Procharger/LQ9 boost/pulley question
#11
I guess I'm just not getting the whole idea of running a smaller pulley and restricting it's capabilities...
>spinning it faster but restricting it's air intake...this doesn't seem to make any sense to me at all...
>spinnning it faster but bleeding off the boost at a certain pressure...
I guess maybe this may bring boost on quicker, up to a set threshold...is that what you are wanting to accomplish? It would definitely have to be pre-MAF though...and I don't know if it would make a difference whether it was pre- or post- bypass valve...
>spinning it faster but restricting it's air intake...this doesn't seem to make any sense to me at all...
>spinnning it faster but bleeding off the boost at a certain pressure...
I guess maybe this may bring boost on quicker, up to a set threshold...is that what you are wanting to accomplish? It would definitely have to be pre-MAF though...and I don't know if it would make a difference whether it was pre- or post- bypass valve...
#12
Superado...
I 'm pretty sure the restricted inlet limits the max amount of air the head unit can draw. If you decrease the pulley size, it will add boost down low and build up boost at a much higher rate. The blower will max out the the inlet before it reaches max boost and it should really slow down the rate it adds boost at the top of the RPM range. It shouldn't back up the blower with boost but I imagine it will suck just as much horsepower as it would unrestricted because of it will be working harder to bulid boost. Sounds like I will have to play around with the diameter of the restrictor. I'll start small and keep increasing the diameter to see where it takes me.
I'm also going to try referencing boost to the air vent on the Bypass valve. I ordered a 3 way 12v solenoid that I will tee off of the vacuum line running to the bypass. When the solinoid is normally closed, the exhaust port on the solenoid will let the bypass vent breathe like normal. I'll add a boost switch that will energize the solenoid at say 8lbs, closing the exhaust port and introducing boost to the bypass vent. This should equalize with the boost coming from the vacuum line to the top of the bypass diaphram negating the referenced boost. Then the only thing keeping the bypass closed is the small spring inside it. It should start openning gradually, bleeding off boost (pre-MAF of course). The spring has some adjustment on it but I may have to install a lighter one. It sounds like it will work but I'm sure it will take some trial and error (not too much error I hope!).
I thought about trying to use a wastegate installed pre-MAF but I don't know enough about them to understand if it would work.
Rick
I 'm pretty sure the restricted inlet limits the max amount of air the head unit can draw. If you decrease the pulley size, it will add boost down low and build up boost at a much higher rate. The blower will max out the the inlet before it reaches max boost and it should really slow down the rate it adds boost at the top of the RPM range. It shouldn't back up the blower with boost but I imagine it will suck just as much horsepower as it would unrestricted because of it will be working harder to bulid boost. Sounds like I will have to play around with the diameter of the restrictor. I'll start small and keep increasing the diameter to see where it takes me.
I'm also going to try referencing boost to the air vent on the Bypass valve. I ordered a 3 way 12v solenoid that I will tee off of the vacuum line running to the bypass. When the solinoid is normally closed, the exhaust port on the solenoid will let the bypass vent breathe like normal. I'll add a boost switch that will energize the solenoid at say 8lbs, closing the exhaust port and introducing boost to the bypass vent. This should equalize with the boost coming from the vacuum line to the top of the bypass diaphram negating the referenced boost. Then the only thing keeping the bypass closed is the small spring inside it. It should start openning gradually, bleeding off boost (pre-MAF of course). The spring has some adjustment on it but I may have to install a lighter one. It sounds like it will work but I'm sure it will take some trial and error (not too much error I hope!).
I thought about trying to use a wastegate installed pre-MAF but I don't know enough about them to understand if it would work.
Rick
#14
Yeah I know... I tried a TBTC but didn't like how it felt in such a heavy truck. If it wasn't such a PITA to install, I'd just go a pick up a Yank TT2600. It eats up an entire day to remove/replace. Eventually I will have to. I'm hoping I can play around enough with the Procharger to bring up the low end torque.
I have an old NOS kit from my Drag racing days ('73 TA 455 11.03@131) that I may slap on it at down the road. I could pull a Turbo trick and have it come on at WOT but shut off at say 3lbs of boost to pump the low end up. The bottle lasts for days because so little NO2 is used.
Rick
I have an old NOS kit from my Drag racing days ('73 TA 455 11.03@131) that I may slap on it at down the road. I could pull a Turbo trick and have it come on at WOT but shut off at say 3lbs of boost to pump the low end up. The bottle lasts for days because so little NO2 is used.
Rick
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