I have started other threads pertaining to this but deleted them to put it all here in the FI section because it has to do with a Radix Dyno Tune.

1. Blow 1st gear in OE tranny and get a kit build.
2. Take to Dyno for a one size pulley size drop.
3. Leave Dyno and have detonation when gently accelerating @ 70mph or so.
4. Go back and he corrects for it off the Dyno.
5. Tranny shifting way too hard in 1-2 and too soft @ 2-3.

• Builder looks into it but is baffled. Says ask Tuner to put pressures to stock and come back. And I do but its unchanged.
• Builder asks me to check for dirty MAF before coming back in.
• I do and behold its super dirty. I clean and during the process I find an intake tube downstream of the MAF with a clamp dangling loose! Don't ask how or why, just know it can only be me.

6. I clean, tighten and the detonation reappears and she runs like a sick DOG.
7. I call the tuner and confess and he says get it back down here on the Dyno.

He found it to now be pig rich and did another tune from scratch.
This got by them because they normally want the vehicle dropped off and picked up driving it to the Dyno them selves. Before the trek they go over and evaluate things but I insisted being present and meeting them at the Dyno so I took them out of their rhythm I guess. And really - one should have his S**t together when submitting for a tune. I expressed my embarrassment and apologies and they responded saying I am nothing in comparison to what they have seen in the past.

I have an AIRAID CAI. They leave off some rubber box-to-hood stripping at the front of the box allowing air to enter from over the headlight. This also allows water to hit the element when it is raining. I noted this by the darker area at the top of the element with more grime than the rest of the element. Allowing water to go through the element picking up some oil and color then landing on the sensor probes. When I inspected the MAF it was more than just dark powder colored material on the probes but more like accumulation of debris. In other words kinda lumpy looking on a very small scale.
I have since got some adhesive backed weather stripping and stuck it to the underside of my hood over the headlight. It fits and looks like it was made for the application. After the next rain I will have a look when it's still wet. Forensics?
There are still plenty of places to get air as I can see the road looking down into the box and there are the OE fender holes. The other places around the bottom of the headlight and the lower set of lights have a backing. In 2005 GM took measures to avoid air in the engine compartment. The covering behind the lights and around the radiator were one. The cups behind the tow hooks and added air damn are others. See pics below.
All is well. Shifting is great and she runs great.

The first pic shows the path over the light. The rubber appears to look as if it protrudes but it does not. You have to bend over to see it or feel for it.

 

Glad its working well for you now. Believe me, many of us have had moments of stupidity dealing with these trucks. Don't worry about it.

 

I have the same intake, and mine does the same, are you sure water makes it in? I always assumed it was dirtier due to more airflow in that area, from over the headlight.

 

Is goin SD a option for you or not interested?

 

Quite sure. The available path is pretty plain to see. I have cleaned several MAF sensors on other vehicles and some with tons of miles on them and they had a black coating but mine had a thicker buildup that I'm not used to seeing.

Open your hood and look at the underside of it near where the rubber stop seats. If you have any dust you should see water trails in it. Mine did.

I also have Rain-X on my windows and new Michelin's and don't let a little rain slow me on well drained roads. If you crawl in the rain maybe not...heh!

The rubber is left over from a tailgate seal kit.

@1BADAZZSS What's SD?

 

ill check it out.

SD is a Speed Density Tune(No MAF)

 

I still want to prevent water from going through my element. MAF or not.

 

Lol he was recommending SD for tuning reasons, not the water issue.

 

if a tune was the only thing ive screwed up I would be doing GREAT lol. Ive had more transmissions than you have had tunes.

 

A couple things that would make me (or you) feel comfortable going back to that place for any tunes again; 1: they want to do a street driveability check in addition to the dyno time, 2: the trans place suggested to look at the MAF as the cause of the trans problems. Unfortunately, a lot of the time the shop will just throw up their hands in defeat. I think you've found 2 good places to do business with.