When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
so today was finally nice outside, so before i spent 12hrs building a pergola, i took my doors apart to see what i was working with.
the front-passenger door's sheet metal definitely has a hole behind the handle for a key cylinder (as expected). after comparing the left & right sides, though, i'm pretty sure my latch ain't got the mechanism to connect key linkage. i didn't take the inner panel out - simply looked & felt around though the square-rubber-covered service port - but from what i could tell of the driver's side key linkage connection, that lever don't exist on my passenger-side latch.
reckon i'll have to start with the mid-level latch (68079094AC for power locks but no remote) & see if that plays nice with the clicker & alarm. sucks to add another $50-100 bucks to the project
I meant two handles at once dipshit. Like both sides
you still ain't making no sense, son. "dipshit" - my ***, numb nuts!
already got a key lock on the driver's door (as does every truck); nothing changes here, so i'm only adding one key cylinder to the front-passenger door. that gives me three (technically four) door handle options:
buy an OEM front-right handle with the key lock (it'd be black textured plastic, which doesn't match my gray paint+chrome handles)
drill a hole in my current handle (the keyhole would look like garbage compared to the driver's handle)
buy an OEM, color-matched, keyed driver's handle & swap my passenger-side latch mechanism over to it
two versions: completely color-matched or w/ chrome handle - either could work because i should be able to transfer my current passenger chrome pull handle to the new driver's handle base
maintains a factory beveled/finished key hole
have to replace a factory riveted hinge pin with a machine screw+nut (not quite as fail-proof)
finally made it down to the local dodge dealer with an ID & ownership documents (such a racist concept ), and the parts guy gave me a code for my key tumblers (and bonus pin # for if i need to program another key fob)... but his system wouldn't tell him what the key code actually equates to with regard to buying cylinder tumblers.
a local locksmith, however, was kind enough to decrypt the tumbler code to tell me how many 1s, 2s, 3s, & 4s i'll need (and in which order)... of course, i'd have a preponderance of ones that ain't made no more & others that are on back-order. now the search continues.
the parts guy also posed a good question: what if the power latch with key provisions doesn't recognize my remote (since the trucks they came on didn't have clickers)? i think *theoretically* it'll be okay due to the electrical connector appearing the same & the fact that it's commanded by the body control module - not directly by the remote. additionally (not having physically compared the two - only picture analysis), i believe they look almost identical & could potentially disassemble them to add the linkage provision to my original one... just a hunch.
Most of my parts showed up last weekend. Order said everything was supposed to be in one box, but all the lock tumblers & springs ain't here (working on rectifying that). Also, ended up buying duplicates due to confusion over an item description. Turns out all 5 of the parts salesmen I asked about a listing were wrong… details below.
Overall
The project was a success - despite all the naysayers’ attempts to dissuade me! Ultimately, this ain’t just about me being an old fogey who still opens my wife’s door before getting in & would rather not unnecessarily actuate every lock on the truck just to do so.
In addition to showing how to add a passenger key lock to a truck that didn't come with one, it’s also confirmation for guys who do have factory passenger key locks and want to swap to fancier painted and/or chrome door handles (whether they have power locks or not). This is also the perfect mod for Aussies, Kiwis, and other right-drive areas where the conversion company was too lazy or cheap to move the key to the driver’s door (every RHD Ram I’ve seen so far).
Parts list (thanks to Bedlam (CumminsForum) for helping confirm based on his truck)
68079094AC: Right-side power door latch with key lock provision (purple clip)
55397564AA: Right-side key linkage rod
Note: Catalog indicates 55372978AA is for power (JPB) & manual (JE8) locks, but it’s 1/2” too short & won’t allow the key to turn both directions when connected to the latch above.
5071155AA: Right-side key linkage rod retaining clip (orange)
55136554AA: Lock cylinder linkage lever
68045150AA: Lock cylinder
Note: Everyone told me it’s only two pieces: the mounting barrel + key cylinder, however, as most listings indicate - it’s also packaged with the cap (5102456AA), dust shutter (5019605AA), dust shutter springs (no part number), linkage lever retainer (no part number), and a tube of tumbler grease.
4778121: Key tumbler springs
Note: You’ll need 7 of these.
Key tumblers: go to a dealership parts counter with a gov’t ID & proof of ownership (title, registration, or the like) to run a “key code inquiry”. Your VIN will return an ignition code (and PIN for reprogramming/adding remotes), and if you ask a local locksmith nicely, he might decipher that ignition code into an 8-digit sequence of the numbers 1-4. Omit the 1st digit, and this tells you which key tumbler tabs to buy.
#1: 4778117AB
#2: 4778118AB
#3: 4778119AB
#4: 4778120AB
Door handle with a key hole: WAY too many variables to list here (paint color, chrome pull, passive entry button, etc, each affect the part number). Bottom line is to buy a driver’s door handle in the style you desire… unless you only want the base-model textured black plastic, in which case, the OEM keyed passenger door handle is 55112382AE and will save you some work.
Note: Another option is to simply drill out a key hole in your own handle & then sand down a matching bevel edge and apply touch-up paint/clear coat.
Note: Buy two sets if you want to convert your old handle to be a keyless left door handle (rear door… or to delete the key from the driver’s).
Door prep
Plenty of tutorials out there for disassembling the door panels & swapping door handles, so I’ll forego those explanations & drop links to some that helped me the most.
Note: He’s working on a 2nd Gen, but it’s very similar.
