Magnafuel pump questions
08-30-2010, 09:59 PM
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Magnafuel pump questions
I know a handful of guys on here run Magnafuel fuel pumps, so this is to you guys. I'm thinking about redoing my fuel system. I am thinking about mounting a Magnafuel 4301 on the frame rail. There would be a 5/8" pick-up tube in the tank. A 10an hose would feed the pump. From the pump, it would be 8an hose, Y'd before the fuel rails. I would run 6an hose for the return. My question is, would it be alright for the pump to run continuously, even at idle? I guess what I'm trying to say is, would it heat the fuel up too much running it continuously? Any help would be appreciated.
08-31-2010, 01:46 AM
#2
4301 and 4303 pumps are continuous duty pumps. I did a lot of research on this before I purchased my 4303 and did not find any failures on street cars from running for long periods of time. That being said, they do heat the fuel up pretty good. How much fuel you have in the tank will determine how bad the heat issue will be. I've heard of some guys running an inline cooler to keep the temps down. Much like a trans cooler with a built in fan, and run it on the return side. Don't let the tank get low, run a cooler and a -8 return line and you should be good to go.
About your pickup tube. These pumps do a very good job of flowing big volume at efi pressures, but they are not very good at sucking the fuel up to the pump. Magnafuel recommends a -12 line to feed the pump from the tank (which is what I use) and for the pump to be mounted as close to and underneath the tank outlet if possible (sumped). Also, I'm not sure how will it well work trying to pickup and suck fuel through a 5/8" tube that will be at least 12-14" long (maybe longer, I don't remember the stock tank). That becomes a very heavy column of fuel to lift. Keep in mind, I don't have experience with this sort of pickup, but it is something to think about. I might work perfectly fine.
If your gonna drop the 1500+ bux on this setup it might be wise to just go ahead and put a sumped cell in the back (in or under the bed) or have someone like dbrods build you a custom tank with a sump that bolts in the factory location. The extra money spent here, I think would save you some headaches.
In addition to the -12 feeding the pump, you need to run at least a -10 from the pump to the y before the rails, then -8 to each rail. Also, with a pump flowing this much volume you need a minimum -8 for the return. A -6 return will hurt pump life and heat the fuel more.
If you call Jegs, they sell this setup as I described with out hose or hose ends for $1000, which is a hell of a good deal. It comes with 4301 pump, pre and post filters, regulator, Y-block and every single -orb fitting you need to make it work. All you have to do is buy the hose ends and hose. Thats what I did and had them upgrade the pump to the 4303 for about $100 extra. I also bought a dual relay harness as well. I have about $1600 in my fuel setup, less injectors and tank, and it should support an easy 1200-1400 rwhp FI on gasoline with the right injectors.
Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you need further explaination on anything. Sorry for the long reply, I just started typing and................
About your pickup tube. These pumps do a very good job of flowing big volume at efi pressures, but they are not very good at sucking the fuel up to the pump. Magnafuel recommends a -12 line to feed the pump from the tank (which is what I use) and for the pump to be mounted as close to and underneath the tank outlet if possible (sumped). Also, I'm not sure how will it well work trying to pickup and suck fuel through a 5/8" tube that will be at least 12-14" long (maybe longer, I don't remember the stock tank). That becomes a very heavy column of fuel to lift. Keep in mind, I don't have experience with this sort of pickup, but it is something to think about. I might work perfectly fine.
If your gonna drop the 1500+ bux on this setup it might be wise to just go ahead and put a sumped cell in the back (in or under the bed) or have someone like dbrods build you a custom tank with a sump that bolts in the factory location. The extra money spent here, I think would save you some headaches.
In addition to the -12 feeding the pump, you need to run at least a -10 from the pump to the y before the rails, then -8 to each rail. Also, with a pump flowing this much volume you need a minimum -8 for the return. A -6 return will hurt pump life and heat the fuel more.
If you call Jegs, they sell this setup as I described with out hose or hose ends for $1000, which is a hell of a good deal. It comes with 4301 pump, pre and post filters, regulator, Y-block and every single -orb fitting you need to make it work. All you have to do is buy the hose ends and hose. Thats what I did and had them upgrade the pump to the 4303 for about $100 extra. I also bought a dual relay harness as well. I have about $1600 in my fuel setup, less injectors and tank, and it should support an easy 1200-1400 rwhp FI on gasoline with the right injectors.
Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you need further explaination on anything. Sorry for the long reply, I just started typing and................
08-31-2010, 09:01 AM
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4301 and 4303 pumps are continuous duty pumps. I did a lot of research on this before I purchased my 4303 and did not find any failures on street cars from running for long periods of time. That being said, they do heat the fuel up pretty good. How much fuel you have in the tank will determine how bad the heat issue will be. I've heard of some guys running an inline cooler to keep the temps down. Much like a trans cooler with a built in fan, and run it on the return side. Don't let the tank get low, run a cooler and a -8 return line and you should be good to go.
About your pickup tube. These pumps do a very good job of flowing big volume at efi pressures, but they are not very good at sucking the fuel up to the pump. Magnafuel recommends a -12 line to feed the pump from the tank (which is what I use) and for the pump to be mounted as close to and underneath the tank outlet if possible (sumped). Also, I'm not sure how will it well work trying to pickup and suck fuel through a 5/8" tube that will be at least 12-14" long (maybe longer, I don't remember the stock tank). That becomes a very heavy column of fuel to lift. Keep in mind, I don't have experience with this sort of pickup, but it is something to think about. I might work perfectly fine.
If your gonna drop the 1500+ bux on this setup it might be wise to just go ahead and put a sumped cell in the back (in or under the bed) or have someone like dbrods build you a custom tank with a sump that bolts in the factory location. The extra money spent here, I think would save you some headaches.
In addition to the -12 feeding the pump, you need to run at least a -10 from the pump to the y before the rails, then -8 to each rail. Also, with a pump flowing this much volume you need a minimum -8 for the return. A -6 return will hurt pump life and heat the fuel more.
If you call Jegs, they sell this setup as I described with out hose or hose ends for $1000, which is a hell of a good deal. It comes with 4301 pump, pre and post filters, regulator, Y-block and every single -orb fitting you need to make it work. All you have to do is buy the hose ends and hose. Thats what I did and had them upgrade the pump to the 4303 for about $100 extra. I also bought a dual relay harness as well. I have about $1600 in my fuel setup, less injectors and tank, and it should support an easy 1200-1400 rwhp FI on gasoline with the right injectors.
Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you need further explaination on anything. Sorry for the long reply, I just started typing and................
About your pickup tube. These pumps do a very good job of flowing big volume at efi pressures, but they are not very good at sucking the fuel up to the pump. Magnafuel recommends a -12 line to feed the pump from the tank (which is what I use) and for the pump to be mounted as close to and underneath the tank outlet if possible (sumped). Also, I'm not sure how will it well work trying to pickup and suck fuel through a 5/8" tube that will be at least 12-14" long (maybe longer, I don't remember the stock tank). That becomes a very heavy column of fuel to lift. Keep in mind, I don't have experience with this sort of pickup, but it is something to think about. I might work perfectly fine.
If your gonna drop the 1500+ bux on this setup it might be wise to just go ahead and put a sumped cell in the back (in or under the bed) or have someone like dbrods build you a custom tank with a sump that bolts in the factory location. The extra money spent here, I think would save you some headaches.
In addition to the -12 feeding the pump, you need to run at least a -10 from the pump to the y before the rails, then -8 to each rail. Also, with a pump flowing this much volume you need a minimum -8 for the return. A -6 return will hurt pump life and heat the fuel more.
If you call Jegs, they sell this setup as I described with out hose or hose ends for $1000, which is a hell of a good deal. It comes with 4301 pump, pre and post filters, regulator, Y-block and every single -orb fitting you need to make it work. All you have to do is buy the hose ends and hose. Thats what I did and had them upgrade the pump to the 4303 for about $100 extra. I also bought a dual relay harness as well. I have about $1600 in my fuel setup, less injectors and tank, and it should support an easy 1200-1400 rwhp FI on gasoline with the right injectors.
Let me know if you have any other questions, or if you need further explaination on anything. Sorry for the long reply, I just started typing and................
I know the Lonnies kit is nicely built, and alot of guys run them, it's just something about having one pump that I like.
08-31-2010, 10:12 AM
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My 4301 is mounted in front of the tank and seems to do fine picking up fuel out of the stock bucket. I dont run a cooler, and I do have a -6 return. I have a single relay hot wire kit running mine currently.
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