Custom Radix Heat Exchanger How To
#21
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iTrader: (14)
Originally Posted by thunder550
I'm going in to XMS sometime soon to talk to them about buying a NW 90mm TB - I'll have to ask about this too. Do they need a truck to test fitment?
(edit)... and I just realized that Chad completed negotiations with PerformanceTrucks... and is now a Supporting Vendor. Congrats to Xtreme Motorsports
Last edited by billreid1@cox.net; 04-14-2006 at 01:11 PM.
#23
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Heh! Its only been 7 years!
Moving forward. Going to:
Use 1/2 NPT to 5/8 Barb brass 90°'s.
Relocate the pump out of the engine bay into the HE area.
Relocate the Reservoir out of the engine bay into the HE area.
Insulate the hoses going to and from the blower.
The Jeg's Jegster Scirocco radiator 51170 is now $129.99 shipped.
Moving forward. Going to:
Use 1/2 NPT to 5/8 Barb brass 90°'s.
Relocate the pump out of the engine bay into the HE area.
Relocate the Reservoir out of the engine bay into the HE area.
Insulate the hoses going to and from the blower.
The Jeg's Jegster Scirocco radiator 51170 is now $129.99 shipped.
#24
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
My Radix Heat Exchanger to Jegs Radiator Install Version
Star Date 8/31/2013.
I completed this mod today. No results as far as gains yet.
I ran it a little today and because it was 78°F when I last scanned it, and 95°F today, the difference was 115°F IAT @ 78°F, and 120°F IAT @ 95°F at cruising.
One thing I did was check the reservoir liquid temp and after sitting and idling with the fans running for 10 minutes @ 80°F daytime temp before it was 96°F, and 80°F night time today after 10 minutes was 90.
I still have to run it more. I have a feeling its not going to be earth shaking though. I think getting the reservoir and pump out of the engine bay will help with any improvements as well.
The density of the Radix OE seems like its a really good unit. The Jegs radiator is not as dense and almost the same weight. It has three, EDIT = "Two" rows of tubing in each layer.
Mine is a little different because I have an oil cooler and it required I use 1" standoffs at the mounting points. These were made from 1/4-20 all-thread rod connectors I had in my cache.
I also needed to flip mine so I could have the reservoir and hose routing the way I wanted it. So the oil cooler causing me to use standoffs came in handy getting the brackets over the temp switch.
I used 3/16 X 1.5" aluminum for the brackets.
I relocated the pump from the engine bay to behind the bumper @ center.
I relocated the reservoir out of the engine bay also. It gets a little air now.
I made sure the hoses did not touch and were routed off the engine and straight out to the fender as possible before turning towards the grill. I will be insulating the hoses engine bay portions in the future.
The reservoir fill level is very close to the level of the intercooler in the blower. I filled to just below the reservoir inlet and it does not rise above it. Even when shut down. Luck?
About the procedure:
I am a machinist and I tell you drilling this stuff at home on a drill press, fastened down and opened up in increments to the required 23/32" is scary. I could tell one misjudgment in speed and feed and it will get crazy.
The wall thickness amount for threading 1/2-14-NPT is frighteningly thin. I used Loctite pipe thread sealer. The red thick stuff. All is well. It tightened up nicely to the feel. No leaks. The way the tap cut had a feel I liked also.
Before:
The Comparison:
Standoff pics:
Reservoir & Pump Locations:
Mounting the Reservoir:
Done:
Flow Chart:
I completed this mod today. No results as far as gains yet.
I ran it a little today and because it was 78°F when I last scanned it, and 95°F today, the difference was 115°F IAT @ 78°F, and 120°F IAT @ 95°F at cruising.
One thing I did was check the reservoir liquid temp and after sitting and idling with the fans running for 10 minutes @ 80°F daytime temp before it was 96°F, and 80°F night time today after 10 minutes was 90.
I still have to run it more. I have a feeling its not going to be earth shaking though. I think getting the reservoir and pump out of the engine bay will help with any improvements as well.
The density of the Radix OE seems like its a really good unit. The Jegs radiator is not as dense and almost the same weight. It has three, EDIT = "Two" rows of tubing in each layer.
Mine is a little different because I have an oil cooler and it required I use 1" standoffs at the mounting points. These were made from 1/4-20 all-thread rod connectors I had in my cache.
I also needed to flip mine so I could have the reservoir and hose routing the way I wanted it. So the oil cooler causing me to use standoffs came in handy getting the brackets over the temp switch.
I used 3/16 X 1.5" aluminum for the brackets.
I relocated the pump from the engine bay to behind the bumper @ center.
I relocated the reservoir out of the engine bay also. It gets a little air now.
I made sure the hoses did not touch and were routed off the engine and straight out to the fender as possible before turning towards the grill. I will be insulating the hoses engine bay portions in the future.
The reservoir fill level is very close to the level of the intercooler in the blower. I filled to just below the reservoir inlet and it does not rise above it. Even when shut down. Luck?
About the procedure:
I am a machinist and I tell you drilling this stuff at home on a drill press, fastened down and opened up in increments to the required 23/32" is scary. I could tell one misjudgment in speed and feed and it will get crazy.
The wall thickness amount for threading 1/2-14-NPT is frighteningly thin. I used Loctite pipe thread sealer. The red thick stuff. All is well. It tightened up nicely to the feel. No leaks. The way the tap cut had a feel I liked also.
Before:
The Comparison:
Standoff pics:
Reservoir & Pump Locations:
Mounting the Reservoir:
Done:
Flow Chart:
Last edited by therock; 09-10-2013 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Radiator Has 2 Rows of tubing per layer, not three.
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