Removed solenoid on STS kit, now blowing oil all over!
#31
I would venture to say if you have the orifice type PCV with a boosted engine you need to go to the check valve type before upping your boost.
Since I don't have to do emmisions here, I am thinking about eliminating the PCV all together and just letting it vent to a puke tank. Keep all the oil **** out of my intake and do the sea-foam again.
It must look like hell in there.
Any thoughts on that anyone?
Since I don't have to do emmisions here, I am thinking about eliminating the PCV all together and just letting it vent to a puke tank. Keep all the oil **** out of my intake and do the sea-foam again.
It must look like hell in there.
Any thoughts on that anyone?
#32
Originally Posted by TG02Z71
I would venture to say if you have the orifice type PCV with a boosted engine you need to go to the check valve type before upping your boost.
#33
Originally Posted by vanillagorilla
That's what I'm saying!
Who would have thought a .08" diameter hole could pressurize your crackcase so fast and so efficiently that it would push out your fill cap,
fill tube, dipstick, and coat your engine like it was made to do so?!?!?
Thank you sir for your help.
Hopefully no-one ever does this again after reading or seeing this post.
Oh ya, nice beaver dude!!
#34
The only thing about running with the STS solenoid valve removed is that now you are sucking unmetered air through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. This is like a vacuum leak. If you are finding that your idle is rough then you should hook up the STS solenoid again or maybe vent the driver's side PCV to the atmosphere and plug the nipple on the intake manifold. It may also make you run a little lean at low throttle openings when the intake manifold is still drawing a relatively high vacuum and pulling crankcase air into the intake manifold.
I guess I should have read to the end of these posts before I posted this.
I guess I should have read to the end of these posts before I posted this.
Last edited by Mort; 04-27-2006 at 11:22 AM.
#35
Originally Posted by Mort
The only thing about running with the STS solenoid valve removed is that now you are sucking unmetered air through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. This is like a vacuum leak. If you are finding that your idle is rough then you should hook up the STS solenoid again or maybe vent the driver's side PCV to the atmosphere and plug the nipple on the intake manifold. It may also make you run a little lean at low throttle openings when the intake manifold is still drawing a relatively high vacuum and pulling crankcase air into the intake manifold.
I guess I should have read to the end of these posts before I posted this.
I guess I should have read to the end of these posts before I posted this.
The check valve is working properly, no noise or whistling like some had told me they had.
Idles great and takes off like a rocket when you stab the throttle!
So far so good, i am sooo releived man.
#38
I have no progress (f-ed up work hours) on my oil catch can system yet but wanted to report back more findings.
My system works great and is not blowing oil all over but still spits a little out now and then. I think the small venting orifices cannot keep up with the pressure being built up in my crankcase.
This mother must me sealed really tight from the factory because even though I have my passenger side valve cover vented to a catch can now it still builds enough pressure in the cases to force someout from under my oil fill cap even though it is safey wired down TIGHT!
I'm going to remove my PVC system completly and vent both lones into a catch can will large enough diameter line to let this thing vent and breath,
Need to make a couple of peices but I should have something done by next week for testing.
Wanted to Seafoam my intake but I know with the way it is now I will have it all full of oil in no time. I think all this oil is contributing to a rough idle too.
I am so freaking sick of cleaning oil off my electrics and engine compartment. If my next step don't work I may be tapping my pan for the oil return pump.
Any other suggestions anyone??
My system works great and is not blowing oil all over but still spits a little out now and then. I think the small venting orifices cannot keep up with the pressure being built up in my crankcase.
This mother must me sealed really tight from the factory because even though I have my passenger side valve cover vented to a catch can now it still builds enough pressure in the cases to force someout from under my oil fill cap even though it is safey wired down TIGHT!
I'm going to remove my PVC system completly and vent both lones into a catch can will large enough diameter line to let this thing vent and breath,
Need to make a couple of peices but I should have something done by next week for testing.
Wanted to Seafoam my intake but I know with the way it is now I will have it all full of oil in no time. I think all this oil is contributing to a rough idle too.
I am so freaking sick of cleaning oil off my electrics and engine compartment. If my next step don't work I may be tapping my pan for the oil return pump.
Any other suggestions anyone??
#39
double check your MAF and make sure there is no oil residue on it, it may need a cleaning with some good contact cleaner or berryman chemtool spray. Thast might be the cause of your rough idle.
#40
Originally Posted by TIM Z
double check your MAF and make sure there is no oil residue on it, it may need a cleaning with some good contact cleaner or berryman chemtool spray. Thast might be the cause of your rough idle.
I was doing that because of water I've been somehow getting into the system and the MAF connection. I filled the MAF connector with dielectric grease and its been ok even with washing my engine down three times due to the OPEC incidents.
Thanks for the advice though. I am working on something for my air cleaner to relocate it up in the fenderwell right now, should have that done this weekend, then its on to fixing the oil issues.