Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

While im waiting on Vernon, here is my new approach on the fan shroud situation. I can see that the line thats giving me problems is the auxillary trany cooler "outlet line". Well this line is a little tight due to it having to reach a few more inches out to clear the new Dmax radiator. This puts it pretty tight to the radiator. The site I have been ordering all my componants from sells this line for the Dmax equipped trucks, so im assuming it must be a little longer. Im going to pick that up as well as the Dmax fan (minus the clutch, im going to use the clutch off of my fan). Hopefully this will allow me to install the lower fan shroud without any issues. We will see. I have to give a plug to the site i have been getting my parts from, they have everything in stock, shipping is fast and cheap. The site is a little tough to navigate till you understand the layout, but you cant beat it. If this is against forum policy, i appoligize....their site is newgmparts.com.

Leroy_454

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/chevy-diesel.html

Not sure if these electric fans would help... Dmax E-fans

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

Linda, that's it exactly. I thought of a few things I experienced that need mention to you and anyone else contemplating this battery relocation mod on an 8.1 truck.

There is a small ground pigtail on the main ground cable that attached to the frame up near the core support below the battery. I reattached it to the frame on the pass side below the current battery position using an existing hole and a self threading bolt found in one of my tool boxes. I may have drilled the eyelet on it a size larger to fit the bolt that fits the hole.

The starter lug that now is a junction for the positive cables broke off of my factory starter like it was peanut brittle. Examination revealved a small one time use tack weld was holding it to the starter solenoid. This required a trip into town to buy a new starter for $125, on my wholesale account retail may be higher. I asked the them how many they sold in a month and it was shocking, must be a common theme. Be warned and ready should yours break applying normal tightning torque. The new one held fine.

I still had the bolts that attached my old AUX battery tray, you may need a few metric bolts to attach it.

The current fender brace on the pass side fender of your truck will not be reused. The AUX tray doubles as a brace and the battery won't fit under the rainbow shaped brace. Also my battery had top and side posts. The top post was too close to the hood for my comfort but a red rubber cap from the battery section of the parts house covered up the hot terminal and provides insulation from the hood metal. This is similar the the plastic ones most batterys come with nowadays.

By the way my trucks handling and braking was notably improved by moving dead wieght to the usually light passenger side and back by about 2 feet. Just like on my race cars . Sooner or later I mount it to the frame under the bed in front of the right rear wheel to further enhance this and for better traction at a launch etc.

Vernon

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Vernon, after looking at the cables today, i think i will pass on cutting the factory end off of the (+) terminal on the drivers side and leave it just like it is with the jumper already attached to the fuse block. Then i will make a plastic cover to cover up the battery connection terminal. Sort of like the red plastic junction terminal under the whipple. That should work fine. Then i can set everything up on the other side pretty quickly.

Battery relocation
PCM/TCM relocation
oil cooler install
fan shroud fitting
charged air pipe install

.......these are the things i have left to do. All this just to install a DMAX intercooler..... .

Few other questions. First, I have a factory auxillary trany cooler from a 5.3L in the garage, do you think this would be sufficient to use as an engine oil cooler, or should i use the heavy duty B&M oil cooler?

Second, do you think the Dmax fan (with its 9 blades) would pull more air than our 5 blade fan? Do you think my clutch will work on a Dmax fan?

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

I think you should use the HD cooler, look at what you've built here. Remember that the Duramax fan set up is designed to pull air through a radiator and and an intercooler whereas the 8.1 stuff is not. Use the Duramax componentry as much as possible.

Vernon

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

I agree, I should be getting the fan and trany cooler outlet line in tomorrow. I am pretty confident i will be able to use the lower shroud with the new tranny line. If nothing else, it will give me an extra line to try and bend however i need it without worrying about messing up my original one. Those 1/2" lines are tough to bend.

Dmax Intercooler
Dmax Radiator
Dmax Fan shroud
Dmax Fan Blade
Dmax auxillary trany lines

I think im going to have the first 8.1L Dmax around...LOL.

Snake Eater

careful, that Dmax fan pulls lots of air at low rpms. There not made to spin really high and you could run into problems. I'd stick with the 8.1 fan.

Whippled 496

iTrader: (4)

hmmm, didnt think about that, good point. You think they have a max operating RPM limit? The 8.1L only revs to about 5000rpm. Thats not a whole lot more than the Dmax (i think they redline at like 3800). Would me installing the 8.1L clutch on the Dmax fan have any effect?

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

It seems to me that all fans would be designed for low rpm, since once you get moving, it's not as important. Just a thought.
If there is a difference, it might absorb a lot more power above its design speed. Just another thought.

Manic Mechanic

iTrader: (3)

Hmm, well unless the fan clutch is broken they never go above 3000 anyways. And when they do lock up it's very obvious. I've never seen a good stock fan fail on a stock bottom end engine.

Here's another thing, don't mix and match fans and clutches. If the DM fan does pull more air the 8.1 clutch may not be able to hold it long term.

Vernon