5.3 600whp
Choo Choo... 
12-06-2015, 06:54 PM
#12
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12-06-2015, 07:26 PM
#13
First what will you be using the truck for? DD, pulling, hwy driving? All of the above? pump gas or E85? If you truly were looking to shell out the cash for those heads and intake/tb, I would just take that money and apply it to FI. You can build a 500-600hp truck on a budget. Since you already have the rear done that's a big plus. Now get a 4l80e/w crossmember, trans cooler, maybe a new driveshaft (not sure if the CC trucks can reuse the stockers without modification), and stall converter. That's pretty much it for drive train (I would recommend a TCI flexplate also). Then you need to upgrade the fuel system. This can be done cheap or expensive. I suggest you search the site to get better educated on the subject but at minimum a new fuel pump and injectors are in order. Next up is engine mods. You could keep the engine completely stock if you wish or a simple cam swap with springs and push rods are all that you need to do. Now supercharger or turbo. It's up to you based on how the truck is being used. If you're going turbo there are a few bolt on options. Trick, KB, On3, etc. This would be budget pending. Yes, On3 is cheaper but its not the same quality product as trick or kb. That being said, people are making good dependable power on On3 kits. You just need to determine how much of a budget you have. Then you have gauges, boost controller, meth kit, and other misc items. Plus a good tune. This all adds up quick depending on how far you want to go or if you want to use all "name brand" parts. I hope this helps and you get a better idea. Most seem to think that they are going to just bolt a turbo kit on and make 600+ rwhp. It's a little more to it than that!! Unfortunately, It's not that cheap....
Last edited by 03chevytruck; 12-06-2015 at 08:29 PM.
12-06-2015, 07:48 PM
#14
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First what will you be using the truck for? DD, pulling, hwy driving? All of the above? pump gas or E85? If you truly were looking to shell out the cash for those heads and intake/tb, I would just take that money and apply it to FI. You can build a 500-600hp truck on a budget. Since you already have the rear done that's a big plus. Now get a 4l80e/w crossmember, trans cooler, maybe a new driveshaft (not sure if the CC trucks can reuse the stockers without modification), and stall converter. That's pretty much it for drive train (I would recommend a TCI flexplate also). Then you need to upgrade the fuel system. This can be done cheap or expensive. I suggest you search the site to get better educated on the subject but at minimum a new fuel pump and injectors are in order. Next up is engine mods. You could keep the engine completely stock if you wish or a simple cam swap with springs and push rods are all that you need to do. Now supercharger or turbo. It's up to you based on how the truck is being used. If you're going turbo there are a few bolt on options. Trick, KB, On3, etc. This would be budget pending. Yes, On3 is cheaper but its not the same quality product as trick or kb. That being said, people are making good dependable power on On3 kits. You just need to determine how much of a budget you have. Then you have gauges, boost controller, meth kit, and other misc items. This all adds up quick depending on how far you want to go or if you want to use all "name brand" parts. I hope this helps and you get a better idea. Most seem to think that they are going to just bolt a turbo kit on and make 600+ rwhp. It's a little more to it than that!! Unfortunately, It's not that cheap....
12-06-2015, 07:50 PM
#15
Methanol injection kit. Its not a have to have but will keep the IAT's down. The more boost you make the higher the IAT's (Intake Air Temp) will rise. Once the IAT's get to a certain range detonation can occur so timing is pulled to prevent damage. Pulling timing equals losing power. Methanol will reduce the IAT so you can keep making power. Also a good intercooler is worth its weight in gold as it will keep the IAT's down. Getting a good intercooler is a must for me.
Last edited by 03chevytruck; 12-06-2015 at 08:09 PM.
12-06-2015, 08:05 PM
#16
To keep the 6k total budget you will have to make a few sacrafices like: 1. pick up a used kit or go On3. 2. Use factory stall or $500-$600 budget stall. 3. A stock 4l80e with shift kit(which is all you should need). The kb and trick kits alone will be over half your budget but they are WELL worth the money! I bought an On3 kit and have never used it. Its actually brand new still in the boxes. I'm going to be putting it up for sale just haven't gotten around to it. I would be using it but i want to make alot more power than i originally planned. Maybe Choda will chime in as for total cost. He has the combination that i think you should use just with the addition of a cam. He has a Trick kit which is VERY VERY dependable and will make the power you are looking for.
