A low cost powerdyne mod.
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Tribe Shaman
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A low cost powerdyne mod.
always looking to make things better, I have found a new mod for my powerdyne to help with belt slip.
right now I am still testing it, so far no slip at all and the belt is not as tight as I am use to running it.
running a shorter belt requires you to bypass the idler pulley next to the alternator.
I have found a new place for this pulley.
parts needed.
1. 3/8's 5 1/2 inch bolt course thread
1. pack of 3/8's washers
1. 3/8's small pipe union, it is about 1 1/2 inches long.
pop the retaining ring from the back of the idler pulley and remove the stock bolt.
remove the center hex head bolt from the head unit, this will put the pulley right in line with the head units drive pulley.
you may need to remove and install the pulley to remove or add washers to line it up and maintain clearance from the head unit.
use the pipe union at the base to make it a little more solid
with the pulley installed in to it's new location the belt will now run a Z pattern and wrap around the drive pulley more for increased traction from belt to pulley contact.
as you tighten the tensor pulley you will see that you will have plenty of clearance.
right now my two pulleys are 3/4 inch apart inside belt to belt
so far now on slick streets I have rev the motor on up to 6000 rpm's, my belt is not as tight as it was before, so far no squeal, no chirp, no nothing from under the hood as to having a lose belt, the boost gauge is steady and solid with no indication of belt slip.
so far I have only one plus to report, at 5200 rpm's I would see 10 psi, now I am seeing 11 psi on the boost gauge at the same rpm.
adding a pic or 2
right now I am still testing it, so far no slip at all and the belt is not as tight as I am use to running it.
running a shorter belt requires you to bypass the idler pulley next to the alternator.
I have found a new place for this pulley.
parts needed.
1. 3/8's 5 1/2 inch bolt course thread
1. pack of 3/8's washers
1. 3/8's small pipe union, it is about 1 1/2 inches long.
pop the retaining ring from the back of the idler pulley and remove the stock bolt.
remove the center hex head bolt from the head unit, this will put the pulley right in line with the head units drive pulley.
you may need to remove and install the pulley to remove or add washers to line it up and maintain clearance from the head unit.
use the pipe union at the base to make it a little more solid
with the pulley installed in to it's new location the belt will now run a Z pattern and wrap around the drive pulley more for increased traction from belt to pulley contact.
as you tighten the tensor pulley you will see that you will have plenty of clearance.
right now my two pulleys are 3/4 inch apart inside belt to belt
so far now on slick streets I have rev the motor on up to 6000 rpm's, my belt is not as tight as it was before, so far no squeal, no chirp, no nothing from under the hood as to having a lose belt, the boost gauge is steady and solid with no indication of belt slip.
so far I have only one plus to report, at 5200 rpm's I would see 10 psi, now I am seeing 11 psi on the boost gauge at the same rpm.
adding a pic or 2
Last edited by PappyDan; 01-23-2006 at 10:56 PM.
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