Questions on PCV removal, and boost reference source.
05-28-2006, 04:18 PM
#1
Questions, PCV removal, and boost reference source.
I finally did something more permanent for my oil puking issues, still homemade but much better. I will post pics later.
I also got rid of my PCV valve, and am using the old pcv vent to malifold nipple for my hobbs switch for my STS return pump boost signal location.
The PCV line now tee's together with the valve cover vent hose from the passenger side valve cover, then into a series of oil puke cans to remove oil and condensation before returning to the nipple on the TB.
I tried just letting it vent to a breather filter after the three cans, but it smoked and smelled so much I had to plumb it back into the TB.
I also removed my fill tube and put the cap with the oil return line attached right on the valve cover. It fits a lot tight now, thank god!
Question is do you think I will have any problems with this set up?
If so what may arise?
On another note, it seems like I am still getting oil coming from the dipstick somehow!
I even put a rubber seal under the pull on the end of the dipstick inside the small counter-bore there.
I wish I had a damm camera under the hood to see exactly where this small amount of oil is coming out of. I'm getting real tired if smelling oil and cleaning off residue and worrying an about an oil fire.
I also got rid of my PCV valve, and am using the old pcv vent to malifold nipple for my hobbs switch for my STS return pump boost signal location.
The PCV line now tee's together with the valve cover vent hose from the passenger side valve cover, then into a series of oil puke cans to remove oil and condensation before returning to the nipple on the TB.
I tried just letting it vent to a breather filter after the three cans, but it smoked and smelled so much I had to plumb it back into the TB.
I also removed my fill tube and put the cap with the oil return line attached right on the valve cover. It fits a lot tight now, thank god!
Question is do you think I will have any problems with this set up?
If so what may arise?
On another note, it seems like I am still getting oil coming from the dipstick somehow!
I even put a rubber seal under the pull on the end of the dipstick inside the small counter-bore there.
I wish I had a damm camera under the hood to see exactly where this small amount of oil is coming out of. I'm getting real tired if smelling oil and cleaning off residue and worrying an about an oil fire.
Last edited by TG02Z71; 05-28-2006 at 05:52 PM.
05-28-2006, 04:47 PM
#2
Some pics of the set-up. The 1st pics is of the old PCV line now going over the intake manifold to the passenger side where it Tee's into the line that comes off the passenger side valve cover then into the catch cans to remove the oil before going back into the TB.
To let the drivers side valve cover breath more easily, I opened up the hole to about 3/8" on the old orifice type PCV valve.
This pic also shows the hobbs switch getting it boost reference to activate the pump from the old PCV nipple.
The 2nd pic shows the path of the vented crancase pressure gong into the cans and the path back to the TB.
The can's input line goes into a tube that extends down into the can about 3/8" from the bottom to deposit the oil. The cans are filled with copper char-boy, a metal scrubber pad that you can get at any shopping market.
This is supposed to give the oil mist something to cling to so it just doesn't just blow back out the output hole to the next can.
Each can is the same except for the last, which has a breather filter on the output line going back to the TB in an attempt to keep crud from going out the last can.
My objective is to have a relatively maintainable system that will keep most of the oil out of my intake, and also keep my boost out of my crankcase.
I know its not pretty, but that doesn't matter to me.
Set up make sense??
To let the drivers side valve cover breath more easily, I opened up the hole to about 3/8" on the old orifice type PCV valve.
This pic also shows the hobbs switch getting it boost reference to activate the pump from the old PCV nipple.
The 2nd pic shows the path of the vented crancase pressure gong into the cans and the path back to the TB.
The can's input line goes into a tube that extends down into the can about 3/8" from the bottom to deposit the oil. The cans are filled with copper char-boy, a metal scrubber pad that you can get at any shopping market.
This is supposed to give the oil mist something to cling to so it just doesn't just blow back out the output hole to the next can.
Each can is the same except for the last, which has a breather filter on the output line going back to the TB in an attempt to keep crud from going out the last can.
My objective is to have a relatively maintainable system that will keep most of the oil out of my intake, and also keep my boost out of my crankcase.
I know its not pretty, but that doesn't matter to me.
Set up make sense??
Last edited by TG02Z71; 05-29-2006 at 05:50 AM.
05-28-2006, 10:19 PM
#3
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Remember that the nipple at the TB will never be under any vacuum. The most vacuum it might see is .1 or .2 psi. The line from the TB will almost always be moving air into your catch cans and not sucking air out of them. The TB line will also see as much boost as your intake manifold and will be pressurizing your catch cans and your sump. You may as well cap it off and let your catch cans vent to the atmosphere. At least then you will not be pressurizing your sump with boost from the intake. With the breather filter on the last can you are also venting air metered by the MAF to the atmosphere which will make your mixture richer than The PCM sees. This will also reduce your boost a little.