Also we still haven't factored in any suspension or traction aids to the equation yet. 2 wd with 600 rwhp on street tire with stock suspension equals zero traction so it would be pointless to spend the money to obtain 600hp and not have any money left to make it usable on the street.
My advise it to get in touch with KB Racing and Trick Performance to see what the actual kit will cost. The kit is just the beginning. The turbo kit was one of the cheapest things I've bought so far but I'm spending more money than i "HAVE" to because i want to be able to support around 900 rwhp.
Edit: I see you said you are getting a turbo for really cheap. What are specs of the turbo? What brand/size? Do you know if the turbo will even make enough power to get you to 600rwhp? Even if it will make the 600 goal is it to big and will have alot of lag for a DD?? Just things that you are going to need to know.
Also I would have a 1/8 or 1/4 mile ET goal as apposed to a RWHP goal. To me it doesn't matter how much hp im making if i cant run the times a want. Granted it takes hp to run faster et, I'm just saying dont get hung up on the 600 rwhp. How did you come up with this goal? What 1/4 mile ets do you want to run?
Also we still haven't factored in any suspension or traction aids to the equation yet. 2 wd with 600 rwhp on street tire with stock suspension equals zero traction so it would be pointless to spend the money to obtain 600hp and not have any money left to make it usable on the street.
My advise it to get in touch with KB Racing and Trick Performance to see what the actual kit will cost. The kit is just the beginning. The turbo kit was one of the cheapest things I've bought so far but I'm spending more money than i "HAVE" to because i want to be able to support around 900 rwhp.
Edit: I see you said you are getting a turbo for really cheap. What are specs of the turbo? What brand/size? Do you know if the turbo will even make enough power to get you to 600rwhp? Even if it will make the 600 goal is it to big and will have alot of lag for a DD?? Just things that you are going to need to know.
Also I would have a 1/8 or 1/4 mile ET goal as apposed to a RWHP goal. To me it doesn't matter how much hp im making if i cant run the times a want. Granted it takes hp to run faster et, I'm just saying dont get hung up on the 600 rwhp. How did you come up with this goal? What 1/4 mile ets do you want to run?
Last edited by 03chevytruck; 12-06-2015 at 08:39 PM.
12-06-2015, 08:45 PM
#17
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To keep the 6k total budget you will have to make a few sacrafices like: 1. pick up a used kit or go On3. 2. Use factory stall or $500-$600 budget stall. 3. A stock 4l80e with shift kit(which is all you should need). The kb and trick kits alone will be over half your budget but they are WELL worth the money! I bought an On3 kit and have never used it. Its actually brand new still in the boxes. I'm going to be putting it up for sale just haven't gotten around to it. I would be using it but i want to make alot more power than i originally planned. Maybe Choda will chime in as for total cost. He has the combination that i think you should use just with the addition of a cam. He has a Trick kit which is VERY VERY dependable and will make the power you are looking for.
Also we still haven't factored in any suspension or traction aids to the equation yet. 2 wd with 600 rwhp on street tire with stock suspension equals zero traction so it would be pointless to spend the money to obtain 600hp and not have any money left to make it usable on the street.
My advise it to get in touch with KB Racing and Trick Performance to see what the actual kit will cost. The kit is just the beginning. The turbo kit was one of the cheapest things I've bought so far but I'm spending more money than i "HAVE" to because i want to be able to support around 900 rwhp.
Edit: I see you said you are getting a turbo for really cheap. What are specs of the turbo? What brand/size? Do you know if the turbo will even make enough power to get you to 600rwhp? Even if it will make the 600 goal is it to big and will have alot of lag for a DD?? Just things that you are going to need to know.
Also I would have a 1/8 or 1/4 mile ET goal as apposed to a RWHP goal. To me it doesn't matter how much hp im making if i cant run the times a want. Granted it takes hp to run faster et, I'm just saying dont get hung up on the 600 rwhp. How did you come up with this goal? What 1/4 mile ets do you want to run?
Also we still haven't factored in any suspension or traction aids to the equation yet. 2 wd with 600 rwhp on street tire with stock suspension equals zero traction so it would be pointless to spend the money to obtain 600hp and not have any money left to make it usable on the street.
My advise it to get in touch with KB Racing and Trick Performance to see what the actual kit will cost. The kit is just the beginning. The turbo kit was one of the cheapest things I've bought so far but I'm spending more money than i "HAVE" to because i want to be able to support around 900 rwhp.
