fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

loloone, have you gotten any Radix numbers or kills yet? Just curious
No numbers or kills as I've yet to even install it. That's why they're bustin my chops. I just figure this is my last chance (kinda sorta) brfore everything goes on top.

Cover stays. I want it to be an option if I want it off for track. I just thought someone knew the exact weight diff. My guess is a 5.3 iron weighs ~192#, but it may be high as 216. I've no idea on what an alum. LS block weighs, but I'll guess 125 til someone tells me a number.

I was actually lookin for the RPO codes for the engines. IIRC, I saw it on PT before. It breaks em done by RPO, cubes & yrs. But your link I looked at too.

Roger, I gotcha on the torque takin care of it.

I'm not sellin the Radix!
Not gonna happen.
As I said above to loloone, I figure I won't touch it once the Radix is on. So, it's now or never. Of course, it could change depending on some factors (meaning after Radix is on, it could always be removed for a motor build) then put back on.

I've no proof of your said "faster" setup. Your sig has remained @ 13.8. I could get a NX kit, ppop it on pre Radix & beat that. Unless u have somethin you're not tellin me?!

Joe, we'll do Milan.
If the weather cooperates, I soon wanna do some pre-Radix stuff. I want it done, then Radix.

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

I wouldn't go aluminum to justify 70 lbs.. Thats alot of freaking work..

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

Ben, that's what I'd wanna do, stay same head design. Any ideas on what I'd be lookin at $-wise? And what I'd need to convert over to LS2?

IDK that I'm necessarily gonna do this. Maybe I will, maybe not at all, or not just at this moment. I like to do my homework in advance, esp. if I need to find a block that is hard to come by.
I'm tryin to retain it's handling manners, even after the Radix goes on, & I really like how it handles presently. I don't wanna disrupt that balance. I know u value a liteweight fighter, as I do. I just wish I could remove nose weight.

I however won't be guttin doorbeams or that kinda extreme ****.

Even tho it's at the wrong end, I wouldn't be opposed to a rollpan. In winter, I could + hitch to protect from bumps on backside. Day to day I could too, but it kinda defeats the purpose of a pan & the look. Risk vs reward.

Cody, is it the motor that's hard to find or the reluctor wheel?
Or both?

I need what, a 24 tooth to be compatible w/. my current setup? Or 58?

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

To cut weight off the truck, cut the frame rails, def do away with the front brakes

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

John, honestly I'm not afraid of the work. Guys have done a lot more to get desired results for weight savings or otherwise. Because other than hookups & mounting reservoirs to the Maggie, fuel bucket & wiring work, it then just becomes a intk swap. Tune yes I know, & I may be oversimplyfying a bit, u know what I'm sayin.

I just need to know the RPO codes for Gen3 alum. 5.3s & 6L's. Be it LH6 or LY6 or whatever they are. Gotta have those cathedral port head design tho.

Altho someone said they feel the built tranny will go bye bye if I combine a 6L w/. Radix.

TrailLaser

iTrader: (2)

FYI: 24x LS2's were also in the late SSR's and 06 TBSS..

IMO, If the retaining the radix is your ultimate goal, a built 370/ls2 would prolly best suit it..

IIRC the weight factors, I went with a sleeved ls2 since the s/c will almost make up the diff of the iron block by itself.. Call it preference, I'd take an aluminum block over an iron one anyday..

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

When I saw u replied, I thought, ohhh, I forgot bout the TBSS's. Is there a particular RPO code or just find a '06 TBSS block? So now, we're talkin bout how many '06 TBSS to pick from & hope their block is in a yard?

And I'd be lookin at how much $ ??

See red part. By that do u mean what I'm about to say next? ...
I weighed box 1 & 2 cardboard boxes & all = 84#.

So lets say an alum. blk. is 70# lighter. I look at it as only as 14# penalty (84-70=14) to run a Radix & a alum blk., get addt'l HP & TQ from blower & run an alum. blk. to offset the weight. Is that what you're sayin? Cause that's sure what I'm thinkin.

And 14# is a small weight increase on handling, but w/. ~100-135 HP & TQ.

BTW, Laser why did u sleeve an LS2? Radical boost or stroker?

TrailLaser

iTrader: (2)

^^ Yes, sleeved/built it for boost (427)..

If I recall right, it was closer to 100-lb difference (alum vs lsx), not sure about the reg chevy iron blocks weight though..

You could always build/buy a short block and swap everything over.. Much cheaper than trying to fing a salvage and rebuilding it..

fastnblu

iTrader: (2)

That's all I really want is the block. And maybe crank & if I need whatever reluctor wheel, so be it.

So, from a price standpoint, better to score a LS2 block from ScogginDickey, run a factory crank, & then run pistons of choice for boost & whatever rods. And then from there, swap over all accessories.

Cause if I got really serious, I'm gonna swap pistons anyway. And yes I know, Radix is boost limited. All that leaves would be a blower cam like a GT2-3.

So the way I normally do things, it gonna cost me to get the good parts I'd want...
~$1200 LS blk
$600-900 pistons + rings
$600-1400 rod

Not sure how much a factory crank would be. Or a reluctor whl.
And then some gaskets.

I know I'm leaving somethin out. Some ARP rod bolts & that conversion kit to convert it to LS2, I wanna say SD sells it for ~$315.

So just a quick looksee, I'd be lookin ~$4300 to get it where I'd feel confident to pound on it.

indigo s10

iTrader: (2)

L33 is the code for the aluminum flat top piston 325 cube 5.3. Came in 05-06 ext, and crew cab 4x4's and Z71's.