When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
In order to get my seal puller in the tight spot for the pinion seal, I dropped the stabilizer bar. Looks like poop, may as well polish the turd. This is the pile of rust I needle scaled and quickly sanded off the bar. Self-etching primer. A little black paint. Back in black Bar reinstalled with new bushings.
I am really curious to see how the LSA converter does. I have been wanting to get one for my 2011 L9H Sierra Denali, stock motor with a GT45, but I missed my chance when I pulled my transmission out and haven't had another engine or transmission pull out session to take advantage of. I think I remember the price being somewhat reasonable, which it should for a OEM GM part, I think I remember maybe around $400 or so but maybe $600 by the time you pay for shipping and a core charge if you send back in a JMBX converter.
I want to see how it stalls behind your setup, I am hoping one would be enough for me to get above my GT45 boost threshold. I don't have any issues in the winter, but in the summer heat and humidity I can sit there all day and barely get 1 or 2 psi of boost trying to brake stall it for 30 seconds or longer. In the winter within about 5-10 seconds I can hit 4-5 psi easily. I am really trying to avoid going to an aftermarket convertor. I have found Circle D's rattle and make a lot of noise in park/neutral with the way the clutches are stack and held together inside the convertor. I also had issues with the lockup on a Circle D I got for my 6th gen Camaro 8L90 and I finally got Circle D to take it back and they rebuilt it apparently, but after getting it back I decided it wasn't worth it to pull the engine again and risk the lockup not working for whatever reason and having to pull the engine or transmission again.
Did you have a rear 6L80 planetary/carrier break? I had a few teeth break off on mine. I pulled mine apart and found a supposedly OEM carrier assembly on eBay for a couple hundred, clutches and everything else looked fine when I took it apart with 250k on it, so I put some Sonnax valve body upgrades and put everything back in. I ended up finding the rear output gear on the BW4485 transfer case had a broken tooth only in one part of the gear, just like the 6L80 planetary/carrier had. So I came to the conclusion that the teeth were broken when the truck was rear ended. I bought it wrecked and fixed it and someone had rear ended and totaled it and bent part of the rear frame where the trailer hitch attaches so all the crash energy went straight into the frame then to the axles and back through the driveline and killed a set of teeth on the gear. You could see where the one teeth was broken off and the tooth next to that one had indents on it and progressively got less indented as you went to the next few teeth, the other parts of the gear looked fined with no wear, pitting or fatigue marks, so that was the only explanation that made sense to me, especially since both the rear planetary on the 6L80 did it along with the output sun gear on the BW4485.
I am really curious to see how the LSA converter does. I have been wanting to get one for my 2011 L9H Sierra Denali, stock motor with a GT45, but I missed my chance when I pulled my transmission out and haven't had another engine or transmission pull out session to take advantage of. I think I remember the price being somewhat reasonable, which it should for a OEM GM part, I think I remember maybe around $400 or so but maybe $600 by the time you pay for shipping and a core charge if you send back in a JMBX converter.
I want to see how it stalls behind your setup, I am hoping one would be enough for me to get above my GT45 boost threshold. I don't have any issues in the winter, but in the summer heat and humidity I can sit there all day and barely get 1 or 2 psi of boost trying to brake stall it for 30 seconds or longer. In the winter within about 5-10 seconds I can hit 4-5 psi easily. I am really trying to avoid going to an aftermarket convertor. I have found Circle D's rattle and make a lot of noise in park/neutral with the way the clutches are stack and held together inside the convertor. I also had issues with the lockup on a Circle D I got for my 6th gen Camaro 8L90 and I finally got Circle D to take it back and they rebuilt it apparently, but after getting it back I decided it wasn't worth it to pull the engine again and risk the lockup not working for whatever reason and having to pull the engine or transmission again.
Did you have a rear 6L80 planetary/carrier break? I had a few teeth break off on mine. I pulled mine apart and found a supposedly OEM carrier assembly on eBay for a couple hundred, clutches and everything else looked fine when I took it apart with 250k on it, so I put some Sonnax valve body upgrades and put everything back in. I ended up finding the rear output gear on the BW4485 transfer case had a broken tooth only in one part of the gear, just like the 6L80 planetary/carrier had. So I came to the conclusion that the teeth were broken when the truck was rear ended. I bought it wrecked and fixed it and someone had rear ended and totaled it and bent part of the rear frame where the trailer hitch attaches so all the crash energy went straight into the frame then to the axles and back through the driveline and killed a set of teeth on the gear. You could see where the one teeth was broken off and the tooth next to that one had indents on it and progressively got less indented as you went to the next few teeth, the other parts of the gear looked fined with no wear, pitting or fatigue marks, so that was the only explanation that made sense to me, especially since both the rear planetary on the 6L80 did it along with the output sun gear on the BW4485.
I'm curious as well, I'd expect a small difference in stall. Looking around it's commonly advertised as 2000-2400rpm. I went with a cam that's said to work just fine with the stock converter but that little extra could be nice, not to mention dual disc and I like the idea of 6 bolts.
I got it through RockAuto, $421 - (there are ALWAYS 5% discount codes avail.) + $16 shipping a few months ago. I shipped the JMBX back and was refunded for the core.
Interesting about yours. This truck was at 110,000 miles never had any transmission related issues (was 100% stock) the only thing we ever did was I had done the trans filter/fluid at 80k. When the engine was out and this snowballed into a 700hp? project I elected to send the trans to Circle D and avoid the inevitable. It's 100% a street truck so I went with stage 2.5 to keep the driveability near stock but added the billet planetary because of the nature of AWD plus 5,500-ish? pounds. I think of a 6L80 equipped car (rwd) spinning the tires on the street so mostly not loading the drivetrain fully.....then I think of an AWD truck that isn't going to spin tires and has another 1500+ pounds. Really anxious to get this running. Fuel pump module (being manufactured) and headers (at Jet-Hot) are the last 2 pieces to the puzzle.
Magnuson wants us to chop the IAT wires at the connector, then take some wire and crimp butt connectors and double back to the IAT sensor on the driver's side of the blower. Instead I undid the factory MAF harness loom and pulled the wires back. I had a 2 pin weather pack connector so I pinned that so it can be disconnected.
Intercooler hoses protected with some looming I got locally.
Transmission shift cables look less than stellar. I bought new upper and lower GM cables and installed them.
ARP stainless header studs installed. Waiting for Jet-Hot 2000 coated Stainless Works headers.
I'm a creature of habit. Here in Maine we get crazy corrosion from road salt and GM truck inner fender liners always allow road brine to splash onto the manifolds/exhaust. I like being able to put the gasket on the studs while I hang the header, I like being able to hang the header on the studs during assembly/disassembly. I like the more consistent torque on stud by only twisting on 1axis with a nut vs a bolt. I like stainless and the look, also like the idea that such a small (M8) fastener (and only 6/bank) and not be so hard on the soft aluminum threads of the heads. They look great. I throw on a little copper anti-seize (cyl head end) and screw them in.....if I ever have to remove them they conveniently have a 3mm Allen drive on the end (female)
I've used them on quite a few projects. I feel better about torquing a stainless (usually falls in line with grade 5 aka 8.8 class) stud (on exhaust) than I do a 10.9 class bolt (falls in line with grade 8)
08-17-2024, 06:25 PM
