Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?
09-03-2010, 10:10 PM
#21
The guy that does my dyno & some tuning for me said, the dowel rods aren't 100% reliable. He said to take heads off, then throw some ARP hardware on. He said do that, take off headers & intk, cause it'll take about the same amount of time, is not gonna drop any parts in motor & be way easier to change springs on a bench. Sounds like a lot of extra chit to me, IMO.
09-03-2010, 10:13 PM
#22
depending on how he ran it on the dyno, the additional torque could be from the higher STR ratio of the converter compared to the stock unit.
Everyone says FI burns up cats....well ive had my two high-flow magnaflows (spun type) on for 6 months with my blower and havent had any issues....although they are a bit further back than normal.
Everyone says FI burns up cats....well ive had my two high-flow magnaflows (spun type) on for 6 months with my blower and havent had any issues....although they are a bit further back than normal.
I mentioned the spun metallics, & he said no matter what he's seen come in, they eventually melt down. You by chance got a p/n & price on those spun metallic Magnaflows?
Also, he isn't a Maggie fan, not at all. Said turbos are more efficient. I said I have the Radix, so it will remain a key component. Too much heat soak.
I replied, I know. So, as I type, I'm wondering if maybe he's mixing up when he's been dynog / tuning turbos, cause their heat could prolly melt some **** down. But he did say, supercharger. I could feel the heat my hi flow cats tho, & he said, he could smell my cats from up in the truck.
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-03-2010 at 10:20 PM.
09-03-2010, 10:13 PM
#23
That may be true on the #'s between the 2 stalls, but I thought I'd see a gain at track. Something. I expected a better 60" at least. if not better 1/4. I didn't tune for trans / stall whatsoever, but still. I had the Snugtop on at my last 1/4 mile outing; my lil jack & spare I tried removing, but that didn't do squat.
Nor did I dink w/. my QA1s on rear. Just like I run on street.
My best run, I actually had my hood down, but forgot to slam it shut once we finally got to run. I got lucky it didn't fly open. After that, I think the tuning to prevent the converter gettin too hot was hurtin me. Cause later runs were close together & time was running short.
Those numbers u said, are u sayin w/. cam only, cause no way. Cam & Radix, that seems possible tho.
Nor did I dink w/. my QA1s on rear. Just like I run on street.
My best run, I actually had my hood down, but forgot to slam it shut once we finally got to run. I got lucky it didn't fly open. After that, I think the tuning to prevent the converter gettin too hot was hurtin me. Cause later runs were close together & time was running short.
Those numbers u said, are u sayin w/. cam only, cause no way. Cam & Radix, that seems possible tho.
09-03-2010, 10:16 PM
#24
The guy that does my dyno & some tuning for me said, the dowel rods aren't 100% reliable. He said to take heads off, then throw some ARP hardware on. He said do that, take off headers & intk, cause it'll take about the same amount of time, is not gonna drop any parts in motor & be way easier to change springs on a bench. Sounds like a lot of extra chit to me, IMO.
The wood dowel rods work perfectly. I took mine, cut them at 24" I believe (about an inch sticking out of the block), and I rounded off one end on the concrete so it was pointing like a screw. Then I covered the wood in motor oil to prevent any wood filings from getting into the motor.
09-03-2010, 10:19 PM
#26
Mine are the 3" 59959, I think. The part number is all 5's and 9s. About $90 each I think. I have my exhaust designed so that in case they do cause problems, they are right next to a flange so I can hollow them out without hacking up my exhaust (thanks CurtD).
Pulling the heads for a cam swap is ridiculous, and unless you plan to run 15+ lbs of boost or just feel like spending money, you dont need head studs. I only have them because they came with my shortblock for free.
09-03-2010, 10:32 PM
#27
The puller like what was pictured earlier was most likely the OTC 6267 GM / Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Puller and typically goes for about $58.00 on the street. While of course they can be picked up at numerous locations (possibly even cheaper), one of the places with the best price is from ntxtools dot com.
