BigKID

iTrader: (5)

Maybe sooner than later.

I have a ? about the fuel distribution block that comes with the tuner kit. Does it include a regulator with a fitting for a return line or will an aftermarket regulator have to be used on a pre-03 truck? Also do you know or can you speculate if the MultecII truck injectors will work with the KB manifold and fuel rails? I would presume there is a height issue with the supplied bracketry for the rails but I am more concerned with the injector boss diameters.

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

Hey BigKID - good to see you around. Don't be a stranger.

LSxChevelle

iTrader: (4)

Cory, get that thing on a dyno yet? I'm pretty sure this is the way I'll go for the Chevelle.

Goal is to have 3 KB vehicles...
Pro Touring Chevelle - 454LSx w/ 2.8L big bore!
99-04 Mustang street/drag car - 5.3L (Marks)
'05 Vette daily driver - 427 w/ 2.8L

Think I can get a large order discount? haha

gmforlife

iTrader: (2)

Just want to post so i can keep track of how things are progressing. NICE BUILD UP

CHarris

iTrader: (5)

Sorry... I don't have the answers to those questions. I would think that if you bought the silverado full install kit you would have the items you need. They did ask me some questions when I ordered it that would imply they have the parts you need as options. But... If I were ordering the KB I would go ahead and abandon the shorty injectors at that time. They won't last long for you unless you stay low boost. With 60's you would have lots of headroom on most set ups. I'm now running ~12 psi on my combo and the 60's are at about 90-95% injector on time at peak load.

CHarris

iTrader: (5)

Updates....

Still no dyno or good track runs. Been working through some things. Here's the laundry list:


1... Spun stock crank pulley. I actually heard a loud "tink" sound at the track a few weeks back and my exhaust blew open on the passenger side after the cat. The slip fit pipe coupling separated and the slip-in pipe was actually as large as the uotside slip pipe. Very weird. The pipes expanded slightly and would not fit back in the other tube. Now they are a butt joint... lol. I was running the 3.5 pulley and saw some weird boost fluctuations right before the traps. That should have keyed me on the crank bolt... but I didn't see it for a couple more weeks. Anyway... It ran 14.37 with some AFR's in the 10.0 range (smoking black) and some stupid back pressure.

A couple weeks later I found the bolt was missing from the crankshaft when I was poking around under the hood trying to figure out why my AC was no longer working. It tossed the AC belt when it lost the bolt at the track. I had been driving around for at least two weeks with no bolt at all as I continued to work on WOT tuning. Boost was solid so I guess it welded itself to the crank in the right place. Never tossed the serpentine belt at all. But I couldn't leave it as it was and trust it.

I really didn't want to change the crank pulley at that time as I wanted to continue to max out the combo at that level. Well... as things happen the plans must change. If I was going to pin a crank shaft I wasn't doing it twice. So I ordered the Innovators West overdrive crank pulley. I ordered it from the source and was told it would be made the next day and then overnighted as I requested. Well... a week passes and no pulley. I call back and they say they never even made it. So... I was pretty pissed off that the owner took down all my info and never bother to call me when his time line changed. Talk about bad customer service... not even concerned when I cancelled the order either. A guess a "word" isn't worth much there. I called up A&A in california to figure out what to do next. I was in luck... I talked to Andy and he said he had one in stock for a build up that was not used. I could have it for the same price. This worked well for me as I could have it shipped next day and it used an old stock item for A&A. Win/Win and no new order for Innovators West.

Removing the old pulley took for ever. It had spun really badlyand did not want to break loose. I had a rigg consisting of a cut down 3 jaw puller with wood wedge blocks driven in between the jaws and the outer hub ring. Eventually I had to dremel down the spots where the puller pulled from to make it work. This balancer did not want to come off at all. I think it finally took about 4 hours of dinking around after I got a method to work It took about 6 hours to find the right method. Fortunately... the crank came out very clean. Thankfully the forging was tough! The stock pulley went into the trash. It had lots of ridges and was clearly toast.