Edit: I see you said you are getting a turbo for really cheap. What are specs of the turbo? What brand/size? Do you know if the turbo will even make enough power to get you to 600rwhp? Even if it will make the 600 goal is it to big and will have alot of lag for a DD?? Just things that you are going to need to know.
Also I would have a 1/8 or 1/4 mile ET goal as apposed to a RWHP goal. To me it doesn't matter how much hp im making if i cant run the times a want. Granted it takes hp to run faster et, I'm just saying dont get hung up on the 600 rwhp. How did you come up with this goal? What 1/4 mile ets do you want to run?
12-06-2015, 09:35 PM
#18
TECH Junkie
I ran my time in sig on my 07 with I'm guessing 450-500 whp. My 14 probably 300 whp. If you are really wanting 600 (low 7's) its very doubtful it can happen for 6k unless you piece it together yourself. Also, reliability is based mostly on YOUR TUNE!!! I'm in another entirely different industry so it makes sense for me to pay someone else to do it. Not as much fun maybe but feasible. If you pay someone else probably more like 9-12k. 4l80 is key. Best of luck to you!
12-06-2015, 09:38 PM
#19
Yea i hear ya. I'm not building my truck to race at the track either but I do need it to run mid-high 10s 1/4 mile starting out because that's where I need to be to play with most cars around here. Then i will progress for low 10s and high 9s but that will be a little while. baby steps... I would recommend to take your time and save up more money vs going as cheap as possible. I'm not saying to cant do it for 6k, i'm saying if you do find yourself in the situation of the 6k not getting it done, save a little to do it right vs going the cheap route. That being said, with the purpose and goals you have, there are areas that i would encourage you to go cheaper on.
Just a few examples:
Get a stock 4l80e and get a shift kit put in it and a budget stall such as CircleD. That will save you THOUSANDS!
Do a simple fuel system. Something like a Walbro 255 fuel pump or something similar that won't overpower the stock FPR(fuel pressure regulator). Then if you find yourself needing more fuel later on if you ever want to make more power just add a second pump on a pressure switch(hobbs switch). This will allow you to keep everything else on the fuel system stock except fuel injectors. Get some 80lb injectors if you are using pump gas not E85.
Engine wise: As stated earlier get a cam kit $800ish (cam, valve springs, retainers, & push rods). This will make your hp goals easier to obtain and give you the low end you need to get into the power band of the turbo.
Depending on how much boost you will be using head studs will be needed with ls9 head gaskets. 1. You can get chinese studs for $100ish which are one time use only and well they are made in china so hit or miss on the quality (some people use them with great results and some people have had them break when torquing them down or removing them). 2. Get ARP head studs for $300ish which are made in the USA and can be reused. 3. Some people use ARP head BOLTS and just put more torque on them. They are $100ish. LS9 gaskets are $100ish for a set.
That being said, some people never change the head gaskets or bolts, they just keep them stock. Some lift the heads, some do not. That's something that you will have to decide.
Just a few tips for you to roll around to decide how you want to go about this build.
ALSO my most important tip. Look for a used KB Racing or Trick Performance kit. Used stall converter and trans. No shame in saving some coin on used parts!!
6k is a low budget for what you are wanting but if you hold out for some used parts than you might make it and still have a reliable setup. I would do that before i went with really cheap new parts!
Just a few examples:
Get a stock 4l80e and get a shift kit put in it and a budget stall such as CircleD. That will save you THOUSANDS!
Do a simple fuel system. Something like a Walbro 255 fuel pump or something similar that won't overpower the stock FPR(fuel pressure regulator). Then if you find yourself needing more fuel later on if you ever want to make more power just add a second pump on a pressure switch(hobbs switch). This will allow you to keep everything else on the fuel system stock except fuel injectors. Get some 80lb injectors if you are using pump gas not E85.
Engine wise: As stated earlier get a cam kit $800ish (cam, valve springs, retainers, & push rods). This will make your hp goals easier to obtain and give you the low end you need to get into the power band of the turbo.
Depending on how much boost you will be using head studs will be needed with ls9 head gaskets. 1. You can get chinese studs for $100ish which are one time use only and well they are made in china so hit or miss on the quality (some people use them with great results and some people have had them break when torquing them down or removing them). 2. Get ARP head studs for $300ish which are made in the USA and can be reused. 3. Some people use ARP head BOLTS and just put more torque on them. They are $100ish. LS9 gaskets are $100ish for a set.
