I knew you would chime in with your idea. I plan on making my own air to water with your idea incorporated into it. I want to use some type of switched solenoid valve to cut off engine coolant from the heater core and another solenoid to let the intercoolers fluid go through. Obviously using the same coolant as the engines since they will co mingle.
I know this is only to help get your fliud temp down temporaily but it would be great for racing to keep your temps down as you wait in line for your turn down the track.

 

That's where the reservoir comes in. You make the water cold while you drive it and then you have plenty to pump thru the system after waiting in the staging lanes.

 

I'll be there in the black regular cab.

 

Just to continue our eye scratching-out fight:Cfm is all that matters in this case. If your house was pressurized to 15psi, it would still take the same amount of BTUs to cool it. It's the same in your intercooler. The air entering is close to the same pressure as the air leaving. The difference in density is insignificant. Just because it makes a big difference in horsepower doesn't mean that there is all that much more air.
[/QUOTE]As far as your temp/press. numbers go: I don't know where you got 9psi? What kind of cycle are you talking about. I've never seen any refer system operate at that low of a pressure. And besides, R22 at 9psi and -22*F is at about 104Btu/lb, which is well outside of the vapor dome. What compressor and TXV are you using? Did you buy it from the same guy that sold Jack his beanstalk beans? [/QUOTE]
Have you ever heard of a freezer? It's what us Northerners use to keep snowballs frozen all year!
Anyway, I still want to find out how many BTUs it would take for a refrigerant/air intercooler to work. I have one of the salesmen at work looking it up in one of his engineering books, since I don't know how to read. Hope to know tomorrow.

 

Why yes I have heard of a freezer and I find it hillarious that you mention that when trying to argue 134a, because that's not even used in freezers. Try again.

But since you want to argue it: our 134a units operate on the low side at 150psi and the high is 235psi. They're frig's not freezers. We do have a -25 unit, but its a far cry from anything 134a could produce.

Our freezers operate at 174psi low and 500psi high. I'll let your salesman figure out what kind of refrigerant that is.

I'm done arguing this, but I will leave you to ponder this. Remember in your hs chemistry class when they taught you about the 3 diff phases of matter. Well air is a gas....duh? As with any gas it takes the shape of the container its put in to. Now say you have a given volume. The air will still take up the same amount of space if it were at 1 bar or 2 bar. But wait a minute, the air at 2 bar is compressed more. That means theres more of it in there. More air, more oxygen, more fuel, more power and.........more mass, due to the increased density. If something is more dense then its harder to cool it.

Since you're not good with gasses think about this with a solid, like metal. Try to cool off aluminum and steel, each with the same volume. The aluminum will take a lot less Btu's than the steel. More mass more btu's needed.

 

i sell 134a and 134a accessories.

 

Ok, you are done arguing, so now the whole internet knows that you are right.
The freezer in my basement uses 134a.
You definitely got me on what kind of refrigerant that is, sounds like some kind of cascade system.
You're right about denser air needing more BTUs for the same amount of cooling- if the air is so dense that it has been liquified!

 

TO THE TOP>>>>>>> lets here what has happned with this idea.
I have buddy whos turbo'in a VW Fox ( a 2 door jetta from 1989) We have already Megaquirted it, swapped intakes, put a 5 speed manual in place of the 4 and have all the parts from a junkyard car to put rear disk brakes on it.....next step is a turbo and both being mechanical engineers, we wana do something crazy for an intercooler.......I wana see someone that has done this and made it work for them.

 

Question, If you already have a air/water cooler, would it be more cost effective too set up a larger water tank, and radiator. We all have trucks and trucks can haul weight with out effecting the perf. much. So lets say you set up a 10gal. tank under the truck, and an effect size raditor in the front. Would you have a more consistant temperature maybe not as cold, but for the long haul? And if 10gallons is not enough make it bigger. It will take a long time to heat that amount water up, even without the raditor. So on a 100 degree day if your air temps would stay at 100 degrees I think that would be better.
Now I am not talking drag racing, more ever day usage.
As far as the tank holding cold water, the water in the core is going to keep getting hotter and hotter unless you are circulating the water, which means your cold water tank is having warm water applied.
Not saying it does not work just thinking now.
?when and where is truck week.?
Ricky

 

Why not put a 2000w inverter in your truck and plug a freezer into it (one that wont overload your inverter). Then build a 2 gallon reservoir tank in the freezer or possibly coils (or both) to keep the coolant cold, but not frozen as it flows in and out of the freezer and into the A2W intercooler. Hook up a toggle switch to the inverter so you can turn it on and off so it wont burden your alternator when your racing.

There you go, a hillbilly refrigerated intercooler....patent pending......

EDIT: Wait a minute, if we make all the body panels out of UV solar panels we wouldn't even need the inverter, just need some high capacity storage cells....yes....i can see the money rolling in now. Place your orders.