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suspension drop vs 60'

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Old 10-22-2007, 11:21 AM
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seems pretty obvious that if you run out of travel you'll run into problems. Why not just c-notch? It costs about $100 to buy(I paid $60 for my full djm flip kit with c-notch) and takes about an hour to do with a simple angle grinder with a cut-off wheel.

I think the idea that lowering your truck hurts your 60' is silly. Like said above, it's HOW YOU LOWER IT. Running a 6" flip kit scientifically has no difference in suspension geometry than a stock height truck.

Now I could see something like the hotchkis leaf springs that are very stiff and don't allow weight transfer.
Old 10-22-2007, 12:19 PM
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my point of this was that you see different results from different ppl at different ride heights. i think tombstone is stock height and his truck transfers nicely and pulls good 60s all day long.
guy at track sat hes on here but dont post much. Dick Gumble {sp} stock height and running i beleive 40psi in his MT drag radials and cuts 1.7s all day long. his truck has always cut 60s like that.

then theres my example of my truck best i cut was 1.74 and that was off idle anything higher and i blew tires off. reguardless of tire i was using. i noticed the truck wouldnt lift as ive seen others.

seen a video of s/c sprayed 5.7 4x4 yesterday and he was coming out hard even stated he was inching hte front left.

like to hear everyone's experiences since alot of members race
Old 10-22-2007, 12:46 PM
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All Tombstone and others around here have done different to cut better 60's was change converters, no changes to ride hights. Lot's of people have gone with "Quality Converters" (local builder) and gotten better results but getting a perfect converter is a hit and miss. I think ride hight doesn't necessarily affect 60's unless it's causing traction problem's, wheel hop, unloading problems etc. I mean dragsters and most racecars are real low and don't squat any but have properly set suspensions therefore allowing them to hook and go. Better 60's = Launching harder and hooking.
Old 10-22-2007, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by la Cuerva
All Tombstone and others around here have done different to cut better 60's was change converters, no changes to ride hights. Lot's of people have gone with "Quality Converters" (local builder) and gotten better results but getting a perfect converter is a hit and miss. I think ride hight doesn't necessarily affect 60's unless it's causing traction problem's, wheel hop, unloading problems etc. I mean dragsters and most racecars are real low and don't squat any but have properly set suspensions therefore allowing them to hook and go. Better 60's = Launching harder and hooking.
youre right the actual height wont affect it but im saying the distance it actually travels. like beastmode his converter sucks so his truck barely even transfers from a dig. from a roll it works but a dig no transfer

im thinking for 08 i might have to notch my frame. 6speed will allow me to leave higher then any auto and if i only have 2" or so from bump stop it might just be hitting it. that might of been the reason last year. didnt have anyone truely watching my launches

also notice even with sway bar detached up front mine doesnt raise much. that could also be my IAS shocks
Old 10-22-2007, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by KySilverado
With stock suspension the rear would load, front lift and break traction. With the nitrous I am considering suspension limiting straps on front.
I noticed the same exact thing. At one point, the front pass tire on my SS would show smoke at the launch through the 60ft mark. By clamping the rear springs with some flat stock and grade 8 bolts, this all but went away. Deffinately made a difference.

Me - Stock SSS height, best of 1.62x 60ft. (will be in the 1.5's this year as long as nothing snaps - using drag radials).
Old 10-22-2007, 06:34 PM
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i have a 2/4 drop on mine, (shackles/hangers) and have cut a best of 1.67 on the 28" Hoosiers.... two weeks ago I could only get a best of 1.75??? I really considering the "caltracs" at this point....
Old 10-22-2007, 07:36 PM
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So the question is more in the realm of rear suspension play. I have factory ZX3 suspension control (stiffin's the **** out of the shocks), so when I get my cam in and run some half decent times i can experiment, I really don't think at the point Im at now it will make any difference. I can go to the strip Thursday and find out, if it quits raining.
Old 10-22-2007, 08:41 PM
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It all depends on how you go about getting it low mine is 6" lower in the front and 5" in the rear. So far with caltracs and drag radials it has gone 1.32 60.
Old 10-22-2007, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by blacksheep
My truck with a 2/4, overload spring taken out, and cal-tracs went 1.55-1.59 on 28in et streets.
Did you just pull the overload to get the 4 in the rear or did you do something else? With the overload out did you have any trouble with wheel hop? I am trying to get mine to better than 1.71 I am not getting any wheelhop at all, I just dont know what its going to do with the 150 shot.
Old 10-23-2007, 10:01 AM
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I don't think rear suspension travel is as important as people think when it comes to caltracs. If you look at any car or truck with caltracs while they're launching, you'll see that the rear end is not squating, but lifting and separating. They use torque applied to the leaf springs via the differential to drive the tires into the ground. For every action there's a reaction and the reaction is the bed/rear of the vehicle lifting up.


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