05-29-2006, 05:37 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Mort
Remember that the nipple at the TB will never be under any vacuum. The most vacuum it might see is .1 or .2 psi. The line from the TB will almost always be moving air into your catch cans and not sucking air out of them. The TB line will also see as much boost as your intake manifold and will be pressurizing your catch cans and your sump. You may as well cap it off and let your catch cans vent to the atmosphere. At least then you will not be pressurizing your sump with boost from the intake. With the breather filter on the last can you are also venting air metered by the MAF to the atmosphere which will make your mixture richer than The PCM sees. This will also reduce your boost a little.
So the TB never sees even one PSI of vacumn? But it sees full boost?
Maybe this is one of the fundamental problems with the set up, and one of the reasons the switch doesn't always turn on, causing oil to build up at the turbo and end upout your tail pipe or in your intake tube? I wonder how consistent the boost reading the Hobbs switch gets then?
If I go from the final output line of the catch can back into where the PCV use to breath to it will see even more boost. I really want to burn off the fumes to keep the smell and the smoke down. Maybe I can put a check valve in the final line and plumb it back to where the PCV vented to originally.
I had only two cans the first day I hooked all this up and the final vented to atmosphere, it smoked like hell and smelled like burning oil!
You could see the smoke coming out of my grille at stop signs!
Wish I could track down the source of my crankcase getting boost into it, this is really the root problem. But how to burn the contained fumes without boosing the catch cans?
Wonder what other issues I may have that are causing the crankcase to receive boost? Maybe a cracked pistion would cause that? If so you think my engine would have failed in some more easily seen way by now.
Back to the PCV line location I guess.
Thanks for the feedback Mort.
Last edited by TG02Z71; 05-29-2006 at 05:45 AM.
05-29-2006, 09:39 AM
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So the TB never sees even one PSI of vacumn? But it sees full boost?
I put my boost gauge on the TB nipple and that is what I saw. No vacuum to speak of but full boost. The line draws from in front of the throttle blade so it makes sense.
Maybe this is one of the fundamental problems with the set up, and one of the reasons the switch doesn't always turn on, causing oil to build up at the turbo and end upout your tail pipe or in your intake tube? I wonder how consistent the boost reading the Hobbs switch gets then?
The TB connection senses boost before the intake manifold so the Hoobs switch should always recieve an accurate signal. If the parts are connected properly and are in good working order the PCV vent system should work reliably.
If I go from the final output line of the catch can back into where the PCV use to breath to it will see even more boost. I really want to burn off the fumes to keep the smell and the smoke down. Maybe I can put a check valve in the final line and plumb it back to where the PCV vented to originally.
I had only two cans the first day I hooked all this up and the final vented to atmosphere, it smoked like hell and smelled like burning oil!
You could see the smoke coming out of my grille at stop signs!
Wish I could track down the source of my crankcase getting boost into it, this is really the root problem. But how to burn the contained fumes without boosing the catch cans?
Wonder what other issues I may have that are causing the crankcase to receive boost? Maybe a cracked pistion would cause that? If so you think my engine would have failed in some more easily seen way by now.
Back to the PCV line location I guess.
Thanks for the feedback Mort.
If you plug off both the line to the PCV valve and the line at the TB and you are still getting a lot of crankcase pressure and blowing out stinky oil smoke then you must have blow-by the pistons or head gasket into the crankcase. With both of those lines blocked off I don't think there is any other way to be getting pressure into the crankcase than from the cylinder(s) under compression.
It may be time for a compression test. If any cylinders vary by more than 10% or all cylinder pressures are low then do a leakdown test. The leakdown test will allow you to trace the source of the leak or at least narrow it down a bit. Maybe you have worn compression rings.
I put my boost gauge on the TB nipple and that is what I saw. No vacuum to speak of but full boost. The line draws from in front of the throttle blade so it makes sense.
Maybe this is one of the fundamental problems with the set up, and one of the reasons the switch doesn't always turn on, causing oil to build up at the turbo and end upout your tail pipe or in your intake tube? I wonder how consistent the boost reading the Hobbs switch gets then?
The TB connection senses boost before the intake manifold so the Hoobs switch should always recieve an accurate signal. If the parts are connected properly and are in good working order the PCV vent system should work reliably.
If I go from the final output line of the catch can back into where the PCV use to breath to it will see even more boost. I really want to burn off the fumes to keep the smell and the smoke down. Maybe I can put a check valve in the final line and plumb it back to where the PCV vented to originally.
