4.8 Procharger set-up questions...
08-28-2010, 11:19 AM
#71
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I never said it was horrible, I've been around this site a while, but you learn to sift through the bs and recognize who has experience and who read it in hot rod. As far as an internet know it all? LOL...no, I have my experience, I'm not some punkass who just graduated and likes to sit at starbucks on wifi. It appears there are other people who share the same converter sizing for the OP as I do, so the it must not be too much mis-information I am posting. 
But wait.. I don't have a high post count so I don't know ****...
08-28-2010, 12:06 PM
#72
Something you need to realize that not everyone is building an all out track beast. In about 90% of your recommendations you say the same thing. 4.56, 4200-4400 TC, 1 7/8 header, 28in tire ( which looks horrible on a truck) cam in the mid 230s or 240s. I would hate to drive that on a regular basis, you may be absolutely fine with it. But that is where peoples opinions come in. I like driving my truck and i dont want want a beater. Alot of members on here want a mix of both, keep that in mind when you recommend combos. Also a 4000+ tc wont drive like stock, otherwise it would be a stock TC. Part throttle my rpms are at 4000-4200, i would love to see a stock TC do that. Yes itnis fun at times but it makes it louder and just flat out different.
Also telling people it is ok not to run both octane tables in anything besides a track only setup is the worst advice you could post. Also comparing a late model fuel injected motor to a 60's era distributor car is flat out stupid.
Like i said tone it down or leave. You do provide some good advice and also you like to push the boundaries of the norm which is good but keep in mind it is not for everyone.
Also telling people it is ok not to run both octane tables in anything besides a track only setup is the worst advice you could post. Also comparing a late model fuel injected motor to a 60's era distributor car is flat out stupid.
Like i said tone it down or leave. You do provide some good advice and also you like to push the boundaries of the norm which is good but keep in mind it is not for everyone.
the thing pissed me off about the PM factor was i was in process of getting a master from Tick performance but no contact now, also had a deal to sell my pt88 which cant answer pms.
also thanks for the kind words
but you have ppl that dont have any experience giving advice, this is where tech and this site has become. a lot of ppl that are repeat sayers without actual experience. this leads to water down information and stears ppl away from actual own experiences. If anything go after the ppl that dont have actual knowledge or experience instead of pointing me out like im the out of line person.
seriously a centrif blower that is on a 4.8 with only 410s 28" tire and 3k stall wont do ****. that combo on a maggie is different story, ppl also got realize once you get bit by the mod bug you need a new daily/beater.
4.8 with 4500 stall, 456 and d1 will run some good times, easy 11s combo in a rcsb hell enough psi and suspension and yo have possiblity of 10s in right hands.
as you know cody a sbc is stalled differently then a LS motor and most ppl think 3k is max you go for a sbc then try and apply that to the ls motors. Hell 4k stall on a stock motor is ideal.
also thanks for the kind words
but you have ppl that dont have any experience giving advice, this is where tech and this site has become. a lot of ppl that are repeat sayers without actual experience. this leads to water down information and stears ppl away from actual own experiences. If anything go after the ppl that dont have actual knowledge or experience instead of pointing me out like im the out of line person.
seriously a centrif blower that is on a 4.8 with only 410s 28" tire and 3k stall wont do ****. that combo on a maggie is different story, ppl also got realize once you get bit by the mod bug you need a new daily/beater.
4.8 with 4500 stall, 456 and d1 will run some good times, easy 11s combo in a rcsb hell enough psi and suspension and yo have possiblity of 10s in right hands.
as you know cody a sbc is stalled differently then a LS motor and most ppl think 3k is max you go for a sbc then try and apply that to the ls motors. Hell 4k stall on a stock motor is ideal.
08-28-2010, 12:06 PM
#73
I never said it was horrible, I've been around this site a while, but you learn to sift through the bs and recognize who has experience and who read it in hot rod. As far as an internet know it all? LOL...no, I have my experience, I'm not some punkass who just graduated and likes to sit at starbucks on wifi. It appears there are other people who share the same converter sizing for the OP as I do, so the it must not be too much mis-information I am posting. But wait.. I don't have a high post count so I don't know ****...Your agruement was all converters drive the same when they simply dont, no one argued that, that big of a converter wouldnt lay down some good times.
