sickREDsierra

iTrader: (17)

well, one of the only things i went cheap on was my TC.. it was built in a factory shell (11") i think...

it stalls fine, but i think it is heavier than i need, and i am leaning towards a 9.5" verter of about the same stall speed.

just curious who has moved from a 10.5" or 11" down to a 9.5" of similar stall speed, and how your 60' dropped.

to this day, i have never had a 60' below 2.0 seconds

i think my engine would rev quicker with the smaller verter, and probably 60' a lot better.. i have seen 5.3's n/a on here around 1.7 - 1.8 .. damnit.

whats your thoughts?

ap2002

iTrader: (8)

r u running slicks? if not, then good luck getting it under the 2.0....

regency

iTrader: (15)

i had to put my stock verter (12") back in this week while the 10" 3800 is getting a new clutch and i can tell you it feels like its binding up tryin to rotate this heavy sucker at idle.

99Silverado5.3

iTrader: (7)

+1 on the slicks.

A 9.5" is less rotational weight..not only help you outta the hole but up top as well due to the motor reving quicker like you mentioned.

zippy

I managed to get into the 1.9's with my truck with the 20's in full street trim with my 5.3L and only a few bolts on's with a TB converter. The best I did on the stock converter was 2.12, but I didn't have it in there long enough to try to get it into the 2.0's or better.

circusboy

iTrader: (2)

I'll let you know this weekend

TXsilverado

iTrader: (19)

im in the 1.8's on street tires

zippy

I'm pretty positive I can get there on my 20's. With Cal-Trac's and QA1's (down the road) I want to try for 1.7's on my Hankook 20's.

sickREDsierra

iTrader: (17)

what size/brand of street tire?

mine blow up off the line

BigKID

iTrader: (5)

There are other factors besides the actual diameter of the converter that play into how it launches your vehicle. Connverter weight as well as the converter's STR play a large role as well. The stock converters are very heavy compaired to aftermarket equivalents of the same diameter which use a billet case. Throw in small diameter which decreases case and internal componet weight, you get significantly less rotating weight at the crank. Most quality aftermarket converters have a much higher STR that a stock (or reworked stock) converter as well. According to you sig, your truck looks to be set up pretty well. You shouldn't have skimped on the converter. Get a good 9.5" or 10.5" aftermarket converter and I bet you will see some sub 2.0 60fts. Just FYI, I had a Yank TT3000 when I had about the same mods as you on a 5.3L (h/c/n2o/full bolton) and it did pretty well. I switched from it to a Fuddle HPTruck (9.5") and the truck came out of the hole much harder. I am currently running a Fuddle 9.5" in my 4L80 and pulled a 1.77 60' at Irvington a few weeks ago babying it out of the hole on 305/45/18 Nittos.