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Any tips on cam, springs & other valvetrain, crank pin kit for Radix?

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Old 09-06-2010, 12:24 PM
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If I remember right you don' need to drop the oil pan, I'm sure I didn't drained the oil.
Also, rad removal wasn't needed on my truck, just removed the e-fans.

It's great you have the crane spring tool, I didn't and learned the hard way lol
Old 09-06-2010, 12:24 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Wait, why are you taking the oil pump off?
Old 09-06-2010, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Wait, why are you taking the oil pump off?
I guess I was right, you don't need to take that **** out
Old 09-06-2010, 12:38 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Yea, seriously, its just the bottom two bolts of the timing cover that need to come out, not the whole thing.
Old 09-06-2010, 12:38 PM
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not sure but i think he bought a new pump guys..
Old 09-06-2010, 12:52 PM
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Tom is replacing the timing chain due to the age and miles. Hence the reason for him pulling the pump.
Old 09-06-2010, 01:57 PM
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jiar577, u might not need to drop the oil pan, but it sure makes it alot easier to undo & hang onto that oil pickup tube. Still, I got it all the way out & it kinda hung on by a thread, literally. I needed both hands to tug apart, & of course, I dropped that lil bugger in pan. Had to fetch it out, but that wasn't too bad. I drained oil / removed filter so I could get pan down a bit, & not take a bath. My brother in his infinite wisdom tossed the shitload of cardboard he had, so I didn't need an oil mess, nor did I wanna lay in it. I made enuff mess from coolant.

I also couldn't find his oodles of paper towels he normally has on hand.
I had to go pilfer the only roll I could find - in the kitchen. Any other time, he has a bunch.

How did u get away w/o removing rad? Even w/. condenser in there, I had to "tweak" my dowel rods to the side to insert em. I cut em to 2' ea. & coated w/. oil, lightly flattened 1 side & tapered to allow to slide past lifters. You need 18" -18 1/2" just to go to the back of block. If there's a bit of resistance, that extra 6" gives user a nice hand hold. Worked like a charm. I would do the wood trimming before even starting job if pinched for time. The Crane valve spring tool was on sale for $99.

skolman91, I didn't spring for a new pump. We have the same pump as the LS6, so I couldn't see gettin a new 1, unless it was a Titan or some blueprinted deal, but even then, I elected to pass.

Atomic, I took oil pump off to put on new chain.

Originally Posted by 1Bear
Tom is replacing the timing chain due to the age and miles. Hence the reason for him pulling the pump.
As usual, my favorite Texan knows what he's talkin bout.
Actually, Ben is cool as all get out too!

My buddy, Joe, asked me why I was replacing only the chain & not the gears. He said u usually do both together w/. chain. I couldn't see spending the coin for that. And then I gotta find that special 2 jaw puller for that. Or hope I could rent a suitable 1.

The cam resisted coming out at all, so I told Joe there is a cam sensor & bolt. That lil o-ring was stubborn, but it did come out after some wigglin & a lil cursing. The cam was a bit tight at 1st, but after that 1st bit, came out smooth. They say the 1st 90% is easy, the last 10% takes a bit more uumph; so u reverse that logic on removal.

Got the new cam in. Dot-dot, new chain is on. Put my Vinci cam spring tool together & on cyl. 1 since it's @ TDC. Then I had to stop. And then had to leave for a family function. Only to find food wouldn't be ready for 2 hours later. RATS! I coulda got more done.

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-06-2010 at 02:29 PM. Reason: Finished by putting VHP cam spring tool together on #1
Old 09-06-2010, 02:27 PM
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I thought I had thought of everything, but I didn't know there was one of these on tube, then a person whom I owe a great deal to told me (as did my service manual), u should replace that O-ring on pickup tube. I have a red o-ring. There are 3 different colored ones, red, blue & blue green, he told me.

So, I'll get that from dealer on Tues. if it's in stock, or order it.

Also, what are u guys using to install your new valve seals? What tool?
I don't wanna damage, but don't wanna buy a J-tool if I can avoid it.

If I had to do again, I'd buy the Chrysler puller or a quality 3 jaw puller or both. I think I still will, just to have. The 3 jaw could be used on other pullin jobs. I hate borrowing tools, even if Autozone loans em & u get $ back. I like to have a tool so at any time, day or night, any day of the week, I can go to my box & grab it.

Once I figure out how to swap 1st pr. of springs out, the rest should go smooth. I figure a pen magnet & mallet will be my friends.

It's just the 1st pr. I'm worried bout. After that, I'll be more confident. And hopefully I won't drop any lil keepers nor send anything flyin across the garage.

Last edited by fastnblu; 09-06-2010 at 02:40 PM.
Old 09-06-2010, 02:56 PM
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just use a big socket and hammer for the valve seals.
Old 09-06-2010, 03:01 PM
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for some reason i thought that you said you bought a ls6 pump, how many miles on your truck? and i believe you can seat the valve seals on with a socket..

Last edited by skolman91; 09-06-2010 at 03:30 PM.


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