oldred95

Alright this is an extension of my other thread only this is supposed to be the actual build thread. So its going to be bolted to a Dart Little M 400 ci. small block with forged internals at 10:1 with Dart 230 aluminum heads. So like a fool I bought one of those XS power SBC turbo kits for 200 bucks and the drivers side header does fit but it exits like a block hugger so I may not even use it. Come to find out I should have bought a bunch of schedule 40 weld els and built my own. So that gets me to where I am now.

The passengers side will be a log style manifold. I'm unsure of what pipe size I need to be using here. I am thinking 2 1/2 inch (2 7/8 OD, 2 1/2 ID) schedule 40 would be idea for the main tube. For the short tube primaries from the exhaust ports to the main tubes I think 1 1/2 inch (1 7/8 OD, 1 5/8 ID) schedule 40 weld els's would work good. This would be based off a 1/2 inch thick header flange. I've read mixed feelings on log style manifold design. The general idea though is to get the exhaust pushed up to the turbo flange but I think angling each short primary to point towards the flange would be beneficial to help in directing the exhaust and providing a little better velocity within the system would it not?

Now what about the crossover? If the main "log" on the passengers side is done in 2 7/8 OD schedule 40 do I need to keep the crossover at 2 7/8 the entire length or does it need to step down to say 2 1/2 by the time it bolts up to the drivers side header?

As for the drivers side if I do build my own it will be done in schedule 40 as well. Probably be the same 1 1/2 primary tube size merging into a 4 into 1 collector in either 2 1/2 or 2 7/8 pipe depending on what you guys suggest. I know its important to maintain velocity in the system. I'm seriously considering doing the entire system in schedule 40, even the crossover. The reason for this is cost for one thing but the lack of equipment to work with stainless. I've got a Lincoln 215 mig welder and a cut off saw and, grinders and so on so working with mild steel just makes more sense. I've read mild steel is fine so long as its schedule 40 as its thick enough to handle the heat. I will also be heat wrapping everything hot side as well as the turbo down pipe and using a turbo blanket.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

So basically you want one of these, only for a SBC!

oldred95

Yea thats the general idea. The problem I'm going to run into is the size of the turbo and it being too close to the AC compressor. The good thing is I have tons of real estate in the passengers fender well area. The only thing on the passengers side is the coolant reservoir at the firewall, the battery has been moved to the drivers side and all the air cleaner silencer crap is gone. I can kick the turbo flange out a bit towards the fender well and should be good.

Phantom

iTrader: (16)

Why not buy one of the cheap kits on eBay for an sbc? They're surprisingly not bad pieces

oldred95

I did. They don't fit.

Do the pipe sizes sound right though? 1 5/8 ID primaries into a 2 1/2 ID inch collector to a 2 1/2 inch crossover into a 2 1/2 inch ID log header with 1 5/8 ID primaries feeding it to a T6 flange?

I was wondering about putting the waste gate somewhere further back in the system like the crossover. I guess it doesn't matter where it goes right so long as it can vent excess exhaust pressure or does it need to be near the end of the line to be the most effective? However I do it I will be connecting it to the turbo down pipe so I don't have to listen to the dang thing.

KB do you sell parts and pieces like the flanges and what not for people wanting to build their own kit?

Whats the best way to go about the down pipe? Is there something pre bent that can be tweaked to work on a kit of some sort with various bends or just order what you think will work and get to fabricating? Being I have a body lift there looks to be plenty of room even for a 4 inch down pipe. I got to thinking pretty hard about this and realized it would be a really good idea to build a bracket off the 80E that would weld to the down pipe to support it.

Gadgetized

iTrader: (9)

Did you get your heads yet? One of the most annoying parts was making the manifolds for the center ports. There are heads out there that have a spread port design that seems like it would be easier to make.

I think the sch 40 is a good idea. I made mine out of stainless. I guess we will see what happens when I fire it up.

oldred95

No I haven't gotten any engine parts yet. As much as I hate to it probably would be best to wait until I have the new engine built and set in the frame and build the headers around it. From what I read schedule 40 is so thick it acts a lot like a cast iron manifold from a durability standpoint. For now if I can get some suggestions on what size pipe to be using that would be great so I can start rounding things up.

1989k1500

iTrader: (23)

You can, but you shouldnt. The exhaust should have a straight shot at the gate and it should be able to vent both banks. If you do it in the crossover it might work out fine, or you might have overboosting problems that you see some guys on here have when they have it in the crossover.

This is good wastegate placement.



Just buy some 4" bends and go to town. And you should have way more than enough room for a 4" downpipe. A guy on here has a 5" downpipe in an 88-98 without a body lift.

02'Z71ONDUBZ'

iTrader: (8)

If you go with a 44mm or better yet a 60mm gate you wont have any problems with boost creep when placing it in the crossover. Its easy to route to the DP there also. You will have plenty of room under the hood to place it there on your setup though. Ever thought about stepping up to a 3" log since your at 400 cubes and using a T6 flange? I dont have any experience with that but I think it could improve power on the top end.

TrickTurbo

iTrader: (12)

I don't recommend building your crossover out of sch 40. Way to heavy and would stress your manifolds.
Gate works well in the crossover is sized properly.


We have many flanges in stock. The sbc head we can cut if you need.

I think your just up the road from me.

Rick