked and even with the truck as low as it is, there is a ton of clearance with them.
PCM
For the PCM I have a speartech harness that was once in John B’s car (LS1tech) when he was running and LS1/M6. It was already extended to run the PCM inside the cab of his car. I still need to figure out exactly where that is going. Maybe next to the heater inside (you have an external firewall heater so it might work real nice inside for you).
Guages
My truck came with gauges not lights
I’ll plum a hard line in for the oil
Use a standard sensor for the water
Voltage is cake
Speedo will be the laptop on the passenger seat
Exhaust
I just helped a buddy put together my old 63 sheet metal on a 62 frame (the other mix of my truck 62 sheet metal and 63 frame) It had long tube headers and a 3” X-pipe. Truck is at stock height but, even lowered 5/7 I think it would have plenty of ground clearance with that 3” exhaust.
Hope that helps some
I saw your thread last night before going to bed.. You got that truck at a great price.. I thought about having mine stock height and stomping some *** on the street, but the truck was already lowered. Our frames / front ends should be very similar so I'd be glad to help you where I can..
Places I think we might have common ground are:
Fuel System (due to the power we both want to make)
Suspension
Actual placement of motor / Tranny (Fabing my own mounts, waiting on the new plasma cutter to come in)
PCM and harness
Guages
Fuel System
The plan on the fuel system can go 2 ways. Either I am going to
A) pull the sending unit out of the stock tank, cut the end off of it, drill a bigger hole and bolt in a bulk fitting, 90* it on the inside with a new line and sock, 90* on the outside with -8 going up front to the rails
B) Put a 20ga cell in the back of the bed in front of the fabbed tow hitch running -8 up to the front.
Regardless of the how I do the tank, I am running:
-8 out of the tank
Splitting to two -6 lines
Dual -6 40 micron filters
Dual External Walbro’s
Back in to a single -8
Up to a Aeromotive adjustable regulator
-6 return
Suspension
Rear suspension
Simple adjustable coil overs (Hals or maybe the new Alston shock)
New cross member
Probably off the shelf rear shock brackets
Custom bracket for the bags that keeps a gap between one bracket end and the back when the bag has little to no air in it. The bags will only be used for towing.
Front suspension will get regular coils with adjustable shock
Motor Placememnt
I’m trying to move the motor back as far as possible and as low as possible. With it about 1 inch from the deep portion of the firewall I can still pull valve covers, get to the plugs and exhaust bolts on the heads.
Using a truck oils pan, the front of the pan is 1 inch off the cross member right now. I think the motor would sit higher with an F-body pan. The back of the pan is about level with the bottom of the cross member. This portion would sit higher with an F-body pan.
Motor has about a 2* slope right now (adjusting the jack) but once I figure out the pinion angle on the rear I will tilt the tailshaft accordingly.
The C5 Z06 manifold fit in real nice.. There is about ¼ - ½ inch on each side by the collector. I am going to grind that area of the frame just incase the motor torques over enough to contact it. They are still tucked and even with the truck as low as it is, there is a ton of clearance with them.
PCM
For the PCM I have a speartech harness that was once in John B’s car (LS1tech) when he was running and LS1/M6. It was already extended to run the PCM inside the cab of his car. I still need to figure out exactly where that is going. Maybe next to the heater inside (you have an external firewall heater so it might work real nice inside for you).
Guages
My truck came with gauges not lights
I’ll plum a hard line in for the oil
Use a standard sensor for the water
Voltage is cake
Speedo will be the laptop on the passenger seat
Exhaust
I just helped a buddy put together my old 63 sheet metal on a 62 frame (the other mix of my truck 62 sheet metal and 63 frame) It had long tube headers and a 3” X-pipe. Truck is at stock height but, even lowered 5/7 I think it would have plenty of ground clearance with that 3” exhaust.
Hope that helps some
11-30-2006, 11:18 AM
#20
Originally Posted by LIL SS
Blownchevy,
I saw your thread last night before going to bed.. You got that truck at a great price.. I thought about having mine stock height and stomping some *** on the street, but the truck was already lowered. Our frames / front ends should be very similar so I'd be glad to help you where I can..
Places I think we might have common ground are:
Fuel System (due to the power we both want to make)
Suspension
Actual placement of motor / Tranny (Fabing my own mounts, waiting on the new plasma cutter to come in)
PCM and harness
Guages
Fuel System
The plan on the fuel system can go 2 ways. Either I am going to
A) pull the sending unit out of the stock tank, cut the end off of it, drill a bigger hole and bolt in a bulk fitting, 90* it on the inside with a new line and sock, 90* on the outside with -8 going up front to the rails
B) Put a 20ga cell in the back of the bed in front of the fabbed tow hitch running -8 up to the front.
