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Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?

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Old 09-16-2010, 05:59 AM
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the alignment of the seal comes from the crank and the front cover. your seal will be new, so it will match the crank/front cover....if you reuse the old seal the hole might be silghtly bigger from wear and cause a leak.

you sound like you are doing good...are you interested in hitting up milan for a rental and get some good runs? throw the radix in the bed and well throw it on between runs
Old 09-17-2010, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
The Crane 1.8's don't use the girdle. I'm not sure about the Comps. Check with their tech dept if you don't have the instruction manual. Might even find a pdf install manual on their website.

As for your front cover, it has dowel pins to line it up. Some will say you need to install the crank pulley to center it up first, but that's b.s. The dowel pins align it properly. Unless your block has had the main journals re-ground, you're good to go.
I had a feeling u might mention your Crane 1.8's & w/o this issue too.
Nothing has been touched inside til now, so correct, journals are bone stock. Ya, I'll need to look into some info on their site, just haven't gotten to it, yet.

I didn't realize there were dowel pins, but I wasn't lookin either. Plus, some work has been done in poor lighting. I'llwon't do a cam swap w/. crappy lighting, again! Lesson learned, it just takes away time from workin. If I dropped a tool, I had to grab my droplight to llok for it, not to mention constantly movin it to get a better look. I also was searching for tools. I gotta get 1 of those nifty trays that mounts on top of engine like NASCAR uses, rather than havin stuff slide off my fender covers.

Originally Posted by OnyxSilveradoSS
the alignment of the seal comes from the crank and the front cover. your seal will be new, so it will match the crank/front cover....if you reuse the old seal the hole might be silghtly bigger from wear and cause a leak.

you sound like you are doing good...are you interested in hitting up milan for a rental and get some good runs? throw the radix in the bed and well throw it on between runs
No reused seal here. I wouldn't say I was doin good, but moving along in the right direction. I learned some things along the way. I encountered some problems but that's part of the deal. I got frustrated & took a few days away after being disheartened. I also had some part runs & tool chasing.

Come to find out the other night while finishing up springs, that #7 plug wire was broke in 2 (just behind the plug end of boot). Wonder how long that has been damaged?
I think I just finished it off, cause I saw only a strand of wire pokin out of boot. Went to GM dealer today to pick up my hose clamp. I asked on a plug wire, & found they come in 2 lengths, 9 1/2/ & 10 1/2. Only the 10 1/2 is stocked, so I'll bet I have the other.
$16 sounds like a lot just for 1 plug wire.

Joe, not sure if I can do the track rental. When & how much? I gotta finish this 1st, as u know.

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-19-2010 at 08:02 AM. Reason: Clarity
Old 09-18-2010, 07:32 AM
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same happened with me Tom, had a bad wire that I only found when I was swapping stuff. It was giving me a random miss...I can save you $16 for some stock wires I read guys like the vette factory wires b/c the boot has a 90 to clear headers.

I'll give you a maggie/raidx t-shirt if you get you chit done for the rental (cough radix cough)

the plasma/mig I picked up is all miller...think the plasma is a cutmate? just got my gas set-up last night and am going to practice on some tubing I have....couugh boost cough
Old 09-19-2010, 08:11 AM
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I got the new pushrods in, girdles on, rockers cinched down all proper, valve covers & coil packs on. All torqued, cause that's how I roll. I'm not gonna be able to mod my covers & put in my Comp 1.75s due to some, ahh, circumstances. I just left the big white coil plug off for now.

Also, I cleaned my valve covers, at least they little a lil better. They were filthy, all covered in an oily grit.

I still have to install timing cover seal, oil pan (I've got that J tool to align it, just gotta figure out what way it goes. I believe the notch is cutout for the pickup. Then the harmonic install. The hard parts of the job are left, then I'm not too worried from that point.
Old 09-19-2010, 10:13 AM
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for as long as you've had it down, i would leave those coils unplugged or disable the injectors and turn it over a couple times to pump up the lifters and get oil movin, but thats just me.

and sorry i missed your call, didnt recognize it and didnt check the voicemail till way later..
now hurry up already, dont think i can wait another week for the longest cam swap in history..
Old 09-19-2010, 10:35 AM
  #126  
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I was gonna leave the coils off, hence the white plug stays off til it's done. I turned it over when I rotated it to tightened rockers down. Wouldn't that be good enuff?

