Dmax intercooler.....the jury is still out
08-17-2006, 03:17 AM
#41
Tribe Shaman
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before you go spend a few hundred bucks back with the tuner, lets eliminate any thing that is cheap to do, test the system, check out the seals, lets make sure everything it is right and the way it should be, I don't think your whipple is running so hot that your losing 2 psi when that very hot air gets cooled down in the intercooler with this summer air passing through it.
08-17-2006, 05:35 AM
#42
Thats the plan Pappy, i dont want to throw money at my tuner either. i will give it the leak test and see whats what. I guess it could be those t-bolts are cranked a little to much in some places causing some oblonging of the pipe....i hope so anyway.
03sierra, did you use a valve stem with a grommet on it, or one what threads in?
03sierra, did you use a valve stem with a grommet on it, or one what threads in?
08-17-2006, 06:06 AM
#45
Originally Posted by 03sierraslt
IMO that is a big enough temperature change to see a pressure drop.
Remember, i only had the smaller pulley on for a few weeks (making 8psi) before installing the I/C. The I/C brought the boost levels back down to where i was originally at 6psi. So the comparisons im making are of the truck with 6psi and no I/C vs. the truck with 6psi with I/C. There is no conceivable reason performance would drop by doing this MOD. ****, i might stop on the way home tonight and get the stuff so i can do my test tomorrow, im getting anxious now.
08-17-2006, 07:06 AM
#46
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Guys I'm only going to say it one more time because it's not worth an argument.
You don't need anything but a source of compressed air, a regulator with a necked down outlet you can match to a vacuum port on your intake and a spray bottle of soapy water. It works perfectly fine. Capping off anything is a waste of time.
Vernon
You don't need anything but a source of compressed air, a regulator with a necked down outlet you can match to a vacuum port on your intake and a spray bottle of soapy water. It works perfectly fine. Capping off anything is a waste of time.
Vernon
08-17-2006, 06:52 PM
#47
I believe ya Vernon..
. I just want to isolate my tubing and check that first with a gauge because it will hold better than the engine will, and be easier to see if there is a leak. If i get nothing there, i am going to go for the full engine pressure test. Your a smart dude, i'm not second guessing you. Plus i have a feeling that if there is a leak, its going to be in my charged air pipe and not someplace else. I have not messed with anything else to cause a leak other than at the intake inlet, and im sure that i sealed that up real well.
. I just want to isolate my tubing and check that first with a gauge because it will hold better than the engine will, and be easier to see if there is a leak. If i get nothing there, i am going to go for the full engine pressure test. Your a smart dude, i'm not second guessing you. Plus i have a feeling that if there is a leak, its going to be in my charged air pipe and not someplace else. I have not messed with anything else to cause a leak other than at the intake inlet, and im sure that i sealed that up real well.
08-18-2006, 08:01 PM
#48
I will be testing the system tomorrow. In the meantime i was thinking.......what is the possability that my 8.1L water pump is not moving the coolant at the same rate the Dmax waterpump would? Would that have anything to do with the heating up issue? Maybe its moving the fluid to fast through the Dmax radiator?
08-19-2006, 09:34 AM
#49
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First thanks for the vote of confidence, I don't want to seem like a hole, rather I was just trying to help a brother out.
On the radiator difference I don't know for sure but I have seen evidence that would support the theory. Several years ago we had a customer with a 454 dually with an overheating problem. The guy had tried many things including installing a radiator for a similar year diesel engine truck. We eventually decided the radiator wasn't able to do the job even though it was relatively new. He had bought a new one and it had been less than 6 months ago. When it still over-heated he kept replacing parts involved to no success. So we installed a new 454 radiator and that did the trick. I can't say what was the original cause of his overheating because he must have taken care of that sometime after the diesel radiator was tried. But I do know that for some reason the diesel radiator couldn't keep the gas engine from overheating. The diesel radiator was larger but with fewer cores than the gas one. I imagine that there may be an obvious reason for it in thermodynamic theory but I didn't have time to think much about it at the time and it's been to long now for me to try. Possibly a fellow member is more knowledgeable and could shed some light on this. Or you could consult a radiator company or an old school radiator shop local to see if there's anything to this. As you know I'm just as interested in you getting this to work as you are so I know what to do on my junk.
Vernon
On the radiator difference I don't know for sure but I have seen evidence that would support the theory. Several years ago we had a customer with a 454 dually with an overheating problem. The guy had tried many things including installing a radiator for a similar year diesel engine truck. We eventually decided the radiator wasn't able to do the job even though it was relatively new. He had bought a new one and it had been less than 6 months ago. When it still over-heated he kept replacing parts involved to no success. So we installed a new 454 radiator and that did the trick. I can't say what was the original cause of his overheating because he must have taken care of that sometime after the diesel radiator was tried. But I do know that for some reason the diesel radiator couldn't keep the gas engine from overheating. The diesel radiator was larger but with fewer cores than the gas one. I imagine that there may be an obvious reason for it in thermodynamic theory but I didn't have time to think much about it at the time and it's been to long now for me to try. Possibly a fellow member is more knowledgeable and could shed some light on this. Or you could consult a radiator company or an old school radiator shop local to see if there's anything to this. As you know I'm just as interested in you getting this to work as you are so I know what to do on my junk.
Vernon
08-20-2006, 09:31 AM
#50
No leaks.
With that, i believe the tear down will commence this week....LOL. I want to drive my truck and not worry about anything like ECT's and performance, so i will most likely start removing parts this week and ordering the couple of items i need to get it back to where i was. Perhaps Whipple had the right idea with the A2W intercooler after all. It was a good test and hopefully i saved some people some time and trouble by doing this. Now if someone could just get me a smokin deal on the whipple intercooler i would be set... I will be throwing up this Dmax radiator, intercooler, shroud, and misc parts on Ebay soon. Hopefully i can get enough money for the parts to get me on my way to the Whipple I/C.
With that, i believe the tear down will commence this week....LOL. I want to drive my truck and not worry about anything like ECT's and performance, so i will most likely start removing parts this week and ordering the couple of items i need to get it back to where i was. Perhaps Whipple had the right idea with the A2W intercooler after all. It was a good test and hopefully i saved some people some time and trouble by doing this. Now if someone could just get me a smokin deal on the whipple intercooler i would be set..
. I will be throwing up this Dmax radiator, intercooler, shroud, and misc parts on Ebay soon. Hopefully i can get enough money for the parts to get me on my way to the Whipple I/C.