Features:
• Applies to GM, 1999 Generation III 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L and 8,1L V-8’s.
Also works on Cadillac 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.9L V-8’s beginning in 1988.
• Chrysler engines beginning in 1990 thru 2002 can be serviced including 2.0L, 2.4L L-4’s. Plus 2.5L, 2.7L, 3.3L, 3.5L and 3.8L V-6’s.
Kit Includes:
• 3-jaw puller
• Three lengths of forcing rods
• Forcing screw with 3/8” square drive for ratchet use.
For an installer I also use another OTC product, the OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller & Installer Set and you can normally pick one up for under $70.00.
Features:
• For easy removal of harmonic balancers and drive pulleys which are press-fitted onto the crank-shaft. A bearing-centered circular 2/3-way and an assortment of metric and fractional sized bolts and adapters provide wide coverage.
• A heavy-duty ¾” diameter forcing screw is internally threaded to fit the eight adapters to install harmonic balancers. Adapter sizes included: M16 x 2.0, M14 x 1.5, M12 x 1.5, ½”-20, 7/16”-20, ¾”-16, 5/8”-18 and 9/16”-18.
• A blow molded plastic storage case keeps contents organized and protected from loss.
Features:
• Applies to GM, 1999 Generation III 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L and 8,1L V-8’s.
Also works on Cadillac 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.9L V-8’s beginning in 1988.
• Chrysler engines beginning in 1990 thru 2002 can be serviced including 2.0L, 2.4L L-4’s. Plus 2.5L, 2.7L, 3.3L, 3.5L and 3.8L V-6’s.
Kit Includes:
• 3-jaw puller
• Three lengths of forcing rods
• Forcing screw with 3/8” square drive for ratchet use.
For an installer I also use another OTC product, the OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller & Installer Set and you can normally pick one up for under $70.00.
Features:
• For easy removal of harmonic balancers and drive pulleys which are press-fitted onto the crank-shaft. A bearing-centered circular 2/3-way and an assortment of metric and fractional sized bolts and adapters provide wide coverage.
• A heavy-duty ¾” diameter forcing screw is internally threaded to fit the eight adapters to install harmonic balancers. Adapter sizes included: M16 x 2.0, M14 x 1.5, M12 x 1.5, ½”-20, 7/16”-20, ¾”-16, 5/8”-18 and 9/16”-18.
• A blow molded plastic storage case keeps contents organized and protected from loss.
09-03-2010, 10:34 PM
#28
The wood dowel rods work perfectly. I took mine, cut them at 24" I believe (about an inch sticking out of the block), and I rounded off one end on the concrete so it was pointing like a screw. Then I covered the wood in motor oil to prevent any wood filings from getting into the motor.
So, the pointed end is toward the firewall, right? Why do u round off the 1 end?
Because aftermarket stalls are less efficient than the stock converters. All that extra heat people bitch about, thats engine power thats not getting to the ground. If you trust the converter, lock it on the dyno then make the pull to negate its losses.
Mine are the 3" 59959, I think. The part number is all 5's and 9s. About $90 each I think. I have my exhaust designed so that in case they do cause problems, they are right next to a flange so I can hollow them out without hacking up my exhaust (thanks CurtD).
Pulling the heads for a cam swap is ridiculous, and unless you plan to run 15+ lbs of boost or just feel like spending money, you dont need head studs. I only have them because they came with my shortblock for free.
Mine are the 3" 59959, I think. The part number is all 5's and 9s. About $90 each I think. I have my exhaust designed so that in case they do cause problems, they are right next to a flange so I can hollow them out without hacking up my exhaust (thanks CurtD).
Pulling the heads for a cam swap is ridiculous, and unless you plan to run 15+ lbs of boost or just feel like spending money, you dont need head studs. I only have them because they came with my shortblock for free.
No, only acceleration, not dyno #'s.
