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Arps ???

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Old 02-27-2012 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
I can agree. I always see people changing rod bolts. I feel that if the engine has any amount of miles on it, that is is broke in. Removing the stock bolts, even if 1 at a time will more then likely take the current load off the bearings, you will not get that back after you add the new bolts. What cam are you running to turn 6700, still make power, also what intake set up? Stock truck intake starts to fall off around 62ish. I would not spin it as hard. If it was getting fresh bearings, then that would be nice to know you had the added insurance. I say this alot, because I have seen it. Alot of other things take a **** before the rod bolts let loose.
Would it make you feel better if the crank was getting fluxed and polished and new bearings were being installed with the new bolts?
Old 02-27-2012 | 09:10 PM
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Im running arp bolts. Had 93,000 miles on the clock when I put them in and not a single hiccup yet...knock on wood. I have roughtly 150 or so miles on it since then and Ihit the limiter several times at 6800 while tuning it and havent had a problem
Old 02-27-2012 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dmelvin
Would it make you feel better if the crank was getting fluxed and polished and new bearings were being installed with the new bolts?
Yes, like I said if it is coming apart, getting new bearings and all, it is some added safety . How many rod bolt failures have you actually heard of in LS engines? Maybe a few but, from guys really twisting power out for the majority. You almost always hear of a piston letting go, or something in the valve train. As for hitting the rev limiter, that puts more stress on the valve train and timing gear/chains then anything else.
Old 02-27-2012 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mangled03gmc
Yes, like I said if it is coming apart, getting new bearings and all, it is some added safety . How many rod bolt failures have you actually heard of in LS engines? Maybe a few but, from guys really twisting power out for the majority. You almost always hear of a piston letting go, or something in the valve train. As for hitting the rev limiter, that puts more stress on the valve train and timing gear/chains then anything else.
Reason I asked is because my LS1 was disassembled before I got it, so I was planning on new bearings and bolts. Dad recommended getting it fluxed and polished.

Sorry for the threadjack... please carry on.
Old 02-27-2012 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 02chevyls1
...just wanted to get everyones opinion.
There really isn't an opinion here. Among those who upgrade rod bolts without checking the rod bore and honing if necessary, some get lucky and some don't. You might randomly get away with it, but installing some ARP rod bolts on bone stock rods just to get some peace of mind may end up clamping the cap too hard and forcing the bearing out of round. That's gonna leave you with a bunch of spun bearings. Bring shift points down, since you won't need them that high anyway.
Old 02-27-2012 | 11:52 PM
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Guess I got lucky
Old 02-28-2012 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by o2camaross
Guess I got lucky
You've only put 150 miles on it. Talk about how reliable it is after you have 10,000 miles more.
Old 02-28-2012 | 02:21 AM
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^^^ I think he meant 150K now.
Old 02-28-2012 | 07:36 AM
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I don't see why changing rod bolts would cause a failure in less they were over torqued. Or wasn't installed/torqued correctly.
Old 02-28-2012 | 10:28 PM
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guess ill keep the stock one and if she blows she blow i can get motors for 400 all day so i guess its not that big of a deal just a headache



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