BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Can someone explain or provide a link on how to change the radix pulley. I searched but didnt find anything.

My guess is I need a strap wrench to get the pulley bolt off.
Will I need a pulley puller to get it off the snout?
Can I reuse the bolt?
What is the torque spec?

Thanks

GMC_DUDE

Here is how I did mine.

Tools needed:

A socket wrench that fits the nut on the snout (don't remember the size offhand).

A 2 ft. length of pipe that fits over the socket wrench handle. (Pipe #1)

Another 2 ft. length of pipe similar to above but does not have to fit the wrench handle. (Pipe #2)

A 3-jaw puller which will fit around the pulley (get a good one).

A 3 ft. or so length of tough cord or rope.

Some masking or duct tape.

A hammer (optional) .


Procedure:

1: Remove the belt if not already removed.

2: Tie one end of the cord around Pipe 2 and secure it firmly. Make sure the knot or whatever will not come undone when the cord is under stress.

3: Tape the other end of the cord to the gripping surface of the pulley and carefully wind the cord around the pulley such that turning the pulley counterclockwise (i.e. removing the nut) will tighten the cord.

4: Put the socket wrench on the pulley nut and put Pipe 1 over the handle.

5: With Pipe 1 in your left hand and Pipe 2 in your right, break the nut loose and remove it (you are essentially using the cord and Pipe 2 as a poor man's strap wrench to hold the pulley).

6: Once the nut is off, remove the cord and tape and remove the pulley using the 3-jaw puller. Depending on the pulley size you may have to remove the snout support bracket.

7: Look at the new pulley and determine which side faces front. It will sometimes, but not always, have the diameter stamped on the front. Compare to the old pulley if you have to. Be sure to get this right as they only go on one way (don't ask me how I know ).

8: Place the new pulley on the shaft (it will only go on a little ways) and look behind it to line up the key on the shaft with the corresponding groove in the pulley.

9: If the pulley hole is large enough, the threads may be sticking out and you can go ahead and start threading the nut on. If not, place the wrench socket over the end and GENTLY tap it with a hammer to push the pulley back. Don't hit hard, as the internals of the Radix are plastic and can break. If it doesn't go, check to be sure you have the key aligned. This can take a few tries until you get the hang of it.

10: Once you can get the nut on, tighten it down as far as you can, and then wind the cord and Pipe 2 around the pulley as before, but in the opposite direction, and use it to hold the pulley as you firmly tighten the nut. I just tightened it as tight as I could without Pipe 1, which would be about 40 ft-lb. or so.

A few notes:

Some will recommend heating the new pulley with a blowtorch before putting it on. I tried it and it didn't help any.

You might be tempted to tie the cord to the alternator or some other fixed point instead of Pipe 2. Please don't do this. It will create a side-loading which could bend the shaft and/or damage the bearings. Even a sub-millimeter bend would cause major vibrations at the speed the shaft turns.

Also don't use any air or impact wrenches, as they can also damage the internals.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Yes you can re-use the nut. It's sort of a ny-lock type that will still grip tightly.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Thanks man!

We actually did it yesterday at the shop. We called Magnasun for the torque specs and incidentals.

Appreciat the writeup

GMC_DUDE

DANG!!! A day late and 0.8423578 Euro's short.