Installed 90mm tb. Wont Run!! Help please.
03-01-2006, 09:36 PM
#11
Jim, your like the odd man out here. None of us have a setup like yours so no one can say for sure what you will need. You may be in a trial and error type of a situation. Hence, the reason I asked if you tested everything before you bolted it up.
John at Speartech should have some ideas for you, good idea calling him
John at Speartech should have some ideas for you, good idea calling him
03-01-2006, 10:17 PM
#14
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The black box on the firewall!! When the first post was made ,about this mod I checked the number on that box, posted it and was told I was good to go. So I'm back to square one.
Tomorrow I'll check the connections. Chekck to see if the tb works and if not I'll call Speartech. Don't know what else I can do what with my total lack of know how.
Tomorrow I'll check the connections. Chekck to see if the tb works and if not I'll call Speartech. Don't know what else I can do what with my total lack of know how.
03-01-2006, 10:32 PM
#15
Originally Posted by JimS
Tomorrow I'll check the connections. Chekck to see if the tb works and if not I'll call Speartech. Don't know what else I can do what with my total lack of know how.
Sounds like it could be a wiring issue. I recall you having the specified TAC module and when I looked up the part number online it came up as being for an 02 vehicle.
If the throttle position sensor info doesn't jive with pedal position or the dual TP sensor signals aren't in sync with each other, then the PCM will go into reduced power mode.
03-01-2006, 10:41 PM
#16
For better or for worse, I spent some time screwing with my wiring, the 90mm TB, and reviewing tech docs. During my testing, I routinely got SES lights and reduced power warnings. Do you have any scanning software or any way to read the codes the PCM is setting? It would be very helpful to see your codes to compare with mine.
In general, the fact that you are getting an SES light and the reduced power mode warning indicates that the TAC (throttle actuator control) is not seeing what its expecting to see. That could mean its getting an incorrect response on one of the signal wires (the sensor1 and sensor2 wires are reversed). The + and ground for the sensors may be reversed. You may have a bad contact in the harness. Then it may just be an incompatibility in your setup, but I doubt that.
You have a unique harness. Describe the pinouts. Basically try to tell me what wires on your stock wiring harness get connected to the LS2 pins in this picture: (note - this is the plug view, not the TB)
In general, the fact that you are getting an SES light and the reduced power mode warning indicates that the TAC (throttle actuator control) is not seeing what its expecting to see. That could mean its getting an incorrect response on one of the signal wires (the sensor1 and sensor2 wires are reversed). The + and ground for the sensors may be reversed. You may have a bad contact in the harness. Then it may just be an incompatibility in your setup, but I doubt that.
You have a unique harness. Describe the pinouts. Basically try to tell me what wires on your stock wiring harness get connected to the LS2 pins in this picture: (note - this is the plug view, not the TB)
03-02-2006, 06:53 AM
#17
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DrX... BigTex I think both of you are saying that maybe the problem is in the harness and that maybe the wrong wires are going to the wrong pin.
BigTex... are you asking me to tell you what color wires go from the harness to the pins you are showing in the pic of the plug? Be aware that you have to use very low-tech language with me or I just won't be able to follow. For instance; I think the pic indicates wire colors but the abbreviations are not clear to me. And I'm not even sure that those abbreviations indicate wire colors. That's how low tech I am.
I'll be calling Speartech in a couple hours... after civilized folks have their coffee and are ready to tackle a problem.
Thanks, Jim (on top of not knowing a dammed thing about this technology I've had a terrible cold for 10 days now. My head and chest are full of gunk and I'm taking cough syrup and Mucinex by the hand full so my brain just won't seem to function properly at all. The congestion, coughing and medications are causing sleep problems and I feel disoriented and clumsy and confused. And of course all those problems caused a big cold sore that hurts like hell. I'm just all fucked up these last few days.... and I ain't too dammed sharp on a good day!
)
BigTex... are you asking me to tell you what color wires go from the harness to the pins you are showing in the pic of the plug? Be aware that you have to use very low-tech language with me or I just won't be able to follow. For instance; I think the pic indicates wire colors but the abbreviations are not clear to me. And I'm not even sure that those abbreviations indicate wire colors. That's how low tech I am.
