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New project. 2003 rcsb turbo.

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Old 07-19-2016 | 12:57 PM
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Default New project. 2003 rcsb turbo.

Hi guys so I started a new project that truck. It is a 2003 silverado rcsb rwd 4.8. I've only had the truck for a couple months and I think I have acummulated enough parts to start my turbo build. I'm here for advice on part selection and eventually tuning when it gets together. If anyone has used an on3 kit before please lmk what kinds of problems u ran into

My part list so far (please lmk what I'm missing or if I need a different or hight quality part)

03 rcsb 4.8 rwd 160k
4l60e with shift kit corvette 2nd servo+
(Want 4l80)
On3 turbo kit 78mm turbo
320lph pump (on3 heard bad things)
52#injectors (on3)
2 bar map
99 ls1 fans
Nelson jumper harness
Hp tuners pro
Ballenger afr500v2
production grade o2
Ngk plugs with temp range 6
Plug wires
Tons of heat wrap and tape
Vacuum distribution block
I'm sure I'm forgetting tons of stuff.

Lmk what u think. Give me some heads up pointer would be nice. I've never owned a gm or a pickup so this is all new to me. I was an import guy for a long time and still am but just wanted to take another direction learn some new things. And make actual power without spending a million dollars lol
Old 07-19-2016 | 02:18 PM
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I'm not sure what injectors they give because they might be cheap and I'm not sure 52's will be enough depending on power goal.

I would look into some 60lb's from like deatschwerks.

2000-06 : 60lb Fuel Injectors | DeatschWerks
Old 07-19-2016 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by FFDP
I'm not sure what injectors they give because they might be cheap and I'm not sure 52's will be enough depending on power goal.

I would look into some 60lb's from like deatschwerks.

2000-06 : 60lb Fuel Injectors | DeatschWerks
OK I will look into that. I'm only going to be running 6-7 psi. Power goal is 500 crank.
Old 07-19-2016 | 02:44 PM
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If that's all you want, you could just use the smaller 70mm turbo and save yourself some money.
Old 07-19-2016 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by FFDP
If that's all you want, you could just use the smaller 70mm turbo and save yourself some money.
I purchased the larger turbo with plans to learn the new platform with this truck first and swap to something nicer. I'm from upstate ny and the truck is 13 years old so it has some rust. Most likely going to go with a 6.0 bottom end and gen x 205 heads. On the next build when I feel comfortable with the setuo.
Old 07-19-2016 | 08:18 PM
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Going to be a fun build. Check out my build thread when you have a second. Going down the same path you are more or less. I stuck with the 70mm to start though.

When your'e ready to start your 4l80 swap, check out Denny's Driveshafts. They are New York... have no idea if they are anywhere close to you, but worth a phone call.
Old 07-20-2016 | 11:09 AM
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No need for a driveshaft. I just did a 80e swap in my rcsb, stock steel driveshaft and just a th400 slip yoke cut down 3/4". I definitely suggest the 80e swap, it really isn't hard at all
Old 07-20-2016 | 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by NoorJ
No need for a driveshaft. I just did a 80e swap in my rcsb, stock steel driveshaft and just a th400 slip yoke cut down 3/4". I definitely suggest the 80e swap, it really isn't hard at all
You are providing a specific answer for a general topic that has way too many variables. This is where the "you can't believe everything you read on the internet" mantra comes from.

My shaft had to be shortened ~1.75" and if you'd cut my slip yoke down 3/4" it would have been into the o-ring race and leaked like a sieve. Also, my OEM shaft was tapered, so it became easier and more cost effective real quick just to build a quality custom unit. Not all 4l80's have an o-ring, but mine did and it's definitely something the op needs to be aware of and look for as he's doing the swap.

Not saying yours didn't work out the way you say it did at all either or trying to start a flame war NoorJ. Just pointing out the fact that there's a few things to keep in mind.
Old 07-21-2016 | 04:24 PM
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I have a set of 60# injectors sitting around. If you are interested in them shoot me a PM.
Old 07-24-2016 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by slvrram
You are providing a specific answer for a general topic that has way too many variables. This is where the "you can't believe everything you read on the internet" mantra comes from.

My shaft had to be shortened ~1.75" and if you'd cut my slip yoke down 3/4" it would have been into the o-ring race and leaked like a sieve. Also, my OEM shaft was tapered, so it became easier and more cost effective real quick just to build a quality custom unit. Not all 4l80's have an o-ring, but mine did and it's definitely something the op needs to be aware of and look for as he's doing the swap.

Not saying yours didn't work out the way you say it did at all either or trying to start a flame war NoorJ. Just pointing out the fact that there's a few things to keep in mind.
Valid point, I guess it really depends on getting the right tailshaft housing and slip yoke to make it easy. Either way just trying to make the point that I thought the 80e swap would be more difficult, but after doing it in a casual weekend I wish I hadn't put it off for so long



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