CHarris

iTrader: (5)

Issues part 2

#2... Once I got the new over drive pulley installed I was fighting a belt throwing issue. I lost my belt included with the blower kit. Just completley shredded it as the truck shifted from first to second gear.
I changed my tensioner pulley out from a 75mm stocker to a 70mm factory replacement. This allowed me to snug up the belt some by moving the stationary blower idler pulley into a tighter position. This got me about halfway through the range of motion on the tensioner. Better... but not good enough. So I went on the hunt for a bigger idler pulley to put on the other side of the blower. Factory is a 90mm so I needed a 100mm one. (Sidebar... yes I used to have a METCO 100mm Idler but I sold it when I sold my Radix). So I go to the parts stores in the area and start prowling around in the back opening and measuring everything. I find a 100mm at the third store I try. I'm thinking "score!!!". I go home... install it and it fits fine. The tnesioner is about an 1/8 inch inside from the full tight marking on the tensioner. Good to go I think.
I drive it easy for a day or so to get a feel for if it will work. All seems well so I blip the throttle into boost at about a 40mph roll. The truck goes nowhere and the Check engine light comes on. I pull over and pop the hood... the belt is wadded up around the crank and the new 100mm pulley is broken in half! the instantaneous drag (TORQUE!!) snapped the outer hub off the bearing. This pulley was the same style construction as the factory one - a piece of steel with multiple bends from the bearing to the outher belt surface. clearly not the same quality though.

So I patch it up with the stock pulley and stay out of boost while I decide what to do. It is a short process. I get on the phone and order a 100mm METCO again. These will not break and METCO gives great customer service! I then take the cheap *** broken pulley back to Autozone for a $25 refund. Yes... I did rip the hub off a free spinning pulley... it was not overtightened or bound up in any way. What really blows is that I wasted a $60 Gates belt when that pulley broke. So I wasted $60 trying a cheap foreign made 100mm stock replacement pulley when I could have bought the metco for $65 plus shipping and been done. Leason to learn... buy METCO first!

So... got the Metco installed and all is well... or so it would seem

CHarris

iTrader: (5)

Soooo..... I never got to wring out the combo at the last 10 psi peak boost level. But it was safe to continue on as I still had lots of injector left and everything was going fine with the blower and engine. With the crank pulley fixed/upgraded and the resultant belt shreding issues now apparently solved I'm starting to work on further development of the combo again.

It was gettng to be pretty impressive as it was refined at the last level. This new phase is just silly. I'm seeing about 10 psi average boost now with ~12 at the peak. The truck is getting to be very violent again. It takes a very quick large transitional change in horsepower to get this truck out of shape. The radix was getting it done in its last form with the help of the yank 3000 convertor. Now its just ridiculous. Step on the gas fast and its just pulling hard and slipping the front wheels and the rears as well. I would guess I'm running in the 13's now without nitrous and with two cats still installed.

My 60 lb injectors are at 90-95%. Stock descreened MAF is maxed at about 3800-4000 rpm depending on outside temps.

I've definitely decided the cats have to go... I think I can hear them starting to break up a little. And the truck is stupid loud under boost right now with them. The Corsa touring has been great... but its time has passed. There is no way it can keep up with the volume I'm moving through the exhaust now. I'm looking at building a complete new exhaust to try to tame it. Likely some type of bullets where the cats are and then likely two more mufflers inline on each bank. Once I get this done I'll be back at the track for more.

CHarris

iTrader: (5)

I took Friday evening and decided to get a look at the health of the driveline in the H2.

As some may recall, I went supercharged at about 2500 miles with the new truck. I had the transmission fully rebuilt with all billet hard parts (except output and input shafts) at 10000 miles and at Yank 3000 pro installed at the same time. The stock longblock tossed two pistons the same night the tranny was rebuilt. We changed the transfer case fluid the same night when the trans was apart.

The new supercharger went on at about 18000 miles. The chassis now has 20,300 miles on it. Clearly the last few have done some hard work.

The front diff was drained and the fluid looked very clean considering it was never changed and has 20,000 miles on it. The front Diff takes about 40% of the power. Its now refilled with Royal Purple 75/140.

The transfer case fluid was changed 10,000 miles ago and still looked very good. It takes regular DEXRON III ATF. About 1.5 qts. Its amazing to me that it comes out looking so good with so little fluid. Refilled with regular Dexron III.

The rear diff looked like it had some more miles than 20K but still not bad. The regular amount of metallic haze in the oil as it flowed into the drain pan. Nothing to be concerned about at all. Refilled with Royal Purple 75/140 as well.

The transmission pan was also dropped and the filter changed as well as the 5+ qts of fluid replaced that are lost with a drain and filter change. The pan was very clean all things considered. Not a bit of sludge. A little bit of metal dust on the magnet- probably normal for a regular transmission with more mileage. No big deal, really. The fluid was looking tired, though. A definite orangish-brown color. Did not smell burned at all though. Clearly the trans is working hard now and I need to keep an eye on its health. Its handling way more power then ever intended and twice the weight of a normal race car making this level of power. I did install a larger trans cooler right after the fluids were all installed. Hopefully this helps keep the fluid from breaking down. We will see!

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Thats what I call a good update....