_zebra

iTrader: (5)

Bold strategy, Cotton - starting a new thread in the Dodge section that only gets 6-9 views a year
But whatever... I'm trying something new & wanting to run a gameplan by folks with at least a little bit of sense.

I absolutely hate relying on electronics (I know... "then why'd you buy a 2018 Dodge?") and prefer to manually actuate things more often so as to hopefully extend the life of the electronic actuators. That said, one thing that really peeves me is only having a lock cylinder on the driver's door.

One particular frustration is that Mama raised me with some respect that's stuck with me, and I therefore almost always open my wife's door before getting in... which (if I've locked the truck) either requires me to first get in my side, unlock her door, then get back out & walk around, then go all the way back to my door... or I use the clicker & needlessly also unlock the back doors & tailgate every time. This would be resolved by Dodge not cheaping out by removing the lock cylinder on the front passenger door like every vehicle had up until a few years ago.

Initial responses elsewhere called me an antiquated idiot for even thinking any vehicle in the last 20yrs has ever had a key in more than the driver's door... but over the past few months, I've not only confirmed the existence of late-model Dodge Rams with keyed passenger doors but also procured a few part numbers. Thing is, I ain't got confirmed parts or plans for a fully-matching, OEM-looking setup yet... and that's where y'all come in.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

It all boils down to convenience & trying to extend the life of my electrical components because anybody who's owned a power-optioned vehicle 10+ years knows that the actuators won't last all that long (every mechanical component has an average number of uses before failure), so since I plan to keep driving this truck until it disintegrates, I'd rather not have to unnecessarily operate the back door & tailgate locks to only open my wife's door because that equates to an eventual replacement of 4 actuators instead of 1. In 14yrs of owning my 99 GMC, the manual windows & locks never stopped working - boy do I miss them.

A few pertinent details about the truck for this project:
- 2018 BigHorn 2500
- body color door handles with chrome pull bars (no passive sensors)
- power locks with remote & alarm
- RFID keyed ignition (versus having a real key or push-button)... but the driver's door & tailgate do have a key cylinder for the little pop-out key (from the remote)


One person suggested the driver's door has an electronic provision that disables the alarm when I use the key, and if I didn't duplicate that to the passenger door, I'd still have to unlock her door with the clicker (defeating my intent) to prevent the alarm from sounding. Last month, I enlisted my wife for some help. I locked her in the truck using the clicker, set the alarm, and had her manually unlock & open the passenger door. Repeated the same for the driver's door.

My truck apparently don't care & never set the alarm off with either side.

Control measures were that I held the clicker outside ~10ft away to prevent any RFID proximity overrides to think the key was inside. I clicked 'lock' twice to set the alarm with all doors latched while she "stood" in the floorboards to keep weight off the occupant sensors in the seat bottoms (truck thinks nobody's inside). She manually lifted the lock pin (vs using the door buttons) to facilitate the same movement turning a key in the door would accomplish via the added lock cylinder linkage.

That said, what documentation or experience would give the impression that the driver's door had a special measure to ensure opening with a key didn't set off the alarm? Either that ain't the case, the passenger side already has the same, or my alarm's broken.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

Made more headway tonight after a few more phone calls.
I'd previously found three different front-right door latch assemblies for this truck (which also control lock actuation and door-open signals) but never could figure out the differences between them... until today. Sounds like the three door latch options match these configurations:

• 4589422AI (mine) = power locks + keyless entry (almost certain none had a keyed passenger door)
• 68079094AC = power locks without keyless entry (assumed rare & may've had keyed passenger door [doubtful])
• 68071848AC = manual locks (definitely rare, but I'd assume both doors were keyed)

If anybody has evidence to the contrary, PLEASE correct me. Otherwise, so long as my latch has a currently-unused spot to connect the key cylinder linkage (like the driver's side), I'm golden... if not, 68079094AC would be my back-up option to try.

Also found the OEM right-side door key cylinder common to a whole mess of Fiat vehicles but learned the assembly has to be pieced together, part by part (can't buy as a package)... but at least a dealership can use my VIN, ID, and proof of ownership to simply give me the key code so I can buy the correct tumblers to match my current door/tailgate without completely deconstructing one of those cylinders first. I'd just need:

• 68045150AA
• 55136554AA
• 5071155AA
• 5102456AA
• 5019605AA
• the tumblers to match my key code (mix of 4778117AB, 4778118AB, 4778119AB, and 4778120AB)
• a few 4778121

And then, it simply needs the connecting rod from the key to the latch (either 55372978AA[listed for manual & power locks] or 55397564AA[listed only for power locks]).

The hardest nut to crack is getting a matching door handle (Granite Crystal Metallic + chrome pull bar [1GH261AUAG]... except with a keyhole) because I'm fairly confident they were never made. You could only get chrome handles on the higher-trim trucks, and those higher trim levels automatically had power locks. It also seems all (or almost all) power lock trucks only had one keyed door (driver's). It took forever, but I did finally find the OEM keyed right door handle in textured black plastic (55112382AE - and proof to naysayers that unicorns exist), but it's seeming more and more certain I'll have to mod something - which gives me three options:

• Drill a key hole in my current handle (free option)
  • Janky-looking
  • Won't match the OEM bevel from the other side
  • Touching up the paint/clear (not free) will be obvious
  • I'll be annoyed every time I look at it
• Buy another driver's handle (1GH291AUAJ) & transfer my right door handle's latch mechanism over
  • All 09-22 door handles (left/right, front/rear, key cylinder or not) actually look to be cast from the same mold, and the difference is in whether or not they
    • drill a beveled hole over the key cylinder supporting structure
    • add a passive entry button/wiring
    • and which pair of hinge tabs they rivet the left- or right-side latch mechanism to so that the handle moves the linkage downwards when pulled
  • Simply drill out the riveted hinges, transfer the hardware, and replace hinge pin with a bolt/nut of same size
• Same as option two, except with a plain GCM handle (1GH21LAUAF), which might be cheaper than one with chrome
  • After removing the latch hardware, my chrome handle will also pull right out & could transfer over

This project at least seems confidently feasible now... and using factory parts to make the operation & aesthetics more legitimate.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

Come now, all ye naysayers, and tell me why this legitimately wouldn't work... preferably before I waste money starting to order parts.

shakenfake

Sounds like you have put a good amount of time into this and it seems like it should work. I would think the hardest part is connecting the locks to the manual key hole. I would not think that it messes anything up personally but what do I know I am not a Dodge guy.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

neither am i... but i have half an understanding of mass production principles, so that tells me there ain't nothing in the way (structurally) that would interfere with the linkage because they all (with & without key locks) used the same handle design, door shell, etc. one of the parts listed above is literally labeled "Link, Key Cylinder To Latch, Front Door-Right"

shakenfake

I think the best way to try is get the cheaper handle and try with that first. Then the more expensive handle for final fit and finish

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

shoot in Brandon's economy? i can't afford to be buying up all the door handles to then have to dump them for 1/2 or 1/4 cost once i verify it works (or more likely sit in a box in the garage forever).

shakenfake

shieet idk how much they cost
Are you doing all four doors or just the front two? Also I wasn't saying buy two I would just buy one and then try it.

_zebra

iTrader: (5)

nice Marjorie Greene impression