how much quicker in quarter with 3200?
07-15-2010, 07:00 PM
#1
how much quicker in quarter with 3200?
mods in sig, heres my time slip results with no stall and no dr's
60ft-- 2.33
330-- 6.11
1/8 ET 9.07
1/8 mph 79.90
1/4 ET 14.13
1/4 mph 99.75
I cant get out of the 2.30's . i spin a bit off the line, 1-2 shift and chirp 3rd , so im losing time there, but i know i should be in the 13's. this is in 85-90 degrees and no intercooler, cooler whether, 13's for sure, but i want
low 13's
60ft-- 2.33
330-- 6.11
1/8 ET 9.07
1/8 mph 79.90
1/4 ET 14.13
1/4 mph 99.75
I cant get out of the 2.30's . i spin a bit off the line, 1-2 shift and chirp 3rd , so im losing time there, but i know i should be in the 13's. this is in 85-90 degrees and no intercooler, cooler whether, 13's for sure, but i want
low 13's
07-15-2010, 08:13 PM
#2
A 3200 stall, cool weather and a set of short sticky slicks will make a DRAMATIC improvement to your ET. Depending on how your tune is set-up, you could be pulling a ton of timing with the hot temps, especially with no intercooler (although your MPH seems fair). Learn how to lanuch with the new converter and slicks and I wouldn't be shocked if you picked up .5 - 1 full second. All IMHO of course.
07-15-2010, 08:17 PM
#3
You will easily gain .5 to a full seccond with the stall and DOT slicks. Don't buy DR you have a truck and you want bias. If you really play your cards right and you could loose 1.5 to 2 full secconds if you can make boost off the line.
07-15-2010, 08:51 PM
#4
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why no DR's I run a MT dr and have gotten a 1.49 60' w/stock springs and a set of caltrac bars.just curios?
07-16-2010, 05:50 AM
#6
Because DR aren't forgiving at all. On a truck we need every bit of traction possible and a slick will offer 99% of it's traction 99%of the time. A radial will offer 99% of it's traction 50% of the time because if it spins it won't recover.
To make radials work you either get very lucky or have to dial the suspension in perfectly and you still are not going to hook all the time. DR aren't actually any faster either. I have found a few people with side by side testing and .1-.2 et gains and 1-2 mph is all any of them have gained with a DR over a slick. The isn't any faster in my book especialy when you consider how many bye runs you will make from not hooking.
In short a bias slick is by far the best for almost any application unless you are going to race in a DR class. The manufacturers also recommend a slick for trucks.
To make radials work you either get very lucky or have to dial the suspension in perfectly and you still are not going to hook all the time. DR aren't actually any faster either. I have found a few people with side by side testing and .1-.2 et gains and 1-2 mph is all any of them have gained with a DR over a slick. The isn't any faster in my book especialy when you consider how many bye runs you will make from not hooking.
In short a bias slick is by far the best for almost any application unless you are going to race in a DR class. The manufacturers also recommend a slick for trucks.
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07-16-2010, 03:17 PM
#8
thanks everyone for your help, the truck pulls hard from a 50 punch, cause when it drops to second its under boost. i still havent pullied down, only seeing 3-4 pounds, cause of the cam and exhaust. would you recommend a 16" slick maybe 26-28"s tall , or will the 15" rims fit over the rear drums on the crew cabs? 1 second off would be nice, id be happy with that haha
07-17-2010, 09:22 AM
#9
i run a 275/55/16 M&H DR, no traction aid, hitting bump stops. i have a consistent 1.82 60' with a 3200 converter and my 6.2/60e i dont agree with your theory on slicks vs DRs. thats your opinion vs mine so its honestly whatever you wanna run.
i went from 15.6 to 14.8 with just a converter and vette servo swap on 3:42s and a stock 5.3 in my CC
i went from 15.6 to 14.8 with just a converter and vette servo swap on 3:42s and a stock 5.3 in my CC
07-17-2010, 09:47 AM
#10
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Because DR aren't forgiving at all. On a truck we need every bit of traction possible and a slick will offer 99% of it's traction 99%of the time. A radial will offer 99% of it's traction 50% of the time because if it spins it won't recover.
To make radials work you either get very lucky or have to dial the suspension in perfectly and you still are not going to hook all the time. DR aren't actually any faster either. I have found a few people with side by side testing and .1-.2 et gains and 1-2 mph is all any of them have gained with a DR over a slick. The isn't any faster in my book especialy when you consider how many bye runs you will make from not hooking.
In short a bias slick is by far the best for almost any application unless you are going to race in a DR class. The manufacturers also recommend a slick for trucks.
To make radials work you either get very lucky or have to dial the suspension in perfectly and you still are not going to hook all the time. DR aren't actually any faster either. I have found a few people with side by side testing and .1-.2 et gains and 1-2 mph is all any of them have gained with a DR over a slick. The isn't any faster in my book especialy when you consider how many bye runs you will make from not hooking.
In short a bias slick is by far the best for almost any application unless you are going to race in a DR class. The manufacturers also recommend a slick for trucks.
DRs dont have the sway of a bias tire and when mixed with radial up front you can experience plenty of wobble on the big end. a DR stays solid and is easily to calculate with.
DR takes actual skill to hook, one downfall of a DR is wheel shake, its less forgiving then a bias
ive run both over the years and a DR works well