Now u know the number, answer it!

Wow, didn't see that coming.
Of course I did. I knew someone would say it. I've a lot goin on between work, home; the truck had to be put on hold for various reasons. Sometimes, things don't go as planned, & a lot has been goin wrong for me lately. I had to back away for a while after getting frustrated. But now I gotta finish it up. Cause my brother comes home tonight; surprise, we're coming home early.

Man, do I need my own garage / place.

I also need this cam to actually show me some decent results.

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-19-2010 at 06:31 PM.
Old 09-19-2010, 06:46 PM
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This whole job has not gone well. The latest fiasco was broking the 1 real long bolt off in the rear cover. All I had to do was that 1 & the same on the driver's side. I had all the others torqued down, & these ones were coated in oil. It seemed like it was taking more to torque these last 2 that were oil-saturated. I shoulda just quit when I felt they were at an acceptable point, even tho I hadn't reached torque.

To those reading, & not havin done a cam before, do yourself a favor & learn from my mistakes(s). Get a longer cam bolt or some threaded rod, cause it ain't happening w/. the stock bolt for me.

I shoulda listened to the bright chap from Texas. That's twice now. I decided because I only needed 8" or so of stock, that it wasn't cost-effective to buy a meter (since that's the size it comes) only to cut it & use what I'd need. I just had to be a cheapskate. Cause neither my BluePoint nor my rental installer gets it.

In hindsight, maybe I shoulda just rocked the stock 75k chain, cause I wouldn't have had to dick w/. oil pump, drain oil & filter, nor drop the lil pickup bolt in pan nor fight starting that pickup bolt back in, that long bolt would still be a long bolt.

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-19-2010 at 06:52 PM.
Old 09-20-2010, 09:14 AM
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remember the smaller stuff is measured in INCH pounds...easy to over tighten the small stuff...

So you have an oil pan bolt stuck in the rear cover? I am sorry for not being much actual help, had a wedding this weekend when you called...I am down to give a hand...you need some easy outs??
Old 09-20-2010, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by OnyxSilveradoSS
remember the smaller stuff is measured in INCH pounds...easy to over tighten the small stuff...

So you have an oil pan bolt stuck in the rear cover? I am sorry for not being much actual help, had a wedding this weekend when you called...I am down to give a hand...you need some easy outs??
Joe, ya I know the inch lbs. vs ft. lbs. thing. It coulda been that they were wet, like I said, but I think I read 18 ft. lbs. for timing cover & the 2 that go into timing cover from bottom (actually the oil pan). I torqued all the oil pan bolts to 18 ft. lbs, including the back 2 long ones. Those long ones are actually M6; they're supposed to be 106 inch lbs. I went w/. the wrong specs. That manual has so many specs in there, I thought I was reading the correct name. Kinda like how an overflow tank is now a coolant recovery tank.

So, yes, that long pan bolt is broke off in rear cover. If I had just stopped when I had an inkling that something was up, I woulda been OK.

So, for now, this is gonna have to work. Not how I like to do things, but I'm outta a garage now.
Old 09-20-2010, 09:51 PM
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On a bright note, ...


































IT's ALIVE!!!

Took it out tonight. Fired it up, started 1st try!

Since I drained oil & filter, I started & quickly shut it down. That way, I figure I get a lil oil thru its veins. I do this anytime I change oil, cause I figure it's kinda like a poor man's pre-luber. It might not do anything, but I feel better about it. I think 85% of engine wear is startup. I know I heard or read something like that, but it may be a different number.

It idled fine. A lil smoke, I thought it was oil on headers, but I had wiped em. I took out a bright LED flasglight, & found culprit. On Dynatech 1st design, header #5 kicks up around steering; they later fixed this. I had tie-wrapped #5 / #7 to ea. other, not so that touch ea. other, just to not touch headers. I never snipped excess. It melted some excess that remained, & I tightened it up, & snipped it good.

So, I put into D, it stalls. I finally get it rollin, 2 footin it. It stalls or drops down idle in D to 300 rpms & cuts out. So, til it's tuned, I'll 2 foot it.
For how it sits, it's got some giddy up. I can't imagine what a tune will do.

I have a few to thank. First off, my good buddy Jarrod.

I called him bunches, askin some things over a few times. He beared w/. me, & helped keep my spirits up when I was down.

And to all others that helped, a big thank you!!!

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-20-2010 at 10:07 PM.


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