YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

So I'm looking into everything in prep for a future 5.3 turbo build. I'm thinking a 5.3 8psi max boost but don't know if most turbo kits will get what I want.

I'd like a big turbo with a lot of lag so or another set up so I'm not cruising down the interstate at 70-80 and under boost the whole time not using it. Granted it should be running about 2200 rpm or so. Not sure when most of these kits start spooling as it sounds like turbo size, gearing, maybe torque converter, etc has a lot of variables.

I'm planning on rebuilding the 5.3 and when I do I've been told to build it for 9.5:1 compression. Is this a good compression to have to run 8psi?

When I was big into imports a lot of guys were running turbo timers and boost controllers, is this common in most kits or is it just having the right spring in the wastegate?

JordanH

iTrader: (16)

For only 8psi you don't have to touch the inside of your motor, just strap a turbo to it and go

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

For that low of boost you will be better off with a procharger or roots/screw blower. All stock (except valve springs) will take 8-10psi all day.

You dont want it laggy, you just want it sized correctly. A lot of guys run spring only, but the more serious guys have all the gadgets. Nothing wrong with spring only.

kbracing96

iTrader: (26)

You don't get boost just because your driving down the road at a certain rpm. You have to have load. Like as in steeping down hard on the gas or pulling up a hill will a heavy load. Normal driving there is no boost. Boost is controlled by how much throttle you give it, not rpm. A bigger fuel system is all a stock motor needs for those boost levels.

JordanH

iTrader: (16)

What year/generation truck are we talking about here?

zrultima

You have to understand boost is a restriction you have to worry more about flow. You wont need any valvetrain work really for 8psi if your building for more then 12 I would do valve spring retainers pushrods replace lifters. A good turbo would be a box 366 t4 turbo . All you need to see is the A/R the higher the A/r the longer it will take to spool up. If you like you can get a s475 or a s480 and ride around with 1 or 2 psi at 70 depending if your cruising

YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

I'm looking at 04+ since ive read they are better generation and I definitely want a 02+ for a full 4-door ext cab, not the 3-door. Not to concerned about the generation block since everyone is pretty confident in my lower hp numbers as a DD should be fine.

See I have so much to learn about turbo systems. I thought once the motor reaches a RPM range then the turbo starts to spool up, didn't know it had to be under load. Just doesn't make sense since the exhaust doesn't know load and the turbo runs off exhaust. I remember going racing with my buddies 87 GN and OMNI GLHS and other turbo Dodges they would all take forever to stage and prestage to build boost. The Dodges with 5-speeds just couldn't build boost, as I'm guessing they weren't under load. I'll have to get "turbos for dummies".

I really just want to know what some of the set ups everyone has or someone to tell me exactly what to do. Just too many options, but I like to learn and want to understand.

I would really like to just get a recipe from ECU to Trans for a 500 WHP set up. Just so many people have so many different set ups.

I would like to know the following to be a good 500 WHP reliable DD to do some occasional boat towing:

1. Turbo system such as a Trick or KB
2. Turbo size, sounds like a 366 T4 is a good choice
3. What size spring and what PSI should that produce
4. Tuner such as a Black Bear, HP, or might do a local shop here in Charlotte such as PC
5. Valve train upgrades or not
6. 60 or 80 trans and what upgrades (some say a 60 can be built, the majority say thats gonna explode and just suck it up and do a 80 with a shift kit and corvette servo and a better set up clutches. I'm not doing a lot of launches on slicks or anything crazy) There are a few companies that rate a 60 for a 600+.
7. Torque Converter info. I was thinking a tight Circle D 2600, single disk, 265mm
8. Upgraded cam or just keep stock
9. Fuel system upgrades such as injectors and fuel pump. I read a walboro 400 for pump and some 80lb injectors
10. To throw another "wrench" into it, I'm sooooo funny, I need it to meet emissions standards for NC's stupid emissions crap. Shouldn't be a problem since I will have O2 sensors and some high flow cat.
11. Whatever else I'm probably forgetting.

Sorry for all the repeat questions or sounding stubborn. Just trying to do all the research and get a nice set up without too many headaches after everything is installed and getting it working well. A couple say I'm over thinking it and just throw a turbo on it or a SC, but I'm not doing a SC. If I'm going to spend the time and money on a decent system then while I'm there I might as well prep some of the top end for more boost. If I can get away with running a built 60 for now while running about 8-10 psi that would be awesome, but if my desire is compromising reliability then I will not hesitate and just put in a 80. Or I just throw a system on it and cross my fingers, but I think I'm setting myself up for failure.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Turbo spools based on pressure and heat...you get more pressure with more heat and more rpm, you get more heat with more "load". For instance, put a turbo car in neutral and rev it to 6000 and tell me how much boost it makes. The answer will probably be none.

1. Both are good
2. Yep, about that. 500whp is not that aggressive for modern turbos.
3. 8-10psi would probably get you there.
4. I would get a local shop to tune it, but one that has a clue what they are doing. There are a lot of hack tuners out there and the good ones arent cheap.
5. Upgrade valve springs at least.
6. Pretty easy to just do an 80e with a shift kit, especially towing under boost.
7. Sounds good. PI, PTC, or yank are also good ones. Most companies can make an 80e converter fit a 60e flexplate if you tell them.
8. Upgraded cam will get you a lot more power. Triple 12 from stock48 is a highly recommend DD type cam.
9. That would be a good start. See the sticky I made in the fuel section for some hard numbers.
10. Good look with that...it will obviously fail a visual inspection.

Heres a good book I really liked to get you in the know on turbo systems in general Its a little math heavy but you can skip that part if you just want to read about the theory.

YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

Awesome. Great response!! I just sent local shop PC of NC to see if they think they could get it to meet NC emissions standards.

Anyone else want to weigh in about their experience or what their rides combination is?

YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

Ok Atomic, I read your thread on pumps and injectors and flow and all that fancy stuff. Looks like I could get by with a single walboro 450 and 60lb injectors? If I put bigger injectors that wouldn't hurt anything would it?

Ive read that the regulator won't handle that Walboro 450 and it would be a huge waste of fuel. Also read that I would need a different fuel rail. Also something about a returning fuel line.

What's up with this Hobbs Switch thingy? I see it and something about adjusting PSI for boost. Would I need this? It looks like it is just for a second pump and when it starts to build boost and needed more fuel this signals the second pump to start?

What is easiest and most reliable for controlling boost....just a spring or get this E-Boost 2 or is that not necessary?

I thing it would be good to have something to monitor max boost, and some way to figure detonation. I remember my buddy always watching some bar gauge with +/- bar. Not really sure on if that even makes sene what I just said. For me simple is best and I don't need a lot of adjustability, but sure would be cool to adjust max boost whenever I want.