Out of curiosity, what kind of times do you run with your setup? Thats quite the big cam and small converter for such a heavy vehicle.
08-28-2010, 12:48 PM
#74
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Something you need to realize that not everyone is building an all out track beast. In about 90% of your recommendations you say the same thing. 4.56, 4200-4400 TC, 1 7/8 header, 28in tire ( which looks horrible on a truck) cam in the mid 230s or 240s. I would hate to drive that on a regular basis, you may be absolutely fine with it. But that is where peoples opinions come in. I like driving my truck and i dont want want a beater. Alot of members on here want a mix of both, keep that in mind when you recommend combos. Also a 4000+ tc wont drive like stock, otherwise it would be a stock TC. Part throttle my rpms are at 4000-4200, i would love to see a stock TC do that. Yes itnis fun at times but it makes it louder and just flat out different.
Also telling people it is ok not to run both octane tables in anything besides a track only setup is the worst advice you could post. Also comparing a late model fuel injected motor to a 60's era distributor car is flat out stupid.
Like i said tone it down or leave. You do provide some good advice and also you like to push the boundaries of the norm which is good but keep in mind it is not for everyone.
Also telling people it is ok not to run both octane tables in anything besides a track only setup is the worst advice you could post. Also comparing a late model fuel injected motor to a 60's era distributor car is flat out stupid.
Like i said tone it down or leave. You do provide some good advice and also you like to push the boundaries of the norm which is good but keep in mind it is not for everyone.
but you guys tune your own ways, mod them your own ways. when it doesnt run the times or gets the mpg you think.... Dont come asking cause ill be more of a dick then you claim i am now
08-28-2010, 12:50 PM
#75
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its easy to sink 30k into paint, wheels, tires, fuel, gauges, software, power adder, and etc
but im sure you knew that is the direction i was referring to
08-28-2010, 12:59 PM
#76
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Something you need to realize that not everyone is building an all out track beast. In about 90% of your recommendations you say the same thing. 4.56, 4200-4400 TC, 1 7/8 header, 28in tire ( which looks horrible on a truck) cam in the mid 230s or 240s. I would hate to drive that on a regular basis, you may be absolutely fine with it. But that is where peoples opinions come in. I like driving my truck and i dont want want a beater. Alot of members on here want a mix of both, keep that in mind when you recommend combos. Also a 4000+ tc wont drive like stock, otherwise it would be a stock TC. Part throttle my rpms are at 4000-4200, i would love to see a stock TC do that. Yes itnis fun at times but it makes it louder and just flat out different.
Also telling people it is ok not to run both octane tables in anything besides a track only setup is the worst advice you could post. Also comparing a late model fuel injected motor to a 60's era distributor car is flat out stupid.
Like i said tone it down or leave. You do provide some good advice and also you like to push the boundaries of the norm which is good but keep in mind it is not for everyone.
Also telling people it is ok not to run both octane tables in anything besides a track only setup is the worst advice you could post. Also comparing a late model fuel injected motor to a 60's era distributor car is flat out stupid.
Like i said tone it down or leave. You do provide some good advice and also you like to push the boundaries of the norm which is good but keep in mind it is not for everyone.
the 4.8 i had used 488s at first with a 230/236 cam with 8.8cr. i got 18mpg cruising. it made more power off boost then a stock 4.8 did. It drove no issues, could go 30 mph at 750 rpms without cam surge or bucking. not mentioned it pulled decent vaccum for having such a cam of that size. [timing is big key here]
point is fact unless you have truely experienced it you cant talk about it. if youre setup or the next guys with less radical parts still have unlivable characteristics then fix the tune to correct them.
every combo ive had got decent mpg after enough tuning and all drive stock. You have to think outside the norm to get things to work for ya..... bring all types of racing and motors together and combine the knowledge.
i use dirt track, drag, road racing theories and apply them to what ever project im working on. Racing has been around for decades, old theories work!!!!
