Dmax intercooler.....the jury is still out
08-14-2006, 12:18 AM
#21
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you stated that with out the intercooler set up you see a steady 8 psi and it feels strong.
after the intercooler install you see 6 psi and it feels weak.
have you seen the gauge go past 6 psi after you installed the intercooler.
even on a wot run has the gauge gone past 6 psi?
after the intercooler install you see 6 psi and it feels weak.
have you seen the gauge go past 6 psi after you installed the intercooler.
even on a wot run has the gauge gone past 6 psi?
08-14-2006, 05:22 AM
#22
Originally Posted by PappyDan
you stated that with out the intercooler set up you see a steady 8 psi and it feels strong.
after the intercooler install you see 6 psi and it feels weak.
have you seen the gauge go past 6 psi after you installed the intercooler.
even on a wot run has the gauge gone past 6 psi?
after the intercooler install you see 6 psi and it feels weak.
have you seen the gauge go past 6 psi after you installed the intercooler.
even on a wot run has the gauge gone past 6 psi?
Okay, i am following you now. I had 8psi (or a hair more) with my smallest pulley before adding the intercooler. Then i added the intercooler, and with that same pulley I am only seeing about 6psi. So you're saying maybe that 2psi drop is not caused because of the additional tubing and intercooler, but instead, maybe its caused because I have some small leaks someplace. I guess that is worth checking out. I just assumed it was due to your standard loss through the I/C, but maybe not. One thing though........before i installed the intercooler, the only pulley i had ever went to the track with was my 3" pulley, which made about 6psi before the intercooler was installed. So my question would be.......would the truck perform worse if it was putting out 6psi and had a leak compared to if it was putting out 6psi with no leaks? I mean the truck would see 6psi either way right?
08-14-2006, 05:43 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by Whippled 496
My only question is why would i not see a pressure drop on my boost gauge in the cabin of the truck if i actually did have a leak?
That is all beside the point if you ran faster with a larger pully making the same psi of boost (6) after the smaller pully and I/C.
The I/C is not the cause of the engine overheating issue IMO,
I'd pull the I/C and see if the engine still overheats.....
08-14-2006, 06:51 AM
#24
Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
That is all beside the point if you ran faster with a larger pully making the same psi of boost (6) after the smaller pully and I/C.
The I/C is not the cause of the engine overheating issue IMO,
I'd pull the I/C and see if the engine still overheats.....
The I/C is not the cause of the engine overheating issue IMO,
I'd pull the I/C and see if the engine still overheats.....
Right, thats what i mean. I ran faster before the I/C than i did after the I/C with the same amount of boost.
I also am leaning towards this radiator as being the culprit, i cant see this I/C being that much of a restriction. It would be a pretty big job to just remove the I/C and leave the radiator though. They kinda bolt together to mount into the core support. I could make some temporary brackets to hold it there for testing purposes i suppose.
I would much rather have just one problem than two...LOL.
08-14-2006, 07:12 AM
#25
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Linda, here's an old post that will provide you some answers you've been asking about.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19261
Vernon
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19261
Vernon
08-14-2006, 08:14 AM
#26
Good read Vernon, thanks. So what can i ascertain from this considering when i went back to the tuner for an update after the I/C went on, that there was almost no adjusment needed for the A/F....same as it was before the I/C. Would that indicate anything? I definately am not getting any soot around the pipe outlet and i would imagine that if i was running to rich it would have showed up in the A/F readings right? It was almost spot on. Matter of fact, all he did was mess with the timing a little and record the IAT's.
Your saying to pressurize the entire engine, not just the charged air pipe?
Your saying to pressurize the entire engine, not just the charged air pipe?
08-14-2006, 08:20 AM
#27
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Originally Posted by Whippled 496
Your saying to pressurize the entire engine, not just the charged air pipe?
It would be best IMO to plug it right at the throtttle body and right after the Whipple...
08-14-2006, 08:25 AM
#28
okay, i think i will start by getting a couple 3" or 2-1/2" PVC caps (whichever fits my couplings the best) from home depot and tap one end for my pressure gauge and tap the other end for an air fitting and see what i got. Then go from there.
Last edited by Whippled 496; 08-14-2006 at 08:38 AM.
08-14-2006, 09:16 PM
#29
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You can pressurize the entire intake, I always do as have many others. There may be a slight leakage past rings, guides, etc. but nothing the regulator can't easily overcome assuming you have an adequate compressor. In fact I don't cap anything even the throttle body is hissing when I check. It doesn't matter as your only looking for leaks where there shouldn't be one therefore seepage through normal places is irrellivent.
As far if that's what you're seeing I'm not sure as I haven't read that post in years but I remembered about what I said. If anything it should help you decide if that is what's going on or not and at least an easy way to check.
Vernon
As far if that's what you're seeing I'm not sure as I haven't read that post in years but I remembered about what I said. If anything it should help you decide if that is what's going on or not and at least an easy way to check.
Vernon
08-16-2006, 03:42 PM
#30
Well with all the talk of leaks and such I decided to test mine, I tested everything between the intake manifold and the blower. Took it up to 20psi and let it sit for about 5-10 min... Nothing. Pressure didnt drop at all. I really didnt have any perticular reason to check just did it to be sure.