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Alum. blocks for boost

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Old 05-06-2011, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by TrailLaser
^^ 100-lbs = about a .100 in the 1/4.. Comes in handy when you're chasing weight reduction later..

PS- I dont like rust, weight, or heat... Aluminum solves that too.. Just say'n..

_
We just fundamentally think different I guess, I never take anything off at the track. I run it like I do on the street. The numbers when you remove everything but the kitchen sink aren't really reflective of the true performance of your vehicle otherwise should've just started with a lighter vehicle. The actual difference between the blocks is closer to 70#s, not enough to really make any difference and damn sure not enough to warrant going with an entirely new motor. The only reason one day I'll go aluminum is because I want the big 4.065 bore and you can only get that in an aluminum block without going to the really expensive blocks.
Old 05-06-2011, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
We just fundamentally think different I guess, I never take anything off at the track. I run it like I do on the street.
I agree Cody, i too like to run my vehicles as they are driven everyday so i have an honest number. Although it is tempting to see what the best time you could get is with some weight reduction.

But if your just building a max effort strip vehicle, then that 70'#s becomes important, but like said thats a lot of work to change to alum for no reason other than to save weight.

It just depends on what is important to the end user.
Old 05-06-2011, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
LMAO ! HUBRIS !!!
That's Dr. Hubris to you.
Old 05-06-2011, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
We just fundamentally think different I guess, I never take anything off at the track. I run it like I do on the street. The numbers when you remove everything but the kitchen sink aren't really reflective of the true performance of your vehicle otherwise should've just started with a lighter vehicle. The actual difference between the blocks is closer to 70#s, not enough to really make any difference and damn sure not enough to warrant going with an entirely new motor. The only reason one day I'll go aluminum is because I want the big 4.065 bore and you can only get that in an aluminum block without going to the really expensive blocks.
Originally Posted by TIM Z
I agree Cody, i too like to run my vehicles as they are driven everyday so i have an honest number. Although it is tempting to see what the best time you could get is with some weight reduction.

But if your just building a max effort strip vehicle, then that 70'#s becomes important, but like said thats a lot of work to change to alum for no reason other than to save weight.

It just depends on what is important to the end user.
I used to be a huge advocate of race what you drive, but then I wanted to break 12.7, then 12.2, then 12.0, then 11.7, then 11.6, and now 11.3 damn it! I am hooked, I admit it. LOL

terver1t's little aluminum 5.3 shuts me up when I want to argue that aluminum isn't worth it.
Old 05-06-2011, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
LMAO ! HUBRIS !!!

Hey Tom, is the Radix on yet?

Seriously, once it is installed you will forget all about this thread for real. You wont be able to keep rear tires on as is with all the goodies you have.
Originally Posted by dmelvin
That's Dr. Hubris to you.
I meant to comment on that too. LMFAO! Thought I'd never see another hubris reference.
Old 05-06-2011, 09:37 AM
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Add more power if you want to go faster. Look what stock48 has done with a pretty much full weight truck. I'll admit I'm also too lazy to pull a bunch of crap out of the truck so that's another reason

If I pulled all the chains and tools out of my tool box I'd probably drop half a second

It's all in what you're after
Old 05-06-2011, 09:51 AM
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I don't know if I'd want to spend the $ to go from Iron 5.3 to Alum 5.3 ... I'd listen to the guy who said LS6....for pretty much similar cost those extra few cubes ...

There's no denying that the L33 is a workhorse. With the higher compression and better heads it's a win win if that's the hand you were delt

90lbs off the front end makes a huge difference. Hell, a lot of guys relocate the battery so why would you think dropping 90lbs a small deal?
Old 05-06-2011, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
I'll admit I'm also too lazy to pull a bunch of crap out of the truck so that's another reason


It's all in what you're after
you and me both! Ask anybody how long it takes me to remove anything. Then ask them how long it takes before I put it back. LOL I have been known to show up on job sites with no seats besides the driver seat, 5 months after racing season.
Old 05-06-2011, 04:53 PM
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I wouldn’t spend the time, effort and dollars for a straight up swap to aluminum 5.3L to increase straight line performance, but we have to remember that Tom also put handling as one of his points of importance and the weight from the front end would be appreciated, especially in conjunction with the added weight of the Radix if he ever gets it installed.

On the other hand if I were to consider swapping out the short-block for aluminum version, it would damn sure be for one of larger capacity. I’m with 1slow01Z71 in that I would try to pick up either an LS3/L92 or at least an LS2 short-block or even bare block to build up over time, while also keeping total displacement in check so that the little 112 can feed it somewhat decently.
Old 05-06-2011, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by dewmanshu
you and me both! Ask anybody how long it takes me to remove anything. Then ask them how long it takes before I put it back. LOL I have been known to show up on job sites with no seats besides the driver seat, 5 months after racing season.
LMAO one seat ! Thats epic diehard for sure!!

I too am too lazy/busy to remove/install seats & stuff all the time. But if it means i can get an 11 sec. time slip then i might do it.


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