Wanting to run a catch can or maybe do 1 for each side... not tryin to be cheap just wanting to save a few bucks so heres my questions... ive heard the open/hollow cans are damn near pointless but was wondering if anyone has ever put a filter or screen or baffle or something in one to make it more effecient? Is this even worth it or should i just wait and get one with the filter or seperator in it already?

Thanks

 

Ive heard of guys putting steel wool in there to act as a filter, but I dont know if I would want to risk those particles getting sucked into the intake.

 

Didnt think bout something like that... maybe on of the green industial scotch brite pads instead of steel wool... some of the filtered cans ive seen the filter resembles those pads... ill see what other input i get but may try that... thanks Richard for gettin my brain workin...lol, oh and sorry to hear bout ur truck, ill be following the rebuild! GL!!

 

I just look at it as an opportunity to build it nastier than before. Let us know what you end up doing with the can.

 

No doubt.. hell it was nasty already! Lol!
Will do man!

 

http://www.mikenorrismotorsports.com...atch_Cans.html

 

Just bought one from catch cans dot com, I believe the can is made by Norris (has identical pictures to those on the Norris website and I know he makes cans for various retailers).

Also, posted this up a few minutes ago with a schematic borrowed from LS1tech: https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=470579

And since our blowers make boost in the lower intake manifold, I don't think the check valves are important because we wouldn't be boosting into the valve covers anyway.

 

I think the schematic you posted makes things quite a bit more complicated than they need to be. Also, wouldn't you want the dirty side (PCV) tied into the catch can? Why do you feel it's necessary to use vacuum to pull crankcase pressures? What about when your under boost, and their is no vacuum to allow crankcase pressures to release? Although you won't pressurize your crankcase due to the one-way valves, the addition of the one-way valve inline with the breather will prevent pressures from releasing when under boost with no vacuum. Also, most of the oil fumes come from the drivers side cover so it only makes sense to me to incorporate the catch can on that side.
Put a breather on for your oil fill cap, cap off the ports on the passenger valve cover and throttle body, and install the catch can between the PCV port and your intake manifold. I guess you don't really need it since you have a blower, but ford makes a one way PCV that fits right in the stock location. With this setup, you won't be boosting your crankcase, the filter will allow air to draw in/ pressures to release, and the catch can will prevent any oil from making it's way to your intake.

 

The schematic posted up is for turbo/centrifugal s/c's. Like I said above, check valves aren't important on roots/lysholm blowers since they won't be boosting the crank case. With the exception of the line running to the turbo, which isn't applicable for blowers, that is how you should hook up a catch can. And the addition of the check valve on the breather is to keep the oil smell out of the cabin. I don't want to smell oil all of the time when driving around, nor do I want oil spray in my engine compartment. While the check valve prevents pressure from being released through the breather, the crank case pressure is vented back into the intake, through the catch can.

 

So what is your logic behind completely reconfiguring the GM PCV system? Why is it necessary to move your PCV valve in-line with the passenger side valve cover, the clean side of the engine? The PCV system was designed to revolve around the driver's side valve cover; if you need an explanation as to why the system will work more efficiently when pulling from the stock location, just remove your valve covers and take a look. As for the smell of the crankcase gasses, with a vacuum source pulling the gasses from the dirty side, your not going to have a problem with a breather on the oil fill neck. If you did, it would be as simple as putting your oil cap back on and hooking up your check valve and filter up to the port on the passenger side valve cover.

Please elaborate on why venting the crankcase from the passenger's side will work more efficiently than GM's method.