Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?
#101
Wish I had the dough for those, I'm totally impressed with Crane/Vinci's products
Sounding like an epic affair Tom, hope the rest of the job goes along more smoothly. Might want to buy one oil pump o-ring for every pocket that you have so at least one of them makes the seven mile trip this time
Sounding like an epic affair Tom, hope the rest of the job goes along more smoothly. Might want to buy one oil pump o-ring for every pocket that you have so at least one of them makes the seven mile trip this time
I see you got your sense of humor back. Glad u have some sense of some kind.
Of couse, your present situation, maybe it's cents.
Also, anybody know the p/n from GM for those hose clamps. When workin yesterday, I heard metal hit the floor. Come to find out, the clamp had snapped in 2.
Gives me another item to pick up from dlr. when I get my O-ring...again.
I almost thought of gettin some keepers & throw in my toolbox, just for spares. You never know.
#103
Good one, Mike.
I have somethin I'm really concerned about. My stock bolt is 110 mm long. Is it true I need a bolt 120 mm to get harmonic started?
I sure don't wanna buy the longer ARP just to use for this use, altho I could, I was hoping for a cheaper alternative than a $25-30 ARP. Otherwise, had i known this, I mighta just gotten the ARP even tho it's 5x as much as a TQ-yield stocker. Ideas?
A big part of the reason this concerns me is I've got to get that timing seal on square w/o the special J-tools. I was just gonna try a pc. of wood to press against seal, eye it up & hope for the best.
Then, eye up my timing cover to pan & again hope it stays square.
Anyone see a problem w/. any of these ideas or have they done it?
I have somethin I'm really concerned about. My stock bolt is 110 mm long. Is it true I need a bolt 120 mm to get harmonic started?
I sure don't wanna buy the longer ARP just to use for this use, altho I could, I was hoping for a cheaper alternative than a $25-30 ARP. Otherwise, had i known this, I mighta just gotten the ARP even tho it's 5x as much as a TQ-yield stocker. Ideas?
A big part of the reason this concerns me is I've got to get that timing seal on square w/o the special J-tools. I was just gonna try a pc. of wood to press against seal, eye it up & hope for the best.
Then, eye up my timing cover to pan & again hope it stays square.
Anyone see a problem w/. any of these ideas or have they done it?
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-13-2010 at 11:24 AM.
#105
Where did u get your 120mm setup from?
I wanna get back to workin on my truck after it just sat over the last 3-4 days. Once springs are done, & rockers, I'll be lookin fwd. to buttoning the timing cover up & installing balancer, so I can throw it all back together.
I wanna get back to workin on my truck after it just sat over the last 3-4 days. Once springs are done, & rockers, I'll be lookin fwd. to buttoning the timing cover up & installing balancer, so I can throw it all back together.
#106
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
just joking.
110mm is fine.
I used a M16x2.0x110 grade 10.8 bolt from NAPA. It cost like $8 or something like that.
The most important thing is to make sure the balancer is on straight. If you experience any increase in resistance to turning the crank bolt immediately stop and back it out.
110mm is fine.
I used a M16x2.0x110 grade 10.8 bolt from NAPA. It cost like $8 or something like that.
The most important thing is to make sure the balancer is on straight. If you experience any increase in resistance to turning the crank bolt immediately stop and back it out.
#109
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (27)
what installer are you talking about?
I baked my balancer like a cake @ 250 or 300 degrees for 20 minutes. Some people have said that the balancer will just slide onto the crank fully using this method, but not for me. It went on a bit and it was good enough to get the bolt in there and crank it down.
I baked my balancer like a cake @ 250 or 300 degrees for 20 minutes. Some people have said that the balancer will just slide onto the crank fully using this method, but not for me. It went on a bit and it was good enough to get the bolt in there and crank it down.