NA going to FI - Need Help Please?
05-15-2012 | 11:04 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 209
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From: NC
NA going to FI - Need Help Please?
I could use some direction and help please. i have always been N/A.
Sold off a 304 AMC build to do this. Look this over and tell me what i need to change? This is a DD with summer track pulls.
403 LQ9
non-ported L92's
stock LS3 intake
FAST 60#inj/Fuel rails
Aeromotive 340/Hot Wire kit
Farrea Hollow stems
PAC duals
Morel linked lifters
Comp's trunion upgrade
chromolly PR
Forged Diamond Dishes
clevite's all around
Hedman LT's 1-7/8's inside frame rail
behind the cab under the truck mounted single 73mm - 10# boost
The valvetrain/motor will be built to handle dual 73mm's down the road, heads and such can be ported later. I am also new to FI and would like to keep the turbo small to reduce lag.
I have designed a cam for the setup but could use a bit more help. i am not sure i am on the right track. Block is in my hands waiting for machine work. Heads are sourced and still need to buy pistons/rings (proper gap for NA or FI accordingly) and intake.
This will be hydraulic roller
234/238 112 .540/.570
So far so good? What is turbo A/R ratio? Information on how backpressure effects the setup for a turbo? How to reduce turbo lag? Other options for cooling the turbo? Any problems running such a long cold side?
Ideally i would like to get 600 to the wheels with this setup and be happy with mid to low 10's - 2800# S10.
Sold off a 304 AMC build to do this. Look this over and tell me what i need to change? This is a DD with summer track pulls.
403 LQ9
non-ported L92's
stock LS3 intake
FAST 60#inj/Fuel rails
Aeromotive 340/Hot Wire kit
Farrea Hollow stems
PAC duals
Morel linked lifters
Comp's trunion upgrade
chromolly PR
Forged Diamond Dishes
clevite's all around
Hedman LT's 1-7/8's inside frame rail
behind the cab under the truck mounted single 73mm - 10# boost
The valvetrain/motor will be built to handle dual 73mm's down the road, heads and such can be ported later. I am also new to FI and would like to keep the turbo small to reduce lag.
I have designed a cam for the setup but could use a bit more help. i am not sure i am on the right track. Block is in my hands waiting for machine work. Heads are sourced and still need to buy pistons/rings (proper gap for NA or FI accordingly) and intake.
This will be hydraulic roller
234/238 112 .540/.570
So far so good? What is turbo A/R ratio? Information on how backpressure effects the setup for a turbo? How to reduce turbo lag? Other options for cooling the turbo? Any problems running such a long cold side?
Ideally i would like to get 600 to the wheels with this setup and be happy with mid to low 10's - 2800# S10.
05-15-2012 | 11:47 PM
#2
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,266
Likes: 394
From: Huntsville, AL
-Im guessing you mean 402 (4in stroke, 4.005" bore) so you can use off the shelf pistons. Depending on your power goals, a top ring gap of 0.025" should be a good middle of the road.
-The L92s like a lot of lift to really flow. I would pick a cam lobe with at least 600 lift and have springs accordingly. The duration looks fine, if not a little large for a DD. I have a 226/226 117 in my 402, and it drives great.
-You are going to be pushing it with only 60lb injectors and 600hp...I would do 80s right off the bat. 10s will not be a problem in such a light truck with 600hp.
-Turbo A/R is the ratio of the area of the exhaust housing to the radius of the housing. In generally, the bigger the A/R the more power it can support but the more lag it has. You want backpressure to be close to 1:1 with boost, but not more than 2:1 (backpressure:boost). Excessive backpressure means your turbo hot side is too small and/or you are running too much boost. Most turbos are oil-cooled, while some are water cooled as well. Cooling turbos is not usually a problem. Guys do rear mounts all the time and they work fine, but there will be slightly more lag in the setup.
-Unless you plan on turning very high rpms you dont need fancy valves or or lifters, the stock ones work fine.
-Depending which 73 you have, that is generally a good match for that size engine and should spool very well despite being a rear-mount. I have a 76 on my 402 and make about 750hp with 15psi, but I do have ported L92 heads.
-You wont need the longtube headers, the stock manifolds will work fine. This isnt an NA engine, and when you add a turbo in the exhaust you basically negate the need for longtubes. You may see gain some, but its not a mandatory upgrade like NA. I use stock manifolds on mine.
-You didnt mention an intercooler, but I would definitely have one.
It seems like you have a pretty solid plan, but I really dont think you will be that stressed to make 600hp or mid to low 10s in such a light truck. You could save a lot of money but just using a stock rotating assembly with the 6.0 block, throw some stock l92s on it, and let it eat at 10lbs. A single 73 could probably take a stock 6.0 to more like 15lbs. If that doesnt do it, get the heads ported. If you still want more go ahead and do the machine work for a 402, but I really dont think you need that for your goals. 600hp is not that hard with a turbo and a 6.0.
-The L92s like a lot of lift to really flow. I would pick a cam lobe with at least 600 lift and have springs accordingly. The duration looks fine, if not a little large for a DD. I have a 226/226 117 in my 402, and it drives great.
-You are going to be pushing it with only 60lb injectors and 600hp...I would do 80s right off the bat. 10s will not be a problem in such a light truck with 600hp.
-Turbo A/R is the ratio of the area of the exhaust housing to the radius of the housing. In generally, the bigger the A/R the more power it can support but the more lag it has. You want backpressure to be close to 1:1 with boost, but not more than 2:1 (backpressure:boost). Excessive backpressure means your turbo hot side is too small and/or you are running too much boost. Most turbos are oil-cooled, while some are water cooled as well. Cooling turbos is not usually a problem. Guys do rear mounts all the time and they work fine, but there will be slightly more lag in the setup.
-Unless you plan on turning very high rpms you dont need fancy valves or or lifters, the stock ones work fine.
-Depending which 73 you have, that is generally a good match for that size engine and should spool very well despite being a rear-mount. I have a 76 on my 402 and make about 750hp with 15psi, but I do have ported L92 heads.
-You wont need the longtube headers, the stock manifolds will work fine. This isnt an NA engine, and when you add a turbo in the exhaust you basically negate the need for longtubes. You may see gain some, but its not a mandatory upgrade like NA. I use stock manifolds on mine.
-You didnt mention an intercooler, but I would definitely have one.
It seems like you have a pretty solid plan, but I really dont think you will be that stressed to make 600hp or mid to low 10s in such a light truck. You could save a lot of money but just using a stock rotating assembly with the 6.0 block, throw some stock l92s on it, and let it eat at 10lbs. A single 73 could probably take a stock 6.0 to more like 15lbs. If that doesnt do it, get the heads ported. If you still want more go ahead and do the machine work for a 402, but I really dont think you need that for your goals. 600hp is not that hard with a turbo and a 6.0.
05-16-2012 | 12:49 AM
#3
About the best advice i can give is to Skip the rear mount and go straight to front. A 408 will not have alot of lag and I would use at least an 80mm with t-6 hot pipes. Make sure you have 80e Trans and get a good converter.