I had only two cans the first day I hooked all this up and the final vented to atmosphere, it smoked like hell and smelled like burning oil!
You could see the smoke coming out of my grille at stop signs!
Wish I could track down the source of my crankcase getting boost into it, this is really the root problem. But how to burn the contained fumes without boosing the catch cans?
Wonder what other issues I may have that are causing the crankcase to receive boost? Maybe a cracked pistion would cause that? If so you think my engine would have failed in some more easily seen way by now.
Back to the PCV line location I guess.
Thanks for the feedback Mort.
If you plug off both the line to the PCV valve and the line at the TB and you are still getting a lot of crankcase pressure and blowing out stinky oil smoke then you must have blow-by the pistons or head gasket into the crankcase. With both of those lines blocked off I don't think there is any other way to be getting pressure into the crankcase than from the cylinder(s) under compression.
It may be time for a compression test. If any cylinders vary by more than 10% or all cylinder pressures are low then do a leakdown test. The leakdown test will allow you to trace the source of the leak or at least narrow it down a bit. Maybe you have worn compression rings.
05-29-2006, 09:57 AM
#7
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From the various posts i have read on this, the lines from the valve covers run into the catch can with a one way check valve, the line runs out of the catch can to the turbo intake side, the suction from the turbo sucks the vapors into the engine to be burned, the pcv hole in the manifold is under pressure while in boost,so it has to be pluged. this is the setup i'm going with, i will know how it works in a while!! THANKS
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05-29-2006, 10:02 AM
#8
Doesn't sound too promising really. 
I went to get my tires mounted this morning and drove about 60 miles round trip, when I got there, the cover on the first can had popped off and the JB weld around the bung had cracked.
I guess I am seeing too much pressure build up in there and need to put the PCV on the return line going to the TB which I will be putting back to the original PCV connection area. The hobbs switch will be going back to the TB then. Hopefully the PCV valve will keep boost oput of my cans.
Just for reference I was driving like a puss the whole way there, low boost only, and never got above 4psi.
I'll report back.
I went to get my tires mounted this morning and drove about 60 miles round trip, when I got there, the cover on the first can had popped off and the JB weld around the bung had cracked.
I guess I am seeing too much pressure build up in there and need to put the PCV on the return line going to the TB which I will be putting back to the original PCV connection area. The hobbs switch will be going back to the TB then. Hopefully the PCV valve will keep boost oput of my cans.
Just for reference I was driving like a puss the whole way there, low boost only, and never got above 4psi.
I'll report back.
05-29-2006, 10:03 AM
#9
Originally Posted by sparkwirez06
From the various posts i have read on this, the lines from the valve covers run into the catch can with a one way check valve, the line runs out of the catch can to the turbo intake side, the suction from the turbo sucks the vapors into the engine to be burned, the pcv hole in the manifold is under pressure while in boost,so it has to be pluged. this is the setup i'm going with, i will know how it works in a while!! THANKS
very interested to hear your results!! Please report back!!
Also, would this not fill you intake piping with oil residue??
I am trying to avoid thatas well.
Last edited by TG02Z71; 05-29-2006 at 07:59 PM.
05-29-2006, 03:45 PM
#10
Found another source of the oil leakage.
The dipstick's yellow handle pull has a roll pin holding it on. Oil comes up from the fill tube, goes into the handle and seeps out of the roll pin.
I sprayed it all down with brake cleaner, blew it our with compressed air and JB welded the roll pin area up good.
Put a new o-ring on it too, and put some smaller ones on the blade to keep oil out of the handle in the first place.
Thinking I should buy stock in JB weld since I've used about 6 tubes of the stuff on the truck since the turbo install.
Also re-did the routing of all the vent lines as I stated above.
I also put my PCV valve on after the catch cans so pressure cannot go back into the cans there, only to the input line to the first can.
I'll post some more pics later.
The dipstick's yellow handle pull has a roll pin holding it on. Oil comes up from the fill tube, goes into the handle and seeps out of the roll pin.
I sprayed it all down with brake cleaner, blew it our with compressed air and JB welded the roll pin area up good.
Put a new o-ring on it too, and put some smaller ones on the blade to keep oil out of the handle in the first place.
Thinking I should buy stock in JB weld since I've used about 6 tubes of the stuff on the truck since the turbo install.
Also re-did the routing of all the vent lines as I stated above.
I also put my PCV valve on after the catch cans so pressure cannot go back into the cans there, only to the input line to the first can.
I'll post some more pics later.