I can see both sides here, and I understand what you are saying....I feel it gets more confusing when you do it this way.

I just dont see the advantage of adding timing in a correction table. My understanding is a correction table should be used to protect the vehicle in extreme conditions. There has to be a reason why GMs calibrators do not use the correction table to add timing under normal driving conditions. I see that on a stock SS calibration that GM adds +2* @ 23* of IAT.......talk about extreme. I also see that in the same calibration +3* @ 77* of ECT, for driveability...this is what keeps the vehicle from stumbling until it reaches normal operatiing temp. Why use this for HP tuning? When it comes to tuning for HP, I feel it should be kept simple....this is not rocket science after all, its just tuning for power. If we were talking about driveability calibrations then yes, that would be science.

I guess it all depends on how you put your pants on in the morning, I start off with the left foot.

 

obviously you don't want me doing things like this on my own, so from now i won't touch tunes that i get from you.

i'll load the original tune that you sent me back in and get some new logs. the only reason i added the timing was just to see what would happen since the new 90mm TB went on. i got a little anxious.

 

Are there any ProCharger guys running a 90, and if so, is there the same amount of HP increase seen?

 

Don't take that as me taking a shot at you. I'm simply saying that adding the timing number that many others have done may put yours into a danger zone or into the low octane table. As you probably noticed, adding the 5º to yours likely didn't make it any faster.

 

An example of working with the heat tables is Holty's truck. He ran a: 12.667@105.60 1.801 60' with an AWD Silverado SS. Those numbers are with a stock camshaft, stock stall speed, and 20" wheels. Working the tables is the only way you're going to be able get a Radix truck to have enough timing to get that hard of a launch and still be pulling out the big end without KR* pulling all of it's timing.

 

This is what sold me! Start out high with cool temps, end low with high temps. Win win. Why lose timing at the end or have to give it up in the beginning?

 

I have NEVER messed with any of the correction tables that we are discussing, and I always start and close out my 1/4 run with the commanded timing.

 

On a cammed radix'd 5.3L maybe. On a properly tuned (prior to 90TB) radix'd 6.0L, You will not see that increase. Every application is different. I think that is key here.

I am running 19* overall timing with meth and am hitting a bit of KR in the 5K range.

 

that is correct, i could not really feel any difference after adding the timing.

 

So, when you are at the line, light goes yellow, what is your IAT?
What spark are you commanding?
How many #'s of boost?

Then at the finish, crossing 1320 what is your IAT?
spark? (I imagine for you it's the same as when you started, cuz you have it like that jk)
boost?

With whatever you answer with I am gonna suggest extra timing at the green light to produce a better 60'...but my suggestion isn't gonna be any good for when you cross the 1320, it'll be too high. Hence Zippy's add some timing down low while it's cool and you get away with it. I don't think the arguement is you can't get the same degree from the beginning to the end, I think the debate is, you can get more timing in the beginning for more power but taper it off back to a safer degree once the IAT starts to heat back up.