Regardless of the how I do the tank, I am running:
-8 out of the tank
Splitting to two -6 lines
Dual -6 40 micron filters
Dual External Walbro’s
Back in to a single -8
Up to a Aeromotive adjustable regulator
-6 return
Suspension
Rear suspension
Simple adjustable coil overs (Hals or maybe the new Alston shock)
New cross member
Probably off the shelf rear shock brackets
Custom bracket for the bags that keeps a gap between one bracket end and the back when the bag has little to no air in it. The bags will only be used for towing.
Front suspension will get regular coils with adjustable shock
Motor Placememnt
I’m trying to move the motor back as far as possible and as low as possible. With it about 1 inch from the deep portion of the firewall I can still pull valve covers, get to the plugs and exhaust bolts on the heads.
Using a truck oils pan, the front of the pan is 1 inch off the cross member right now. I think the motor would sit higher with an F-body pan. The back of the pan is about level with the bottom of the cross member. This portion would sit higher with an F-body pan.
Motor has about a 2* slope right now (adjusting the jack) but once I figure out the pinion angle on the rear I will tilt the tailshaft accordingly.
The C5 Z06 manifold fit in real nice.. There is about ¼ - ½ inch on each side by the collector. I am going to grind that area of the frame just incase the motor torques over enough to contact it. They are still tucked and even with the truck as low as it is, there is a ton of clearance with them.
PCM
For the PCM I have a speartech harness that was once in John B’s car (LS1tech) when he was running and LS1/M6. It was already extended to run the PCM inside the cab of his car. I still need to figure out exactly where that is going. Maybe next to the heater inside (you have an external firewall heater so it might work real nice inside for you).
Guages
My truck came with gauges not lights
I’ll plum a hard line in for the oil
Use a standard sensor for the water
Voltage is cake
Speedo will be the laptop on the passenger seat
Exhaust
I just helped a buddy put together my old 63 sheet metal on a 62 frame (the other mix of my truck 62 sheet metal and 63 frame) It had long tube headers and a 3” X-pipe. Truck is at stock height but, even lowered 5/7 I think it would have plenty of ground clearance with that 3” exhaust.
Hope that helps some
I saw your thread last night before going to bed.. You got that truck at a great price.. I thought about having mine stock height and stomping some *** on the street, but the truck was already lowered. Our frames / front ends should be very similar so I'd be glad to help you where I can..
Places I think we might have common ground are:
Fuel System (due to the power we both want to make)
Suspension
Actual placement of motor / Tranny (Fabing my own mounts, waiting on the new plasma cutter to come in)
PCM and harness
Guages
Fuel System
The plan on the fuel system can go 2 ways. Either I am going to
A) pull the sending unit out of the stock tank, cut the end off of it, drill a bigger hole and bolt in a bulk fitting, 90* it on the inside with a new line and sock, 90* on the outside with -8 going up front to the rails
B) Put a 20ga cell in the back of the bed in front of the fabbed tow hitch running -8 up to the front.
Regardless of the how I do the tank, I am running:
-8 out of the tank
Splitting to two -6 lines
Dual -6 40 micron filters
Dual External Walbro’s
Back in to a single -8
Up to a Aeromotive adjustable regulator
-6 return
Suspension
Rear suspension
Simple adjustable coil overs (Hals or maybe the new Alston shock)
New cross member
Probably off the shelf rear shock brackets
Custom bracket for the bags that keeps a gap between one bracket end and the back when the bag has little to no air in it. The bags will only be used for towing.
Front suspension will get regular coils with adjustable shock
Motor Placememnt
I’m trying to move the motor back as far as possible and as low as possible. With it about 1 inch from the deep portion of the firewall I can still pull valve covers, get to the plugs and exhaust bolts on the heads.
Using a truck oils pan, the front of the pan is 1 inch off the cross member right now. I think the motor would sit higher with an F-body pan. The back of the pan is about level with the bottom of the cross member. This portion would sit higher with an F-body pan.
Motor has about a 2* slope right now (adjusting the jack) but once I figure out the pinion angle on the rear I will tilt the tailshaft accordingly.
The C5 Z06 manifold fit in real nice.. There is about ¼ - ½ inch on each side by the collector. I am going to grind that area of the frame just incase the motor torques over enough to contact it. They are still tucked and even with the truck as low as it is, there is a ton of clearance with them.
PCM
For the PCM I have a speartech harness that was once in John B’s car (LS1tech) when he was running and LS1/M6. It was already extended to run the PCM inside the cab of his car. I still need to figure out exactly where that is going. Maybe next to the heater inside (you have an external firewall heater so it might work real nice inside for you).
Guages
My truck came with gauges not lights
I’ll plum a hard line in for the oil
Use a standard sensor for the water
Voltage is cake
Speedo will be the laptop on the passenger seat
Exhaust
I just helped a buddy put together my old 63 sheet metal on a 62 frame (the other mix of my truck 62 sheet metal and 63 frame) It had long tube headers and a 3” X-pipe. Truck is at stock height but, even lowered 5/7 I think it would have plenty of ground clearance with that 3” exhaust.
Hope that helps some
With the Turbo and the 6.0 I am sure I will need a pretty stout fuel system.