See: no drilling required; the door already has a lock hole.
And I will say (after having each door apart 3-4 times throughout this process): it’s worth the pain of detaching & taping up the window glass to not mutilate my arm trying to work on the handle through the tiny access port.
Door latch
Corporate math says saving 20¢ per latch on 5mil units over the last decade = $1mil extra profit, therefore the keyless entry front-right door latch omits the lever to connect any key linkage. The latch listed above is for the base models with power locks + a keyed door, and it appears to be the exact same as my original... except with key lock provisions (lever arm with purple clip). Swap it over to your inner door panel while that’s out.
Note: It also seems these latch units are riveted together (case halves, hinges, levers, etc), which prevented me from simply transferring the lever to my original unit after I realized my 1st new latch was defective.
Lock cylinder
As mentioned above, the part number for the key cylinder actually includes a cap & dust shutter, so don’t purchase those individually. It also comes with the springs that suspend the dust shutter (not included when buying the shutter separately), a necessary retainer clip that doesn’t come with the linkage arm, and some lube.
For tactile learners, I found it worthwhile to remove my driver’s lock to use as a template (since that door was already apart for R&D)… but I’ll try to explain it decently here:
The last seven digits of your ignition code are the order to install your key tumblers into the cylinder - starting with the end where you insert the key (or work backwards through the numbers from the little end).
Drop a tumbler spring into the rounded end of the tumbler slot.
The number stamped on the tumbler should face the key insertion end so that the protruding ‘arm’ sits over the spring.
Tumblers alternate sides of the cylinder (4 on one side, 3 on the other)
* stand by for another picture or watch the video above *
Use your door key as you go to ensure you ain’t screwing the pooch. With the key fully inserted, all tabs should sit flush with the cylinder on both sides.
* stand by for another picture or watch the video above *
When complete, slather it with the grease to ensure smooth operation for a long time.
Assemble the lock:
Slide the cylinder into the mounting sleeve.
Insert two dust shutter springs into the round pockets on the key end of the cylinder.
* stand by for another picture *
Snap the dust shutter over them (remaining cognizant of the hinge recesses on one side… meaning it only installs one way).
Snap the cap over the key end to secure the cylinder into the mounting barrel (also has a notch for one-way install).
Flip over & install the linkage lever onto the little end of the key cylinder - stepping up/away from the barrel, oriented 180° from the mounting screw wings, and secured with the flat retainer clip.
Snap the orange linkage rod retainer into the hole on the side furthest from the barrel.
* stand by for another picture *
(Excuse the pics I'll eventually post of the driver’s lock [pink clip]… I forgot to take them before installing the passenger side.)
Door handle
While Dodge installed key locks on both front doors of the ST & Tradesman models that didn’t have keyless entry (all manual locks & some power locks), every truck with a keyless entry remote (the only configuration for trims above ST / Tradesman) omitted the passenger door key. Since the option for painted and/or chrome handles was only for SLT & higher trims, none of those upscale handles were built with both a key hole and right-side latch hardware… but that’s surprisingly easy to remedy.
The 09-present (4th-5th Gen) Dodge full-size truck door handles are basically all the same: there’s a single symmetrical design that’s made to accept left- & right-side latch release hardware, and they all have lock cylinder support bracing (yep, even on the rear doors). Remember: corporate math says universal design = one mold = lower cost.
That means any of these handles can work on any of these doors. This unmodified driver’s handle with lock fits perfectly on the right door… except the latch release is upside-down.
The latch release mechanism hinges on a riveted pin. Simply grab a drill bit & bore out the dimpled end to remove that pin from your right-side handle, then repeat on your new driver’s handle. Transfer the lever & spring from old to new. Use a 4x45mm screw as a new hinge pin, and secure it with a lock washer+lock nut (add a dab of LocTite if you want)… but not so tight as to inhibit smooth operation.
Note: This process also works if you simply want to swap chrome or painted pulls onto existing handles or do a thorough paint job on what you’ve got. Once the hinge pin is out, the entire handle disassembles easily.
Now put it all back together
Method I found to be easiest:
Insert the completed lock cylinder into the newly-converted handle.
Bolt the door handle to the bare door.
Attach the linkage rods to the door handle.
Note: They normally have a dab of paint near the bottom end that connects to the latch to help you install them in the correct orientation.
Reminder: the new smaller linkage rod goes to the key lever (orange clip).
Carefully reinstall + bolt up the inner door panel & latch, taking care to not bend or snag the two dangling linkage rods.
Connect the linkage rods: door handle to white & key lock to purple.
Note: Latch should be attached to inner door panel first; this mock-up is for illustration only.
Finish door reassembly.
If you’ve done it right, your power locks will still work as normal (including with the key fob), and the same pop-out blade key will lock/unlock both doors. Congrats! Now you won’t have to prematurely wear out two rear door + tailgate lock motors when you only want to open the passenger door.
And because I’m still waiting on missing lock tumblers, I ended up installing my driver’s key cylinder in the new right handle to complete this part of the job… so I used my remaining left-side guts in the original passenger handle to get me by on the driver’s door in the mean time… so maybe I’ve also temporarily got the 1st key delete (short of shaving the door handles altogether for poppers).
05-07-2022, 11:01 PM
), and the parts guy gave me a code for my key tumblers (and bonus pin # for if i need to program another key fob)... but his system wouldn't tell him what the key code actually equates to with regard to buying cylinder tumblers.
