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The 4.8L that could..... With pictures... and soon... videos.

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Old 05-30-2010, 09:42 AM
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well i had to eat a little rice here and there and show up a few mustangs..... it almost feels like something is just stuck. tranny fluid doesnt look that bad and the other gears work fine... ill get a vid up when i get home
Old 05-30-2010, 12:27 PM
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The end of the 4L60E

After the lesser part of 2 days, apparently, my stock 4L60E wants no part of the nearly 500 crank hp. Here is the result. Sorry, I didnt get a good video when the transmission still worked. Oh, and luckily, I made it home.

All of these videos take place in a hour of each other.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4i5fm3B2SyI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNE5YZsIrhk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ly2l47v07I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fOyzAPmaFoo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BLPjlTeZhs


Time to start preparing for a 4L80E........
Old 05-31-2010, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by anasasisxenophontis
That's just the injectors giving too much fuel and then bouncing back on the governor spring to keep it at idle. Like a 'higher power potential' mode. This only works because diesels build so much more boost than gas engines, and this gives it more fuel to compliment the boost.
Soon gas engines won't even have a camshaft, but just a bunch of valves and solenoids and a computer that changes valve timing per RPM to keep it at peak power at all times. No need for a switch
Actually, on that one, since it is common rail injected, just like your engine, all you have to have to make it lope is a tune. An otherwise stock Duramax/Powerstroke/Cummins, as long as it is electronically injected, is capable of that. On a mechanically injected diesel however, large injector lines (which leads to low fuel velocity) coupled with lower compression and HUGE injectors will cause a lope. Though it is significantly more erratic than one caused by a tune. Even if you put the narliest cam you could find in it, a diesel will not lope. It is direct injected, and has no throttle blades. Just my .02.
Old 06-02-2010, 06:04 PM
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Is it even worth investing in a 4L60E that claims to handle 700hp with a 2 year warrenty?

If i was able to keep using a 60E for now, that would work better due to budget problems.
Old 06-02-2010, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Ericmck2000
Is it even worth investing in a 4L60E that claims to handle 700hp with a 2 year warrenty?

If i was able to keep using a 60E for now, that would work better due to budget problems.
Excellent question, I want to hear the answer too.

I have a R-tvs1900 that's going in on my '06 5.3 rcsb 4x4 when I can afford a built tranny.
Old 06-02-2010, 11:56 PM
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Bout the whole 4.8 bad gas milage i agree except when you throw 4.10's in the mix.I got avg. 25-26 mpg. highway.It also held gear up a grade no prob.

Far as when to ditch the 4l60e goes.The first thing to think about is how far am i gonna take modding 400 500 600 hp.I think those numbers can be reliable had if you use a vender such as FLT/Performabuilt and select the level that best suites your needs.Will it last forever no but,imo if you get 15000-20000 mi. out of a performance trans then you got your moneys worth.I would also like to add one of the most over looked parts of having a 4l60e is knowing how to use it.
Old 06-03-2010, 12:00 AM
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Oh yeah i blew my 4l60 the same day i had my blower setup tuned.I was given a Z an *** whoopin on the freeway.Then i let it shift into O.D. at WOT.
Old 06-04-2010, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jiar577
Excellent question, I want to hear the answer too.

I have a R-tvs1900 that's going in on my '06 5.3 rcsb 4x4 when I can afford a built tranny.
Anything know the anwser to this...?

Is it worth getting a built 4L60E with the warrenty that has a 1 or 2 year warrenty.... Or are 60Es just piece of **** which should immendiatly be replaced with 80Es when you have over 350hp.
Old 04-06-2011, 02:54 AM
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Has been a long time since a reply. This build is still in progress.

But.... due to problems, 5600 miles ago, the transmission broke.
600 miles ago, popped a hole in #8 from cheap gas.
Did not fix either, and 25 miles ago the oil pump quit pumping.

But, even with no oil pressure, what sounds like a thrown rod, and oil and smoke going everywhere.... and a fucked up transmission and rear end(it is locked side to side but goes straight fine) It still works.... Kind of.....

However, The last time was a budget build. I might have hit 500hp on a engine dyno, but, on a chassis dyno, It only hit like 375. It is time for that to change.

4.8 is going away.
Fuel system, gone.
4l60E, gone.
Rear end, just rebuilt.


In with the good ****.
AES 390ci.
Has,
Lots of good forged internals, They said a customer pushed one to 1200hp.
I am dead set on reliability.
So, If i feel the need to push 1000rwhp, All i need to do is completely redo my FI setup.
I plan on running it 9.5/1 compression to get the most out of my p1sc.

My stock fuel system, going to be replaced by something that can handle 1000rwhp without a hiccup. Duel pumps is a must.

Meth injection is a maybe.

317 heads. Ill let aes decide on the cam.

4l60E is out, And, i am considering a 6L80E and a Vig 3600 converter. I like the idea of 6 gears to cruise in. Reliability and gas mileage are things that I plan on having.


My 48lb injectors. Gone. In with 80lb/hr injectors.

When this build is complete, I plan on everything being able to handle 1000rwhp. But, Since im throwing money everywhere else, I will keep the p1sc and get everything possible out of it.

My guess, 550-600rwhp to start.

Ill update when parts arrive. Give a month.
Old 04-06-2011, 05:34 PM
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Sorry to hear about the 4.8, you already had a block that could handle your new build goal of 500-600 wheel, but you burned it up with 250 less HP. Hope you get your tuning figured out way before you turn the key on the new build.


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