That being said, some people never change the head gaskets or bolts, they just keep them stock. Some lift the heads, some do not. That's something that you will have to decide.
Just a few tips for you to roll around to decide how you want to go about this build.
ALSO my most important tip. Look for a used KB Racing or Trick Performance kit. Used stall converter and trans. No shame in saving some coin on used parts!!
6k is a low budget for what you are wanting but if you hold out for some used parts than you might make it and still have a reliable setup. I would do that before i went with really cheap new parts!
Last edited by 03chevytruck; 12-06-2015 at 10:15 PM.
12-07-2015, 01:17 AM
#20
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Yea i hear ya. I'm not building my truck to race at the track either but I do need it to run mid-high 10s 1/4 mile starting out because that's where I need to be to play with most cars around here. Then i will progress for low 10s and high 9s but that will be a little while. baby steps... I would recommend to take your time and save up more money vs going as cheap as possible. I'm not saying to cant do it for 6k, i'm saying if you do find yourself in the situation of the 6k not getting it done, save a little to do it right vs going the cheap route. That being said, with the purpose and goals you have, there are areas that i would encourage you to go cheaper on.
Just a few examples:
Get a stock 4l80e and get a shift kit put in it and a budget stall such as CircleD. That will save you THOUSANDS!
Do a simple fuel system. Something like a Walbro 255 fuel pump or something similar that won't overpower the stock FPR(fuel pressure regulator). Then if you find yourself needing more fuel later on if you ever want to make more power just add a second pump on a pressure switch(hobbs switch). This will allow you to keep everything else on the fuel system stock except fuel injectors. Get some 80lb injectors if you are using pump gas not E85.
Engine wise: As stated earlier get a cam kit $800ish (cam, valve springs, retainers, & push rods). This will make your hp goals easier to obtain and give you the low end you need to get into the power band of the turbo.
Depending on how much boost you will be using head studs will be needed with ls9 head gaskets. 1. You can get chinese studs for $100ish which are one time use only and well they are made in china so hit or miss on the quality (some people use them with great results and some people have had them break when torquing them down or removing them). 2. Get ARP head studs for $300ish which are made in the USA and can be reused. 3. Some people use ARP head BOLTS and just put more torque on them. They are $100ish. LS9 gaskets are $100ish for a set.
That being said, some people never change the head gaskets or bolts, they just keep them stock. Some lift the heads, some do not. That's something that you will have to decide.
Just a few tips for you to roll around to decide how you want to go about this build.
ALSO my most important tip. Look for a used KB Racing or Trick Performance kit. Used stall converter and trans. No shame in saving some coin on used parts!!
6k is a low budget for what you are wanting but if you hold out for some used parts than you might make it and still have a reliable setup. I would do that before i went with really cheap new parts!
Just a few examples:
Get a stock 4l80e and get a shift kit put in it and a budget stall such as CircleD. That will save you THOUSANDS!
Do a simple fuel system. Something like a Walbro 255 fuel pump or something similar that won't overpower the stock FPR(fuel pressure regulator). Then if you find yourself needing more fuel later on if you ever want to make more power just add a second pump on a pressure switch(hobbs switch). This will allow you to keep everything else on the fuel system stock except fuel injectors. Get some 80lb injectors if you are using pump gas not E85.
Engine wise: As stated earlier get a cam kit $800ish (cam, valve springs, retainers, & push rods). This will make your hp goals easier to obtain and give you the low end you need to get into the power band of the turbo.
Depending on how much boost you will be using head studs will be needed with ls9 head gaskets. 1. You can get chinese studs for $100ish which are one time use only and well they are made in china so hit or miss on the quality (some people use them with great results and some people have had them break when torquing them down or removing them). 2. Get ARP head studs for $300ish which are made in the USA and can be reused. 3. Some people use ARP head BOLTS and just put more torque on them. They are $100ish. LS9 gaskets are $100ish for a set.
That being said, some people never change the head gaskets or bolts, they just keep them stock. Some lift the heads, some do not. That's something that you will have to decide.
Just a few tips for you to roll around to decide how you want to go about this build.
ALSO my most important tip. Look for a used KB Racing or Trick Performance kit. Used stall converter and trans. No shame in saving some coin on used parts!!
6k is a low budget for what you are wanting but if you hold out for some used parts than you might make it and still have a reliable setup. I would do that before i went with really cheap new parts!