Pics of who's running kb racing turbo kit
03-22-2013 | 02:44 PM
#81
New guy here.
I just got my kit (no intercooler) from Kyle and was wondering a few things.
This is my first jump into modifying anything since 1978.
2010 Silverado 4.8
So, I completely understand the turbo concept and function. But could use some info on things like.
Where's the best place to pick up oil and return it?
There is a Oil Port Boss above the oil filter. Drill and tap that 1/8"-28 and put a adapter in it to -4 for you oil feed. Return can go to the front cover or oil pan. which ever you want.
What breather modifications/changes are made?
What are you calling a Breather?
Tips & tricks.
O2 sensors. Do you eliminate the rear set?
Yes
My tuner (Blackbear) will do whatever is needed to the PCM.
I have a turbo blanket and wrap. Should I wrap the hot pipe from the left bank to the right manifold?
yes, wrap all the hot side.
For now I'm going to use the stock air box with a K&N drop in.
im using the stock airbox and it works great for low boost/towing
I could use a couple pictures (of the smaller details) and I will take many while installing.
Thanks
I just got my kit (no intercooler) from Kyle and was wondering a few things.
This is my first jump into modifying anything since 1978.
2010 Silverado 4.8
So, I completely understand the turbo concept and function. But could use some info on things like.
Where's the best place to pick up oil and return it?
There is a Oil Port Boss above the oil filter. Drill and tap that 1/8"-28 and put a adapter in it to -4 for you oil feed. Return can go to the front cover or oil pan. which ever you want.
What breather modifications/changes are made?
What are you calling a Breather?
Tips & tricks.
O2 sensors. Do you eliminate the rear set?
Yes
My tuner (Blackbear) will do whatever is needed to the PCM.
I have a turbo blanket and wrap. Should I wrap the hot pipe from the left bank to the right manifold?
yes, wrap all the hot side.
For now I'm going to use the stock air box with a K&N drop in.
im using the stock airbox and it works great for low boost/towing
I could use a couple pictures (of the smaller details) and I will take many while installing.
Thanks
There ya go
03-22-2013 | 03:43 PM
#83
03-22-2013 | 05:52 PM
#86
03-23-2013 | 04:56 PM
#87
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
From: SW PA
OK, I see the bungs for O2 sensors on the crossover pipe and manifold.
What is the additional bung on the downpipe for?
Where does the extra spring shipped with the wastegate go?
How do you adjust the wastegate?
Is the extra spring shipped with the bypass a different spring rate?
Sorry if the questions seem simple to you but I want to make sure I understand everything.
What is the additional bung on the downpipe for?
Where does the extra spring shipped with the wastegate go?
How do you adjust the wastegate?
Is the extra spring shipped with the bypass a different spring rate?
Sorry if the questions seem simple to you but I want to make sure I understand everything.
03-23-2013 | 05:04 PM
#88
The bung in the downpipe is for a wideband o2 sensor.
Extra spring for the wideband is probably a stiffer spring. If it's a JGS wastegate, I believe the spring that comes in the wastegate is the light spring meaning lowest boost level.
As for the oil feed, I'm using the WJMark billet adapter. Can be had on ebay for about $20 shipped. Oil return is on the passenger side of the oil pan under the starter area. I didn't like the idea of returning to the front of the pan, too close to the balancer and AC stuff.
Extra spring for the wideband is probably a stiffer spring. If it's a JGS wastegate, I believe the spring that comes in the wastegate is the light spring meaning lowest boost level.
As for the oil feed, I'm using the WJMark billet adapter. Can be had on ebay for about $20 shipped. Oil return is on the passenger side of the oil pan under the starter area. I didn't like the idea of returning to the front of the pan, too close to the balancer and AC stuff.
03-23-2013 | 05:30 PM
#89
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
From: SW PA
The bung in the downpipe is for a wideband o2 sensor
Now, I understand that there are four sensors, two pre-cat and two post.
Looking at the sensor parts online, they are a four wire sensor. Isn't that (four wire) a wideband sensor?
How would I tell the computer to look for a third sensor (the wideband bung in the downpipe) or do I plug that hole?
I was going to have my tuner eliminate the two rear O2 sensors.
Thanks
I'm used to dealing with turbos and air on larger engines (3,000 to 9,400 CID).
They are bigger but simple. One wideband O2 per bank for AFR control, that's it.
03-23-2013 | 06:05 PM
#90
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,266
Likes: 393
From: Huntsville, AL
For the JGS gate, the larger OD spring is the softest and gives the least boost...the smaller one is stiffer and gives more boost....for more boost use both springs with the little one inside the larger one.
For O2s, you use the front o2s in the exhaust ports and you delete the rear o2s from the computer (any tuner can do this). The wideband is not through the pcm, it is a standalone wideband controller. FWIW, all widebands are at least 5 wires; narrowbands are 4 wires. I personally like the NGK because the sensor and analog output are really good (but the display sucks).
For O2s, you use the front o2s in the exhaust ports and you delete the rear o2s from the computer (any tuner can do this). The wideband is not through the pcm, it is a standalone wideband controller. FWIW, all widebands are at least 5 wires; narrowbands are 4 wires. I personally like the NGK because the sensor and analog output are really good (but the display sucks).