08-28-2010, 01:06 PM
#77
You had a t56. Your comparing apples and donkeys. I get 20-21 mpg crusing but 10 straight city.
since i cant re-edit my posts heres another add to it
the 4.8 i had used 488s at first with a 230/236 cam with 8.8cr. i got 18mpg cruising. it made more power off boost then a stock 4.8 did. It drove no issues, could go 30 mph at 750 rpms without cam surge or bucking. not mentioned it pulled decent vaccum for having such a cam of that size. [timing is big key here]
point is fact unless you have truely experienced it you cant talk about it. if youre setup or the next guys with less radical parts still have unlivable characteristics then fix the tune to correct them.
every combo ive had got decent mpg after enough tuning and all drive stock. You have to think outside the norm to get things to work for ya..... bring all types of racing and motors together and combine the knowledge.
i use dirt track, drag, road racing theories and apply them to what ever project im working on. Racing has been around for decades, old theories work!!!!
the 4.8 i had used 488s at first with a 230/236 cam with 8.8cr. i got 18mpg cruising. it made more power off boost then a stock 4.8 did. It drove no issues, could go 30 mph at 750 rpms without cam surge or bucking. not mentioned it pulled decent vaccum for having such a cam of that size. [timing is big key here]
point is fact unless you have truely experienced it you cant talk about it. if youre setup or the next guys with less radical parts still have unlivable characteristics then fix the tune to correct them.
every combo ive had got decent mpg after enough tuning and all drive stock. You have to think outside the norm to get things to work for ya..... bring all types of racing and motors together and combine the knowledge.
i use dirt track, drag, road racing theories and apply them to what ever project im working on. Racing has been around for decades, old theories work!!!!
08-28-2010, 01:24 PM
#79
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I guess to answer HeadGames Dave's original question: There is no right or wrong answer when it comes to stalls. Your best bet would be to drive, or ride in, other people's trucks with different stalls and figure out what you like. Everybody has different tastes and different goals. Sit down, figure out what your goals are (DD, track truck, a mix of both, etc.) and go from there. A procharged (or any FI for that matter) truck is going to be fun regardless.
I run a 12" billet converter from Circle-D that stalls to 3000. However, keep in mind that I run an ecsb, lifted with 33" tires, a cammed 6.0, and 14#'s of boost. It drives "almost" stock, but will flash to 3000 and roast the tires even at 30mph. Not bad for a big *** truck if you ask me. Sharpshooter and I pretty much run the same setup and he used to run a Yank TT3000. This stall would flash to 3400-3500 with his setup, but was so inefficient through the midrange and up top compared to the Circle-D.
As for the DD you guys were talking about, I run a 2002 Ford Ranger. It's so nice to have a truck I don't care about, can do whatever with it, and not worry about it getting a scratch or dented up. I can keep my truck clean in the garage and take it out to play whenever I want. It also makes it nice when working on a project, so I don't feel like I have to rush and get it back on the road. Let's face it, once you reach a certain power level, anything can break at any given time. It's nice to have the old DD to fall back on until it can be repaired.
I run a 12" billet converter from Circle-D that stalls to 3000. However, keep in mind that I run an ecsb, lifted with 33" tires, a cammed 6.0, and 14#'s of boost. It drives "almost" stock, but will flash to 3000 and roast the tires even at 30mph. Not bad for a big *** truck if you ask me. Sharpshooter and I pretty much run the same setup and he used to run a Yank TT3000. This stall would flash to 3400-3500 with his setup, but was so inefficient through the midrange and up top compared to the Circle-D.
As for the DD you guys were talking about, I run a 2002 Ford Ranger. It's so nice to have a truck I don't care about, can do whatever with it, and not worry about it getting a scratch or dented up. I can keep my truck clean in the garage and take it out to play whenever I want. It also makes it nice when working on a project, so I don't feel like I have to rush and get it back on the road. Let's face it, once you reach a certain power level, anything can break at any given time. It's nice to have the old DD to fall back on until it can be repaired.
Last edited by sureshot; 08-28-2010 at 01:38 PM.