I'll be calling Speartech in a couple hours... after civilized folks have their coffee and are ready to tackle a problem
. Thanks, Jim (on top of not knowing a dammed thing about this technology I've had a terrible cold for 10 days now. My head and chest are full of gunk and I'm taking cough syrup and Mucinex by the hand full so my brain just won't seem to function properly at all. The congestion, coughing and medications are causing sleep problems and I feel disoriented and clumsy and confused. And of course all those problems caused a big cold sore that hurts like hell. I'm just all fucked up these last few days.... and I ain't too dammed sharp on a good day!
)
Last edited by JimS; 03-02-2006 at 07:07 AM.
03-02-2006, 01:10 PM
#18
Jim - don't make this too difficult. Look at your factory harness. You should have 8 total wires, but only 6 of them are actually connected to the new TB. One by one, go through the wires and tell me the wire color (in your own words is fine) and which pin it connects to on the throttle body (use letters from the picture above).
Example - Yellow wire on factory harness passes through the speartech and ends up at the TB on pin B.
Example - Yellow wire on factory harness passes through the speartech and ends up at the TB on pin B.
03-02-2006, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BigTex
Jim - don't make this too difficult. Look at your factory harness. You should have 8 total wires, but only 6 of them are actually connected to the new TB. One by one, go through the wires and tell me the wire color (in your own words is fine) and which pin it connects to on the throttle body (use letters from the picture above).
Example - Yellow wire on factory harness passes through the speartech and ends up at the TB on pin B.
Example - Yellow wire on factory harness passes through the speartech and ends up at the TB on pin B.
Sorry for the almost hysterical crap. Tired and sick and drugged/medicated = poor functioning.
Looking at the Speartech plug that goes into the tb, per the pic you have provided, top row left to right the colors are green, yellow, brown. Bottom row; pink, purple, blue.
Today I had the wife try the accelerator w/key on and the tb did not work. I called Speartech and he had me look at the connectors to see if yellow went to yellow etc. All appeared to be well. Since I'm going to be out of town all week end anyway we agreed I'd send the harness back just to be sure it was ok and ended the call.
Even though I had previously detached and re-attached the new harness I decided to again try taking the harness off and reinstalling it to make sure the connecters were going together tightly. BINGO!! The truck started and ran GREAT. After revving it up a few times and letting it idle for a few seconds I shut it off. Tried starting it again and it went right back to sputtering. I went back and wiggled the connections and it started and had excellent throttle response. Shut it off. Tried starting it and again it just sputtered.
That was the process several times. Runs great. Shut off. Wont' run. Wiggle wires. Runs great. Wont' start... etc, etc... over and over. I tried isolating the problem... wiggle one connector and try to start it and it didn't matter which one I wiggeled it would run great but wouldn't run when tried again immediately after it was shut off. I finally stopped wiggleing wires and just waited about 30 seconds between trying to start it and it would start if I waited about 15 to 30 seconds, but would never start if I tried to start it immediately after shutting it off... it would just sputter just like it did last night.
Talked to John Spears several times during this process and I wondered if the Mass Air Sensor could be a problem. The geometry of my air tube connected to my KN air box is real tight and I wondered if I had damaged the MAS so John had me try starting the truck with the MAS disconnected and it sputtered. I reconnected the MAS and it still just sputtured but then a few seconds later it started and ran great. He is at a loss for words except to suspect that the tb is not working correctly. My thought too. What else could it be?
Since I'll be out of town and will not be able to work on it all weekend we agreed that I would send the harness back to him.... just to eliminate the harness from the list of possible problems. UPS has the harness now.
Any ideas what it could be? Almost got to be the harness or the tb.. right?
Thanks, Jim
03-02-2006, 07:02 PM
#20
Did you ever check to see what codes were tripping off the SES light? Those codes will probably narrow down the possible causes.
The TAC/PCM goes through a quick self test when you turn the key on. Its at this point it learns the sensor voltage ranges for full open, closed, and parked blade positions. If something isn't right, it sets off the SES. Are you trying to crank it during the test? (turning the key from off position to crank in one single motion)
You know, this is exactly why it would be better to modify the stock radix flange instead of cutting it off and welding on another - you could easily run the stock TB until you figure out the 90mm issue.
The TAC/PCM goes through a quick self test when you turn the key on. Its at this point it learns the sensor voltage ranges for full open, closed, and parked blade positions. If something isn't right, it sets off the SES. Are you trying to crank it during the test? (turning the key from off position to crank in one single motion)
You know, this is exactly why it would be better to modify the stock radix flange instead of cutting it off and welding on another - you could easily run the stock TB until you figure out the 90mm issue.