Duramax intercooler install has begun
06-04-2006, 05:27 PM
#13
Thanks Vernon, That will be my next step after getting the oil cooler installed. Good description, should be pretty easy to follow. Yes 4.8, my radiator has a 37.5" core (44" end to end). Today was spent getting that god awful contraption that GM calls a "lower radiator hose" to fit. I got that finished up and got the upper radiator hose finished up. I also got the trany lines installed. I layed out a few ideas for the 3" charged air pipe and that was about all the time i had today. I will throw up some pics of todays progress later this evening. One thing i noticed while trying some things out is there is no possible way the lower fan shroud is going to work. It hits the crank pulley and it doesnt have enough room to clear the trany cooler lines. I could notch it out in all those places, but then it would just be to flimsy to even stay in place. Do you think I ill have an issue with just running the upper fan shroud? Ihope it wont be a big deal, cause i have no other option.... 
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06-04-2006, 06:42 PM
#14
Originally Posted by Linda
cause i have no other option.... .
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06-04-2006, 07:41 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Mikegyver
Make one out of aluminum sheet. The only good an upper shroud will do is keep your fingers out of the fan. If you don't make one, switch to electric fans. The amount of airflow loss that not having a shroud will cause will most likely make electric fans pull more air. Propeller fans lose all kinds of efficiency without a shroud. Remember turboprops, jet engined planes with propellers on the front? They didn't quit making them, 90% of all jet airplanes are now turbo fans. The propeller is still in the front of the jet, it is just inside a shroud. I know from personal experience as a HVAC mechanic how airflow drops off without a shroud, or when the fan blade slides down the shaft out of the shroud. And the belt-driven will still use as much horsepower with no shroud.
. I guess i could switch to Efans, would that privide me with better air flow than if i had both top and bottom shroud? How involved would it be to switch?
06-04-2006, 07:59 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Linda
I guess i could switch to Efans, would that privide me with better air flow than if i had both top and bottom shroud?
Originally Posted by Linda
How involved would it be to switch?
06-04-2006, 10:52 PM
#18
Thats what im talking about. The fan fits fine, its the lower Dmax shroud that wont cut it. The 8.1L shroud is to long and is a different shape. The trany lines are in the way (thats way to much to try and move) and by the time i trim around the trany lines, there would not be enough structural material left in the shroud to even install. I may just try to run it without a bottom shroud for a little while and see how it does. Sorry i didnt get to post any pics tonight, I left the camera out in the garage and well, i am just to lazy to run out there an get it. I will post some tomorrow.
06-05-2006, 10:23 AM
#19
okay, i got my parts on order for the battery reposition. And im going to try and cut this shroud up so it fits in there. Its going to take a bunch of notching around the trany lines but i guess it will be better than no shroud at all. Do you think i would get better air flow with a DMax fan blade opposed to my current fan blade, and are the clutches interchangable? Can i just take my clutch off of my current fan and bolt it to the Dmax fan?
06-05-2006, 11:05 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
Linda, I've just spent 20 minutes digging through my kids junk looking for MY camera patch cable. Three teen-agers, nuff said. I'll be glad to explain as much as possible and post pics soon as my kids are not home today.
I don't have the part# here it seems, probably at work. But any counterman should have little trouble finding it as all HD's with dual batterys have it. Mine came with it also but the Delco batterys failed as usual so mine was rusted out. I replaced it with a fresh one and only run one battery now. The factory AUX battery cables are just for supplying extra current under high demand and not big enough for the starter so I pitched them during the swap.
The big fuse box just behind the battery is also the point of voltage supply for the electrical system. Remove the lid and then remove the outer "box" or cover, it slides up and off the fuse panel.
Notice how the factory battery cable ties into the junction block now with a dual cable set-up. What I did is use the factory cable that comes from the BAT+ junction box (under your Whipple now) to the old battery + to connect onto the junction block of the fuse block only. Since there's no battery over there I just simpyfied the wiring.
Before you had a pos cable from the battery to the fuse box, and from the battery to the starter. Now I have a cable from the battery to the starter. And the old existing cable going from the starter to the fuse box to supply it with battery voltage.
Does this help?
I don't have the part# here it seems, probably at work. But any counterman should have little trouble finding it as all HD's with dual batterys have it. Mine came with it also but the Delco batterys failed as usual so mine was rusted out. I replaced it with a fresh one and only run one battery now. The factory AUX battery cables are just for supplying extra current under high demand and not big enough for the starter so I pitched them during the swap.
The big fuse box just behind the battery is also the point of voltage supply for the electrical system. Remove the lid and then remove the outer "box" or cover, it slides up and off the fuse panel.
Notice how the factory battery cable ties into the junction block now with a dual cable set-up. What I did is use the factory cable that comes from the BAT+ junction box (under your Whipple now) to the old battery + to connect onto the junction block of the fuse block only. Since there's no battery over there I just simpyfied the wiring.
Before you had a pos cable from the battery to the fuse box, and from the battery to the starter. Now I have a cable from the battery to the starter. And the old existing cable going from the starter to the fuse box to supply it with battery voltage.
Does this help?
Originally Posted by Manic Mechanic
I borrowed one of 4.8T's pics. Hopefully he doesn't mind.
Note the silver eyelet on the front side of the box. This cable piggybacks onto the battery cable at the battery POS terminal (note it's double thick). I took that off and cut the battery cable right about where that white tape is in the pic about 2 inches from the + termials. Then I installed another eyelet from NAPA onto the cut cable and attached it to the box where the old piggyback terminal was. The same cable is coming from the starter through the junction box behind the alternator but now goes directly into the fuse box on the fenderwell without any battery ends. When I say junction box behind the alternator or under your Whipple I mean that little red plastic junction box you can open by hand where the cable is spliced to the alternator.
Note the silver eyelet on the front side of the box. This cable piggybacks onto the battery cable at the battery POS terminal (note it's double thick). I took that off and cut the battery cable right about where that white tape is in the pic about 2 inches from the + termials. Then I installed another eyelet from NAPA onto the cut cable and attached it to the box where the old piggyback terminal was. The same cable is coming from the starter through the junction box behind the alternator but now goes directly into the fuse box on the fenderwell without any battery ends. When I say junction box behind the alternator or under your Whipple I mean that little red plastic junction box you can open by hand where the cable is spliced to the alternator.
.If i understand this correctly the starter will actually be a junction point now right? Tell me if this is right.....
I take the small wire that runs between the (+) battery terminal connector to the fuse block (silver metal eylet) and remove it. I then cut the main (+) cable a few inches before the connector. I attach an eylet to that and connect it to where the small silver eyelet used to be on the fuse block. Now that side is done. I take my new (+) cable and run it down from the auxillary battery location to the starter and bolt it up to where the existing cable is (the one that currently runs up to the small red junction below my whipple). Then I take my (-) battery cable that i removed from the drivers side and install it on the passenger side.
Is that about right?