No, I don't wanna pull the heads for a cam swap. IMO, it's a waste of time & too much extra work. He says parts cant drop right past those dowels. That was a new one on me. But then, I've never done a in-vehicle cam swap. I'll take my luck on the dowel rods. Cause if heads are coming off, heads are goin on.
And new heads on on the menu. Not now. I just wanna do cam stuff, trrow on my 1.75 rockers, & Radix.
After I go to 1/4, & hopefully don't frag rear, at that time (depending on ET), I determine if I wanna go 3.73 or 4.10. I'm leaning to 3.73 if I do gears when I get Truetrac in.
skolman91, he does my tuning, & says he knows what works for these trucks. Yet, what little he has tuned for me, & did see some gains, but we never did a street tune. Honestly, I've thought of givin Wheatley a try since he works w/. HPT. I too thought my track times should be better.
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-03-2010 at 10:40 PM.
09-03-2010, 10:46 PM
#30
The puller like what was pictured earlier was most likely the OTC 6267 GM / Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Puller and typically goes for about $58.00 on the street. While of course they can be picked up at numerous locations (possibly even cheaper), one of the places with the best price is from ntxtools dot com.
Features:
• Applies to GM, 1999 Generation III 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L and 8,1L V-8’s.
Also works on Cadillac 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.9L V-8’s beginning in 1988.• Chrysler engines beginning in 1990 thru 2002 can be serviced including 2.0L, 2.4L L-4’s. Plus 2.5L, 2.7L, 3.3L, 3.5L and 3.8L V-6’s.
Kit Includes:
• 3-jaw puller
• Three lengths of forcing rods
• Forcing screw with 3/8” square drive for ratchet use.
For an installer I also use another OTC product, the OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller & Installer Set and you can normally pick one up for under $70.00.
Features:
• For easy removal of harmonic balancers and drive pulleys which are press-fitted onto the crank-shaft. A bearing-centered circular 2/3-way and an assortment of metric and fractional sized bolts and adapters provide wide coverage.
• A heavy-duty ¾” diameter forcing screw is internally threaded to fit the eight adapters to install harmonic balancers. Adapter sizes included: M16 x 2.0, M14 x 1.5, M12 x 1.5, ½”-20, 7/16”-20, ¾”-16, 5/8”-18 and 9/16”-18.
• A blow molded plastic storage case keeps contents organized and protected from loss.
Features:
• Applies to GM, 1999 Generation III 4.8L, 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L and 8,1L V-8’s.
Also works on Cadillac 4.5L, 4.6L and 4.9L V-8’s beginning in 1988.• Chrysler engines beginning in 1990 thru 2002 can be serviced including 2.0L, 2.4L L-4’s. Plus 2.5L, 2.7L, 3.3L, 3.5L and 3.8L V-6’s.
Kit Includes:
• 3-jaw puller
• Three lengths of forcing rods
• Forcing screw with 3/8” square drive for ratchet use.
For an installer I also use another OTC product, the OTC 4531 Harmonic Balancer Puller & Installer Set and you can normally pick one up for under $70.00.
Features:
• For easy removal of harmonic balancers and drive pulleys which are press-fitted onto the crank-shaft. A bearing-centered circular 2/3-way and an assortment of metric and fractional sized bolts and adapters provide wide coverage.
• A heavy-duty ¾” diameter forcing screw is internally threaded to fit the eight adapters to install harmonic balancers. Adapter sizes included: M16 x 2.0, M14 x 1.5, M12 x 1.5, ½”-20, 7/16”-20, ¾”-16, 5/8”-18 and 9/16”-18.
• A blow molded plastic storage case keeps contents organized and protected from loss.
Jarrod, any idea on what size adapter I need? I think I know what someone will reply: The 1 that fits.
Mike, I figured that was why. I'll go dig up my 1/4 slips too.
Last edited by fastnblu; 09-03-2010 at 11:06 PM. Reason: EDIT: My harmonic p/n added