Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Well you were right, it took about 30 minutes and that sucker went bye bye. Lucky for me it went in the driveway. Not sure what im going to do now. That is tough to get to, and very limited space. All i know to do is go to the auto parts place and try and match a hose up to the size and shape i need....then cut a section out of it and install a custom "double tee" in the middle of it to hook my overflow and heater hose to. My other option is to rip all this **** back out and put the truck the way it used to be with just the blower on it, and **** the cooler temps.... Truck has been down for close to a month now ...

EDITED for sounding like a cry baby.

amazing what a day of rest can do to change your frame of mind.

Jamesbond2509

iTrader: (1)

Dont give up buddy. Mine was a royal pain in the @#$$%^$. When I dropped 80F it was well worth the pain. She runs like a raped ape. The mandrell bent elbows and straight joiners seem to be the best combo. You will be happy with the result. Every 10 degree IAT translates to 1% power.

Good Luck

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

I take this as an insult, unless you weren't following my install from the beginning. Disregarding the 5 months I didn't work on it because of weather and laziness, mine took about three months at a casual schedule, with a lot of thinking out problems in between actually touching parts. Unless, of course, you thought you would take a lot less time thanks to my excellent example.
Anyway, stick with it, mine runs so much better it was worth it all. And I still don't believe that Whipple's water to air heat exchanger can remove much heat in the time it takes the hot, compressed air to pass through its 3/4" or whatever thickness. Stick with air to air.

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Okay, you guys are right. Sorry to sound like an F'in baby, its been a tough week. 70hrs, no sleep, blah, blah, blah. Here is what am am thinking now. Ditch the entire lower hose, wade through the auto zone hoses and find one thats close to the size and shape i need(thats what i did for the upper hose). Then "tee" into it with my heater core hose. Further up the heater hose i can "tee" into that and run to my fill tank. Basically its the same as the stock way, just instead of a double "tee" in the radiator hose, i will use a single "tee". Here is a pic of how it is stock......



See the elbow with the two tee's? Is this how the half tons are also? This is how it is now, dont mind that ugly red elbow, its been replaced with an aluminum one now.......



This is how i plan on doing it next, with a brand new hose and a single tee spliced to try and keep it as simple as possible.....



Is there any reason that should not work? Does it matter that they wouldnt be both going into the lower hose at the same point? If anyone knows where i could get a plastic or brass tube with two tee's coming out of it, let me know. Otherwise im going to give this a try. Im just trying to keep it as simple as i can.

On a side note, i did get to run my truck for about 30 minutes before the hose popped. I did a coolant test first. I let it idle with the A/C on for about 20 minutes to make sure there were no radiator issues. I have a 160* stat in there and it got up to about 195* and sat there. Thats with the truck idling and the A/C on, the A/C stayed cold too. I am sure if i can get a hold of a Dmax clutch for the 9 blade Dmax fan i have, it will really do a better job than the 5 blade 8.1L fan thats on there now. Of course its pulling air through the I/C now too, so that makes it a little tougher to cool. Next i ran it around a little, as soon as i got it on the road the coolant temps backed off to about 180*, so that was fine. I did some 80% throttle runs and the truck felt VERY good. I noticed i was hitting about 6.5psi, so if there is any boost drop through the I/C its minimal. Did not detect any noticable lag either. So aside from the hose issue, the truck is running very well, no vacuum leaks for sure as i am seeing 23" of vacuum at idle and as much as 28" after letting off of the throttle.....seems like a lot of vacuum but i guess thats normal for the 8.1L. Oh, and it didnt pull my cast 90's shut either... . Very happy with the performace from what i can tell so far....really want to get it out for some more extensive tests. I wont be able to get ant IAT measurements till i get it to the dyno. Here are a few pics i took off the intake piping, lighting is not great, but you get the idea....

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Well if it helps you out any, under hood looks very sharp IMO. Sexxxxy

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Just dont forget to hook up that IAT sensor..... J/K

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Thanks!

Im suprised you could even see that thing in that picture. I am going to hook it up before i go to the tuner. I will get some better pics soon. Any ideas for the plumbing?

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

That reducer coupler I posted up wouldn't work?

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

yes it would probably work, but i would still have, "starting at the water pump"...

1. original section of hose
2. plastic elbow with tees
3. silicone reducer
4. 1.5" copper 45* fitting
5. straight silicone connector
-plus a total of 6 hose connectors in the whole setup.

Way to much crap for one hose. I am going to auto zone today and look through their hose selections and find one that will fit from the pump to the radiator, then splice in 1 tee, and thats it. I want to keep it very simple under there. The less crap in the hose, the less that can fail on me. This way i can put 1 barbed tee in and shouldnt have to worry about it. Then up higher in the heater hose, i can put in 1 barbed tee for the fill tank. Dont know why GM had to get all fancy with that lower hose, do the half tons look like that too?

Jamesbond2509

iTrader: (1)

Looks Great! What size piping are you using?