Relocation of MAF
07-11-2006, 06:58 PM
#1
Relocation of MAF
To recap, when I saw how much boost I gained by taking the duct tape off of that silly little add-on Whipple filter, I decided to move the MAF to the pressure side. If the MAF was a restriction on the inlet (stock) side, I should see even more improvement. I expect 300 additional WHP. I'll probably have to run some wires to it first, though. Any naysayers?
07-11-2006, 09:12 PM
#3
Originally Posted by Mikegyver
To recap, when I saw how much boost I gained by taking the duct tape off of that silly little add-on Whipple filter, I decided to move the MAF to the pressure side.
Nice reducers by the way, looks nice and clean. You need me to send you a few t-bolts for those MAF couplings or what?
07-11-2006, 09:43 PM
#4
With my Whipple kit came a K&N-type filter, about 3" in diameter, that you drill a hole and install an adapter plate into the stock airbox for added airflow (it goes after the main air filter). I covered it with duct tape last fall, thinking it might help lower IAT. It didn't, and it didn't affect the way it ran until I installed the I/C.
Do you think that I'll blow those couplings off?
Do you think that I'll blow those couplings off?
07-12-2006, 08:01 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Mikegyver
With my Whipple kit came a K&N-type filter, about 3" in diameter, that you drill a hole and install an adapter plate into the stock airbox for added airflow (it goes after the main air filter). I covered it with duct tape last fall, thinking it might help lower IAT. It didn't, and it didn't affect the way it ran until I installed the I/C.
Do you think that I'll blow those couplings off?
Do you think that I'll blow those couplings off?
Nah, im just giving you a hard time. I doubt you will blow them off, its just that the T-bolts llok alot nicer than the screw type clamps.
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Ya whats the word, you have us on our toes here.
07-12-2006, 09:39 PM
#9
When I open the MikeGyver factory, and start making MikeGyver trucks, all of the wiring is going to be in conduit or raceways. That way, when you need to repair or move a wire, you can just open the raceway and lift the old wire out. At worst, in conduit, you would have to fish the new wire through. Not take the whole damn harness apart!
There, I feel better.
Well, I ran the wires to the MAF tonight. That's about all. It runs, idles, revs, all the things engines do. I didn't log the MAF.
I have to join the intake pipe to the air filter, where the MAF used to be. I'm going to look for a length of 4" radiator hose tomorrow, or maybe the Truck parts place will have a charge air pipe coupler for 4". I don't want to drive it open like it is, that will defeat the purpose of this test.
Sorry, we won't know anything until tomorrow at the soonest.
There, I feel better.
Well, I ran the wires to the MAF tonight. That's about all. It runs, idles, revs, all the things engines do. I didn't log the MAF.
I have to join the intake pipe to the air filter, where the MAF used to be. I'm going to look for a length of 4" radiator hose tomorrow, or maybe the Truck parts place will have a charge air pipe coupler for 4". I don't want to drive it open like it is, that will defeat the purpose of this test.
Sorry, we won't know anything until tomorrow at the soonest.
07-12-2006, 10:05 PM
#10
Originally Posted by Mikegyver
I'm going to look for a length of 4" radiator hose tomorrow, or maybe the Truck parts place will have a charge air pipe coupler for 4".
Thats a big *** hose.
You could always use a DWV (drain waste vent) coupling from HD or Lowes. Should be fine for the intake side.