Roush TVS 1900 New Install....No Boost
05-13-2011, 02:03 PM
#22
Staging Lane
One of the required mods to get this thing to work was to get a 2008 Silverado water pump. I picked the pump up at AutoZone and the f'n pulley came off of the water pump after about 5 miles of driving. They gave me another one a few days ago and the pulley fell off of that one too. I just ordered an OEM rig (for $25 more) and should get that tomorrow. Once I get the water pump issue resolved, back to the drawing board.
05-13-2011, 04:27 PM
#24
What elevation are you at? A 1900 on a 6l not gonna make a lot of boost anyway with a 3.3 pulley. If your at altitude, that's going to cut it even more...
If your boost is going up at higher RPM, that sounds more like your motor is using the air it's pumping down low, not slipping and then as the motor becomes less efficient in the higher RPM, the air is backing up making more boost. Usually if you have a belt slip issue, it makes more boost down low and then fads up top, not the other way around.
If your boost is going up at higher RPM, that sounds more like your motor is using the air it's pumping down low, not slipping and then as the motor becomes less efficient in the higher RPM, the air is backing up making more boost. Usually if you have a belt slip issue, it makes more boost down low and then fads up top, not the other way around.
05-15-2011, 12:09 AM
#25
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I got a REAL water pump from GM for $7 more than the POS at AutoZone and installed it yesterday, so that part of the deal is done. I drove about 30 miles today and didn't have any problems.
I wire tied the bypass valve closed this time (instead of simply unplugging the vacuum line). It woke the truck up big time.
Problem is, it's still only programmed for 2 lbs, so my bro is going to do some programming tomorrow.
I'm ordering a PLX Wideband Air/Fuel gauge and Boost gauge to keep an eye on everything. Not sure what the pressure is running with the bypass wire tied, so we will install a temporary boost gauge while programming tomorrow.
So, if the problem is with the bypass valve, what are my options? Is there a way to adjust it? Don't know why it is opening at boost with the vacuum line off of it.
BTW, Elevation is around 500 ft (Plano, TX)
I wire tied the bypass valve closed this time (instead of simply unplugging the vacuum line). It woke the truck up big time.
Problem is, it's still only programmed for 2 lbs, so my bro is going to do some programming tomorrow.I'm ordering a PLX Wideband Air/Fuel gauge and Boost gauge to keep an eye on everything. Not sure what the pressure is running with the bypass wire tied, so we will install a temporary boost gauge while programming tomorrow.
So, if the problem is with the bypass valve, what are my options? Is there a way to adjust it? Don't know why it is opening at boost with the vacuum line off of it.
BTW, Elevation is around 500 ft (Plano, TX)
05-15-2011, 12:13 AM
#26
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05-15-2011, 08:35 AM
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there is a thread that has a place where you can buy a replacement diaphragm part of the valve. its maybe a stillen part? i forget i know mine was damaged in shipping and ill either fix or replace it
05-15-2011, 04:00 PM
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Got a temporary boost gauge installed and made some passes. First gear starting at around 3 and climbing to 5-6. Second and third both stay around 3 lbs still. This is with the bypass wire tied shut. I put a bunch of belt dressing on the belt which made it sticky as hell. Where to go now?
05-15-2011, 04:21 PM
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I appreciate the help.
My brother has a lot of experience with forced induction cars, but specializes in Corvettes. He put a Mityvac on the actuator and was able to hold it in place, proving the diaphragm was intact. We also verified for a second time (using a dental mirror) that the bypass was in the fully closed position.
More general info:
He also capped the throttle body and the vacuum ports and pressurized the inlet to verify there were no leaks.
In his opinion, based on the results of the testing, the problem is:
1. belt slip
2. Looking at the VE table, the blower speed increases with RPM while the engines pumping efficiency climbs, peaking at ~4400RPM after which the pumping efficiency decreases with continuing blower speed increases. The 6.0 displacement combined with the above facts may explain the rise in boost up top and lack of boost down low. It could obviously be a combination of these issues.
I certainly wish it were easier to get a smaller pulley on this system. Any of you guys running an overdrive balancer? Doesn't seem like much room between the stock 7.5" and the water pump, but I know there's a little. Wondering if the 8" Innovators West overdrive balancer is an option.
I would love to know the boost curves of others running a 6.0 with this system or even a Magnuson TVS1900 style system.
Thanks again!
More general info:
He also capped the throttle body and the vacuum ports and pressurized the inlet to verify there were no leaks.
In his opinion, based on the results of the testing, the problem is:
1. belt slip
2. Looking at the VE table, the blower speed increases with RPM while the engines pumping efficiency climbs, peaking at ~4400RPM after which the pumping efficiency decreases with continuing blower speed increases. The 6.0 displacement combined with the above facts may explain the rise in boost up top and lack of boost down low. It could obviously be a combination of these issues.
I certainly wish it were easier to get a smaller pulley on this system. Any of you guys running an overdrive balancer? Doesn't seem like much room between the stock 7.5" and the water pump, but I know there's a little. Wondering if the 8" Innovators West overdrive balancer is an option.
I would love to know the boost curves of others running a 6.0 with this system or even a Magnuson TVS1900 style system.
Thanks again!