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Snow performance kit install

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Old 12-27-2008, 07:50 PM
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Default Snow performance kit install

I got this pretty much new from SSpilot04

Pump install:
Choose location for pump. I put mine on the pasenger side behind the coolant resevoir. Remove the fender support. Useing a 13mm

There is a plate that attaches to the fire wall, fender and resevoir tank. You will need a 13mm and a 10mm deep socket or box wrench. remove plate and drill holes to attach the pump housing useing a 1/4 inch drill bit. (be sure to mount it too clear the hood coil spring so hood closes properly. learned the hard way)


Control box install:
Choose location I put mine on the fire wall close to the pump.

the box has holes for screws or you can use the 3M velcrow. I used the velcrow for easy removal to adjust settings. After mounting the box wire up the harness. The instructions have a diagram. I finally found a use for the mysterious plug dangling by the a/c canester. Its a 12v power source and ground for the control box. It is also a Key-on source.

While wiring the box i also grounded the pump and wired the pump to the harness. I was able to hide most the wiring in the stock lume.

Tapping the washer fluid tank:
The kit comes with a tap, drill per the instructions then use the tap. I removed the fluid tank. Because in my used kit a stock tank was included already tapped :thumbs:

To remove the tank you have to pull it out the wheel well. pita Remove battery and battery tray. use a 8mm, and 10mm.

Then remove the harness attached to the washer pump and the low fluid sensor. Remove the retaining bolts (10mm) and the plastic push retainers. I cut those out and bought new ones lol
tank will then drop right out.

When finished re install the tank ( the line to the windsheild wippers is brittle be easy)

Install meth pump lines and tap the intake tube:
Run the red lines from the pump to the tank. I ran mine along the fire wall and down. I held them in place with plastic clips attached to the fire wall

Then i ran the discharge red line under the radix j-tube to the nozzle area of my choice. My intake tube had a old nitrous nozzle so i screwed my meth nozzle into this.


Read your instructions on which nozzle fits your application.

Run the boost control line:
I bought a vacuum line tee that spliced into the existing boost guage. I then ran the lines along along the fire wall and plugged into the snow control box.

I ran everything in lume so it looked clean and stock. I used weather proof butt splices as well
(optional: from the wire that comes off the control box to the pump i spliced a12v led indicator into my cab. This lets me know that when the pump is running for safety sake.)



To test the pump dial the settings all the way down, then take some spare vacuum line and plug it into the control box. Blow into the line simulating boost. You will hear the pump kick on and see the fluid mist with the nozzle removed.



this is my first ever HOW TO so please some of you truck gurus if you think anything should be added or done better feel free.
Old 12-27-2008, 08:11 PM
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nice post! great use of pictures, very detailed!

how do you like it?
Old 12-27-2008, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by wastedrubber
nice post! great use of pictures, very detailed!

how do you like it?
i havent got it tuned for the meth yet but im sure i could squeeze 3-4 more degrees of timing and dyno results for radix trucks see 11+ rwhp per degree added

i also like it for the added safety tackling the iat heat issues its a great mod for boost applications IMO
Old 12-27-2008, 08:33 PM
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meth is good stuff.......never leave home without it if you're boosted.

Heck, this season we're actually researching meth on the road race NA cars to let us run more compression and stick with pump vs. needing a race gas mix...

but for boost......if you wanna push the envelope you're pissin in the wind without it.
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