black00chev

iTrader: (2)

So while I've been waiting for the chance to get some trans upgrades done, I've been contemplating some ideas. Thanks to my buddy for letting me drive his '70 Nova with cam/stall/406 sbc a few times, I'm starting to ponder the idea of a cam and maybe stall either before or after I install my turbo kit. Im just not so sure how deep I wanna dig into my ecsb silverado when I have a rcsb s10 that I want to do a 6.0/cam/maybe FI build in.

I need your opinions on whether or not I should even bother with a cam/stall if Im not going to push more then 10psi. Turbo is a run of the mill MPT70/.96ar. I also have 172k on the 5.3/4l60e. Im looking for mostly low-mid range power and don't want to rev past 6k. Would it be worth it to get something like the "tripple 12" cam and/or a 2600ish stall converter? Would it be a good idea to install the cam/converter before or after I do the turbo kit?

Reason I don't do everything at once and get it all over with is I just like to run the truck as test and tune after everything I do to see how much it helps out.

Richardman1992

iTrader: (5)

I don't particarly like my stall (2800 circle d) in a street truck. Works amazing when flooring it or over probally 1/3 pedal but for mundane driving I'm not too excited. I haven't had my truck tuned yet so I don't know if it will remain the way it is now. Just make sure you get a cam spec'd for forced induction
On a side note, does the lower valence on your truck have the spoiler as one piece with the valence or are they separate? I know they were on Tahoes and suburbans but I dunno if it is one piece of do i need to drop the stock valence?

ZO6Ted

I remember someone on this site getting 50 hp post turbo on his Trick setup with a ZO6 cam and 5.3. I did mine at the same time so I can't say. A stall will def help get you better times and ~ 2500 is so streetable on a DD. I liked it way better that my 3k as a DD.

chevrolet all the way

iTrader: (24)

If you are going fi i highly recomend a converter! With a stock converter the truck will be a turd off the line. I daily drive a circle d 3c which ive footbraked to 4200 and can go more. its not at all terrible to drive and made the truck a totally different animal. dont be afraid to.drive around in a higher stall converter. its not at all like some make it out to be.

example. i towed mitchs 4800lb truck down a return road with an uphill and never saw over 1500rpm...

black00chev

iTrader: (2)

The lower spoiler is separate of the valance. Fits like a glove. Only thing is you have to is use like 5 bolts to hold it in place. The tahoe/burban valances have tabs it clips onto.

Damn 50hp just from the Z06 cam. I bet the 212/212/112 would do just as good. I was thinking about the 2600-2800 CircleD HP Series Stage II 278mm. Don't see spending around $1k for a converter when this trans might not even stay in this truck.

black00chev

iTrader: (2)

Yea my main idea was to skip the cam until further on down the road. Think I might start seriously looking into converters in the 2500-2800rpm range. Something like thats to flash. Id rather flash it at the track than stall it up. This is what I'm all ready used to doing. Truck seems to launch better in 4WD doing so.


Anyone else want to share their opinions/experiences???

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

I have a 3200 yank. But it's built for FI so It doesn't stall very high unless I'm more than 1/3 throttle. If you get one make sure it's made for FI. My old truck thruster 3000 would blow through to redline after I started making good power. I would recommend a good purpose cam. My ls6 cam was ok but I drop a LOT of time going to my LSG lobed cam. Best part was my bottom end felt better over both the ls6 and stock cams.

Johnmaster

iTrader: (3)

I bought another brand converter new in the swap meet section because I was in a time crunch but if I had to do it again I would call chris at circle D and do whatever he suggests. I ended up with a "3400 stall" and although it sounds like a lot for daily driving it isn't. Expect to pay about 1000 for the one that is recommended for what you are going to be doing with it. The difference for me is night and day and was probably the best $815 I spent on the truck.

black00chev

iTrader: (2)

I think what I might end up doing is just going with the GOOD converter and skip the cam for quite some time. Part of me is just ready to get this thing together and running perfect on 8-10psi. And if Im going to spend money anywhere, might as well be the converter since without it a cam alone isnt gonna help very much getting me out the hole. Last time I talked to Chris he suggested the pro tripple disk 258mm. The 1B has a nice 2500-2700 stall. I figure the turbo should be full boost right around 3000 so that should be perfect.

Im REALLY starting to want to build up my little S10, especially after this morning...
I had an evo go ahead of me at a stop sign this morning on the way to work. And the part of road right after the intersection has a really nice tight s-curve and damn if the little S10 of mine hang right with it through the curves. I think the suggested speed through them is 30mph and we were going over 50mph.

Alpinestar

iTrader: (7)

You are going to be running pretty much the same setup as me: MPT70/.96ar, isky triple 12, and PI 2600 stall (more like a 2800 though). I would just go ahead and slide in the new isky cam and 60# injectors if it is going to be awhile before you install the turbo kit or if you own EFI Live. I would definitely recommend getting a converter but I wouldn't put one in a 170K transmission. My 4l60e with 80k on it started slipping with just a tsp220 cam, headers and CAI.